- Thread starter scarecrow
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Ok limited success with the camera just couldn't get the angles I wanted, or it blurred but this one came out quite well, showing the idea of up hand arc welding......
bellow the blue line is slag removed above is slag un chipped, this was weld as 3F (vertical fillet progrostion)....with a 6013 bohler Phoenix, at around 100amps, (this would be two hot for learning on) DCEP....
the two red lines show where I slightly paused, the center is not as important as the edges, imagine 2 lines one on each plate and work to that, it is very important to keep the arc length, and lead angle (angle of rod to work) correct, the arc needs to be as tight as possible to wards the Edges, with virtually Nil lead angle, this is lengthened as you draw the rod across the work, a common problem that I have to check myself from doing is to increase the lead angle as you work up the plate this is because your not lifting your shoulder, it is vital you keep your arm parallel to the plate as you progress....
A Christmas tree movement is common, but I use a more circular motion, Its preference thats all, I also as I have a screw type holder (rather than horrible clamps)and bend my rods to suit the position of the weld (again prefrance)...
Don't rush and progress slowly along the joint, when you start to get them correct the slag will look grizzly, but just fall away from the weld......
second picture is the same joint slag removed, not a great picture im afraid...
HTH
bellow the blue line is slag removed above is slag un chipped, this was weld as 3F (vertical fillet progrostion)....with a 6013 bohler Phoenix, at around 100amps, (this would be two hot for learning on) DCEP....
the two red lines show where I slightly paused, the center is not as important as the edges, imagine 2 lines one on each plate and work to that, it is very important to keep the arc length, and lead angle (angle of rod to work) correct, the arc needs to be as tight as possible to wards the Edges, with virtually Nil lead angle, this is lengthened as you draw the rod across the work, a common problem that I have to check myself from doing is to increase the lead angle as you work up the plate this is because your not lifting your shoulder, it is vital you keep your arm parallel to the plate as you progress....
A Christmas tree movement is common, but I use a more circular motion, Its preference thats all, I also as I have a screw type holder (rather than horrible clamps)and bend my rods to suit the position of the weld (again prefrance)...
Don't rush and progress slowly along the joint, when you start to get them correct the slag will look grizzly, but just fall away from the weld......
second picture is the same joint slag removed, not a great picture im afraid...
HTH
irondarren
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demonwelder
New Member
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- 1
We used to do alot of capping with them, They were great rods
I also used these rods at college excelent rods for raw beginners good finish easy to use and still available "MUREX MIRROSPEED". Every one seems to call them "mirrorspeed" including me untill I googled then dug out an old pack of rods to check who made them. I'm new to the forum so I this will help anyone else who is looking for an easy to use rod. It's a long time since the original message was posted hope this helps.n
HOUNDMAGNET
Member
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- 143
The murex vodex rods are brilliant and i would say almost "idiot proof"!....i use them whenever i have to do any arc welding.
we once tried the machine mart rods and they were appauling.The arc wouldnt maintain properly and the slag spatter was the worst i have seen,i managed to trap slag in the weld which i dont do with the vodex rods.
for anyone doing any oxy acetalyne welding i can offer a tip if you are stuck for a filler rod for mild steel/cast iron.....i was in that position on a job once that needed a bit of brazing work and where i would normally use a c2 rod i actually used a wire coat hanger!!.....the part needing repair was a very lightly loaded support for a machine tool jig positioner of cast iron and 5yrs on it is still in position....i originally done this as a temporary repair to get the machine working again.
we once tried the machine mart rods and they were appauling.The arc wouldnt maintain properly and the slag spatter was the worst i have seen,i managed to trap slag in the weld which i dont do with the vodex rods.
for anyone doing any oxy acetalyne welding i can offer a tip if you are stuck for a filler rod for mild steel/cast iron.....i was in that position on a job once that needed a bit of brazing work and where i would normally use a c2 rod i actually used a wire coat hanger!!.....the part needing repair was a very lightly loaded support for a machine tool jig positioner of cast iron and 5yrs on it is still in position....i originally done this as a temporary repair to get the machine working again.
shenion
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scarecrow
Outstanding in his field
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the first two numbers is the tensile strength of the Rod
The 3rd digit tells you what position the rod is recommended for.
1 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, Overhead.
2 : Flat and Horizontal only.
3 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical Down, Overhead
The last digit tells you about welding current and the coating
1 : DC:ROD+ ................... cellulose sodium
2 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. cellulose potassium
3 : AC or DC:ROD- ............. titania sodium
4 : AC or DC:ROD- or DC:ROD+ .. iron powder titania
5 : DC:ROD+ ................... low hydrogen sodium
6 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. low hydrogen potassium
7 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. iron powder iron oxide
8 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. iron powder low hydrogen
it is usually written on the box which polarity to use and what amps you need to use and also what the rods are best suited for
The 3rd digit tells you what position the rod is recommended for.
1 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, Overhead.
2 : Flat and Horizontal only.
3 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical Down, Overhead
The last digit tells you about welding current and the coating
1 : DC:ROD+ ................... cellulose sodium
2 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. cellulose potassium
3 : AC or DC:ROD- ............. titania sodium
4 : AC or DC:ROD- or DC:ROD+ .. iron powder titania
5 : DC:ROD+ ................... low hydrogen sodium
6 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. low hydrogen potassium
7 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. iron powder iron oxide
8 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. iron powder low hydrogen
it is usually written on the box which polarity to use and what amps you need to use and also what the rods are best suited for
cookie munsta
Member
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- 175
maybe this will help what your looking for is the iso classifications otherwise the difference is the first two no. our tensile strength is in MPa. hope this helps i cannot stress enough the importance of choosing the right stick for the job. know the parent metal and then choose a rod for the application. 2.5mm rods are better for smaller machines, using smaller rods for larger and crucial welds is not advised or easy, but not impossible. get peno and then place welds carefully and and so on, make sure you thoughly remove all slag
shenion
Tool Pack Rat
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- Stone Mountain, GA USA
Ah, cheers Scarecrow.
I didn't know that there actually was some logic behind the AWS codes. Live and learn eh
There is some logic, but it is not complete.
There are a lot of suffixes for variances in the rods. -AC for use on low OCV AC buzz boxes (usually used on 7018). There are other suffixes for things like low-temp, flux options, and some filler metal additives.
The ISO codes are probably more complete, but are much more complicated to read
cookie munsta
Member
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http://www.welding.com.au/products.asp, try this link it is aussie but it does have AWS and ISO numbers and a description of uses. hope it helps, was unable to upload it, last time,
