What are you machining?

[Munkul]

Remember those speed and feed tables are usually generated specifically for CNC production speeds. As Hood says, you don't need speed necessarily to break chips, just an adequate DOC and good feed rate for the insert...

 

[Kram]

Thanks for the explaination m_c,
28mm bar, these are what Im using.

DCET 11T302 L-E UM25 Carbide Inserts for Precision Turning and Small Parts Machining

Carbide Inserts for Precision Turning and Small Parts Machining type DCET 11T302L-E UM25 by Uni-tip Carbide

www.shop-apt.co.uk

DCET 070202 L-E UM25 Carbide Inserts for Precision Turning and Small Parts Machining

Carbide Inserts for Precision Turning and Small Parts Machining type DCET 070202L-E UM25 by Uni-tip Carbide

www.shop-apt.co.uk

Box for the small ones, lost the 11's box, but the new order should arrive tomorrow.

I know depth and feed play a massive part of chip breaking, but I think its the shape of the chip breaker that makes these curl differently - the insert nose isnt trying to twist the chip with the second edge.

 

[Munkul]

Great for harder steels and rough cutting of flame cut or plasma cut steels and they take large amounts of material in one go, basically they are aimed more towards production work where speed is important.

For home use they are more limited unless you machine a lot of rough cut stuff and stand more abuse then tungsten. It comes down to your use and cost, can you justify spending the extra by increasing your speed or improved longevity.

What?! That's crazy talk. None of the above is correct, apart from "For home use they are more limited". You wouldn't choose them for cutting plasma-cut steel unless in a very specialised application.
I'm not an expert so I'll just leave this here

What are the Benefits of Machining with Ceramic Turning or Milling Inserts?

What are the Benefits of Machining with Ceramic Turning or Milling Inserts?

www.cutwel.co.uk

 

[Bullet2012]

Its not crazy at all and you certainly don't know what you are talking about to how about trying some, they work on all manner of things, often better than carbide, on other things they are worse so just another nice addition to have for when they are needed for the type of lathe work I sometimes do.

Cannot wait to see the pictures, bet they are awesome !

 

[My Old Landy]

I made a short video of the first cuts on the Raglan 5 inch. It runs well with the reconfigured motor. I will try the screw cutting gearbox next

 

[Kram]

Ive been making this tool holder and found time to test it. Cant think of anything to turn right now so just a pair of stepped radius grooves to see if it works.

Good finish tho my lathe lacks the rigidity for the full contact radius with this much stickout, I had to finish turn chuck by hand to remove chatter marks. Hoping a shorter peice, cast alu, brass and plastics should manage the full cut ok under power. It makes nice big curls of swarf.

I did expect the rigidity problem as I have it with my HSS concave radius tools.

 

[Brad93]

Ive been making this tool holder and found time to test it. Cant think of anything to turn right now so just a pair of stepped radius grooves to see if it works.

View attachment 331913
Good finish tho my lathe lacks the rigidity for the full contact radius with this much stickout, I had to finish turn chuck by hand to remove chatter marks. Hoping a shorter peice, cast alu, brass and plastics should manage the full cut ok under power. It makes nice big curls of swarf.

I did expect the rigidity problem as I have it with my HSS concave radius tools.

For that size insert you need at least a 20mm square shank tool.

 

[Munkul]

I did expect the rigidity problem as I have it with my HSS concave radius tools.

Even my harrison would chatter a little if I fed it a big radius like that... I think it goes with the territory.

Made 12off collars from mild steel last night, these are sliding door bolt collars, 22mm ID for some nice beefy door bolts.

 

[Kram]

Brass is nice to shape. I looked through old photos trying to find what tool I used last time - it was just a new small HSS bit, no grinding needed.

 

[Richiew]

It's sort of pulley/boss to attach a sanding disc to an electric motor. My latest silly idea is to create a homemade 12" disc sander. There are plenty of videos on youtube showing it done. Most people seem to drill a manufactured pulley to attach a circular MDF board to a motor. I thought I'd make one. It would have been cheaper to buy I think. I had an old bit of steel that had been knocking about for years. I have since priced it up on Ebay and at current silly prices it is 35 quids worth.

The semi finished item is far bigger than it needs to be. It should support the MDF board nicely. Still needs drilling for bolts in the face and a grub screw for the keyway.

The gearbox is knackered on this lathe so it there's no powerfeed.

I wasn't parting that off in the lathe so it went in the bandsaw. A fresh blade was used and still took an age to cut. The face got tidied up afterwards.

The keyway broach is from Amadeal. I made the bushing guide myself. I ran the broach in from both ends as the pulley was deeper than the bushing. I needed to add an extra shim to get the keyway deep enough to fit onto the motor.

That concentric ring will be my bolt circle.

