What have I bought? migatronic 200 mono...?

[Robotstar5]

I agree 63A would be overkill, go with 32A as long as you have 32A max mcb (and wiring to suit) feeding it.

 

[Gareth J]

Update:
Got 32A sockets, 10mm^2 wire and a 40A trip in the main fuseboard (fortunately nearby).

It welds great. Even on CO2. Also got a roll of 1mm wire and new tips/shrouds. The only issue is I can't get the feed roller off to flip it around/replace it with a 1mm one. It's on 0.8 though and seems to feed ok.

Welded up a friends woodburner and at 5mm plate it was about right on warp factor 9. Turned it all the way to 11 to weld up a little contraption made of some RSJ offcuts and it's bonkers.

This one's a keeper

 

[Tony Jackson]

... even on the lowest setting, I'm going to struggle on bodywork. I think that's why the garage I bought it from was selling.

Something I noticed in use; the voltage gauge hangs after you have stopped welding and there is a small spark/arc if you touch the tip to the work. After the spark the voltage dips back down. Normal? Problem?

Anything I should do in terms of servicing this beast?
The circuit board issues; any preventative maintenance I can do? Not sure when it was made, but its certainly not new and looks to have seen some work...

Migatronics usually have very low minimum current settings. Mine (180 MXE) goes down to 20 amps. Worth checking before you assume it won't do this.

There is a circuit diagram for the early 180 which is based on discrete components. Sent to me by a member, and I've cleaned it up a bit to make it more legible. Should tell you most of what your PCB comprises - even the later, i.c.-based types share a logic in the way they are designed.

From your serial number 80140125 I think the date of the machine is 14 Jan 1980 - I'm not sure whether it was machine no. 25 made that day?

Best regards, T.

 

[Wallace]

That looks like a Parvalux motor on the wirefeed, probably wouldn't miss a beat feeding 2.5mm wire!

 

[Gareth J]

Migatronics usually have very low minimum current settings. Mine (180 MXE) goes down to 20 amps. Worth checking before you assume it won't do this.

There is a circuit diagram for the early 180 which is based on discrete components. Sent to me by a member, and I've cleaned it up a bit to make it more legible. Should tell you most of what your PCB comprises - even the later, i.c.-based types share a logic in the way they are designed.

From your serial number 80140125 I think the date of the machine is 14 Jan 1980 - I'm not sure whether it was machine no. 25 made that day?

Best regards, T.

Thanks Tony, Yea, I got muddled up with which end of the pointer is pointing to the setting, I thought #8 was #2! I've not used it on anything light yet, but will keep the 0.6mm roll for that job that will come up at some point for sure. Wish I'd realised this before I spent a small fortune upgrading the wiring in the shed. I went for a new roll of armored 10mm^2 for the supply but could have gotten away with a second hand length of cable I had tucked away... oh well, at least its sorted now and I've got a sensible supply for the compressor too.

I'd be grateful for a copy of that circuit diagram if you have it, sounds like it could come in useful if I get any issues...

Where in N.Devon are you? Only just across the border in Kilkhampton here..

 

[Gareth J]

PS. If anyone's thinking of dismantling a 12 position rotary switch 'cos "it's a bit stiff", think very, very hard. About a billion, microscopic, spring loaded components are waiting to propell themselves into forgotten corners of your workshop

 

[mike 109444]

PS. If anyone's thinking of dismantling a 12 position rotary switch 'cos "it's a bit stiff", think very, very hard. About a billion, microscopic, spring loaded components are waiting to propell themselves into forgotten corners of your workshop

Even if you find the parts you are going to have some fun getting it back together AND working! Another member on forum done same and then he had the fun of trying to find a replacement (££'s)

 

[Bill Edwards]

PS. If anyone's thinking of dismantling a 12 position rotary switch 'cos "it's a bit stiff", think very, very hard. About a billion, microscopic, spring loaded components are waiting to propell themselves into forgotten corners of your workshop

But did you get it together and achieve the goal of making it less stiff?

 

[Gareth J]

Yea, its back together and working (although not tried welding yet...) Lost the position of one of the 6 or so cams on the cam shaft but guessed its position based on the pattern of the others. There is a massive potential for it all to go wrong