Is this the best rod for cast iron?? I have an arm from a 12 inch band saw to get welded.
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sardine
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No, pure nickel is. Ferronickel cheaper but not as good.
I have a box of dissimilar 3.2, oerlicon I think, if anyone wants to buy small quantities.
Bill Edwards
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I'm not sure about 308, but 312 is certainly OK. If you haven't any, i'd be using whatever was to hand though, not buying specially. But if you've got them, you can't go wrong.
Bill Edwards
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Make sure to keep the part very cool - i.e cool enough to keep your hand on it. Peen the weld as it cools.
yeah was just wondering for future really , might be worth having a handful around just incase , dont think ill ever need 4kg
Which is why I might farm it out...
Bill Edwards
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My method has never failed!
The killer is heat - heating or cooling movement is what causes the cracks, so you avoid it. Some like to heat it, weld it hot and cool it slowly, but you have to slow the cooling down in the process and can't peen it, so it's not ideal. Naturally, using the correct rods is a must.
The killer is heat - heating or cooling movement is what causes the cracks, so you avoid it. Some like to heat it, weld it hot and cool it slowly, but you have to slow the cooling down in the process and can't peen it, so it's not ideal. Naturally, using the correct rods is a must.
So to clarify what is your method and what rods. Lol
Bill Edwards
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The rods are ones for cast iron, which have a high nickel content. As usual with rods, it's best getting decent ones as it helps - I just get them from my local welding supplier. They're not particularly cheap rods, approaching £2 each.
Prepare the metal if needed - i.e drill holes at the end of cracks, vee out etc.
Do a short run of weld, and when I say short don't allow the part to get too hot to hold.
Chip off the slag, and with the chipping hammer tap the weld as it cools. Once it's lost enough heat, weld a little more, peen, weld, peen and so on.
On parts I'm not to bothered about I'll put less effort into peening, but something important like an engine block gets peened properly.
This is for cast iron to cast iron. If welding cast iron to steel there are different rods available, I have no idea what the difference is. I have used ordinary rods for this with success on parts where failure wouldn't have been too bad, but it's not guaranteed to be very good.
Prepare the metal if needed - i.e drill holes at the end of cracks, vee out etc.
Do a short run of weld, and when I say short don't allow the part to get too hot to hold.
Chip off the slag, and with the chipping hammer tap the weld as it cools. Once it's lost enough heat, weld a little more, peen, weld, peen and so on.
On parts I'm not to bothered about I'll put less effort into peening, but something important like an engine block gets peened properly.
This is for cast iron to cast iron. If welding cast iron to steel there are different rods available, I have no idea what the difference is. I have used ordinary rods for this with success on parts where failure wouldn't have been too bad, but it's not guaranteed to be very good.