I checked the teeth on the broach afterwards and can't see any wear.

That white cable is getting replaced.

 

[My Old Landy]

It's sort of pulley/boss to attach a sanding disc to an electric motor. My latest silly idea is to create a homemade 12" disc sander. There are plenty of videos on youtube showing it done. Most people seem to drill a manufactured pulley to attach a circular MDF board to a motor. I thought I'd make one. It would have been cheaper to buy I think. I had an old bit of steel that had been knocking about for years. I have since priced it up on Ebay and at current silly prices it is 35 quids worth.

The semi finished item is far bigger than it needs to be. It should support the MDF board nicely. Still needs drilling for bolts in the face and a grub screw for the keyway.

View attachment 337636

View attachment 337637

The gearbox is knackered on this lathe so it there's no powerfeed.

View attachment 337638

I wasn't parting that off in the lathe so it went in the bandsaw. A fresh blade was used and still took an age to cut. The face got tidied up afterwards.

View attachment 337639

The keyway broach is from Amadeal. I made the bushing guide myself. I ran the broach in from both ends as the pulley was deeper than the bushing. I needed to add an extra shim to get the keyway deep enough to fit onto the motor.

That concentric ring will be my bolt circle.

View attachment 337646

I checked the teeth on the broach afterwards and can't see any wear.

View attachment 337653

View attachment 337652




That white cable is getting replaced.
View attachment 337651

It is far more rewarding making it yourself! That looks superb

 

[MattF]

Give your Henry a wipe & polish. He looks dejected.

 

[Richiew]

Give your Henry a wipe & polish. He looks dejected.

Just as well you cant see the weld spatter on Ole Henry then. He gets more attention than any other tool in the garage.

 

[MattF]

Just as well you cant see the weld spatter on Ole Henry then.

You're an animal.

 

[dobbslc]

Worse than a painters radio...

 

[RichardM]

Give your Henry a wipe & polish. He looks dejected.

Oh, I don't know, he's still got a smile

 

[Richiew]

Three equally spaced punch marks set out with a set of dividers just peaking into shot on the left-hand side.

Everything drilled and tapped to m10 by 1.5 mm to keep drill changes to a minimum. The motor bearings got a shot of grease too. I am being kind to all the inanimate objects today. The pulley is mounted on the motor back to front for display purposes only. It is the prettier side. I ran the motor up under power and everything seems smooth. It didn't try to walk off the workbench or anything, so that's a win.

Most importantly, and to keep the RSPCH off my back, Henry got a rub down with a paper towel or two. He lives on the dusty concrete floor so there's no getting away from it. Looks happier today though. I think he secretly likes the attention.

 

[Dcal]

A few days ago I decided to have a go at making a pipe jaw for a Swinden vice I got on the forum.
I’ve got a Boxford and a shaper to that’s what I used.
I’m sure there are much better ways but it kept me amused for far longer than it should.

The jaw is only about 70mm long by 40 wide but the radius of the gripping section is about 60mm.
My Boxford is 4.5 inch throw so I need every bit of it.

Anyway, plan of attack was to make a fly cutter the right diameter.
Started with a off cut of plate and some 36mm bar.
Turned the bar and welded it to the disc.

Then welded a cheap 12mm indexable lathe tool to the steel disc.
I was going to make clamps to hold it but didn't bother in the end.
I did have to grind a bit of relief to the lathe tool to stop it hitting the cross slide.

For the jaw I cut down an off cut of 12mm plate and welded a 12mm bar to it so I could clamp it in a quick change tool holder.
That allowed me to set it up in the lathe.
It was more than a little unbalanced (the lathe was trying to walk out the door) but I slowed it down a bit and it worked OK.
I could have added a bit of weight for balance but again didn't bother.

That worked out better than I imagined

For cutting the serations I set it up in the shaper and was able to adjust the head to the radius of the jaw

I used a 12mm indexable lathe tool with a 60 degree insert.
I tried to follow the serrations on the other jaw, but my eyesight wasn’t up to it, so I just used 2 degrees steps and it worked OK (should have been closer to 1.5) but again the resolution of the marks on the shaper (or my eyesight) wasn't up to it.

Got it to the final size with a mixiture of the shaper and hand filing.

Drilled and countersunk a couple of holes and turned down the heads on a couple of M8 set screws and job done

Just need to get some steel I can harden and do it all over again,

Anybody know what I need or where I could get it?

 

[Seadog]

9" of 3"x1/2" gauge plate will cost £30 from M-Machine, plus postage.

M-Machine Engineering and Fabrication.

 

[Dcal]

Thanks @Seadog
Could be an expensive jaw.

What should I be looking for?
Tool steel, 01, 02, silver steel?
Would en24 be any use?