- Thread starter rcx132
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dobbslc
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As long as they don't have MCG printed on them you'll be ok....
Depends on lots of things now like is it wired in twin and earth concealed in a wall at a depth of less then 50mm or being run in a metal stud wall, that still requires a 30ma RCBO. 3rd amendment. If it's a new installation.
Depends on lots of things now like is it wired in twin and earth concealed in a wall at a depth of less then 50mm or being run in a metal stud wall, that still requires a 30ma RCBO. 3rd amendment. If it's a new installation.
brightspark
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as u say it depends on a lot of things. being in a garage though and its a compressor its hardly likely for the cable to be buried in a stud wall
more like clipped direct to the wall or wired using conduit or mini trunking
rcx132
Philip
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I won the compressor, I got it for £110 on ebay because it was badly described and listed as spares or repair. The garage selling it aren't sure whats up but reckon they were told it's a minor fault. Will see once I've picked it up. It's a Clarke 18 CFM 200 litre, 4 HP.
Wallace
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Hope it works out, had a nose on EBay but couldn't find it.
rcx132
Philip
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Title says it's 3phase. But the model plate identifies it as single phase, called garage, they said single phase. I thought that even if it's the motor or pump gone I can replace and still be quids in.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-SE...r-Compressor-SPARES-OR-REPAIRS-/272715492053?
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clarke-SE...r-Compressor-SPARES-OR-REPAIRS-/272715492053?
rcx132
Philip
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Huh, not even... Someone fitted new pressure switch (but fitted a 175psi switch instead of 145 psi), but didn't know how to plumb in the pressure unloader and left it. Was worried that the 175 PSI switch could have blown the motor, but the motor is fine, just fired it up.
This compressor is cast iron, it's a much better noise than my aluminium Sealey compressor. I was always told cast iron is the way to go.
Going to order the right switch and find some fittings to get that unloader plumbed in.
This compressor is cast iron, it's a much better noise than my aluminium Sealey compressor. I was always told cast iron is the way to go.
Going to order the right switch and find some fittings to get that unloader plumbed in.
brightspark
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the pressure switches are adjustable for whatever u set it to. a cheapo 12 quid one will fit I use one on mine but have wired it through a contactor so that the switch contacts just operate the coil not the main motor load https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_...1313&_nkw=compressor+pressure+switch&_sacat=0
rcx132
Philip
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Ok I will see of I can adjust it down to 145 psi.
WorkshopChris
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Have a look at http://www.pipefittingsdirect.co.uk/contents/en-uk/BSP Identification1.pdf
This gives the size in mm you are looking for.
rcx132
Philip
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Thanks but I also need to identify the TPI don't I? I looked on ebay, all the imperial thread guages are 55 degree Whitworth. Are these ok for meauring BSP, UNF, NF, NPT, and other imperial threads? I know very little about imperial threads.... my age shows... And how do I tell which of the imperial systems (BSP, UNF, NPT, Whitworth etc) it's using?
WorkshopChris
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To be honest its not something i often think about most of the time a quick look will tel you the type then grab a fitting to make sure.
Most compressor fittings will be bsp eithre taper or paralle.
Most compressor fittings will be bsp eithre taper or paralle.
rtbcomp
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Is the unloader pipe still connected to the non-return valve? Is it a copper or a plastic unloader pipe? If it's copper it will be an olive fitting, if plastic it'll be a push-fit. You could very well have a push-fit on the switch and a copper pipe on the machine. Have you got the original switch?
rcx132
Philip
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I managed to solve it. I had some spare BSP to push fittings, so I ran the unloader in poly fuel pipe.
I've adjusted the 175psi switch to switch off at 150psi (as per this compressor spec). Just got to change the oil, wire in a 20A isolation switch and fit a 1/2 valve on the outlet.
This cast iron compressor is a lot quieter than my aluminium one. Both belt driven. I'm going to set the pressure switches up so that this one kicks in first as it's quieter. If it cant cope and pressure keeps falling then the Sealey 14 CFM will kick in.
So I've got 32 CFM now. That gives 20 CFM free air delivery (deducted 15% for wear + tear), which seems right to me. A hungry tool uses 17.5 CFM. A mask plus spray gun uses 18 CFM (10 CFM mask + ~8 CFM gun?). So gives a bit of space for the compressors not to be at 100% duty as well.
rcx132
Philip
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Is this right? I can't find where the outlet is for the reguator. The compressor came with the outlet plumbed into one of the four ports on the pressure switch, but was that correct? If there's air being drawn at the pressure switch then it will give false/unsteady reading on the pressure switch, causing it not to work properly.
I connected to the end of the tank as there was a valve there (broken handle so fitted new gas valve). But that seems like a silly place, sticking out like that.
Thanks to every one for the help.
One more thing, is there a fused outlet I can wire into the ring mains? I can only find very expensive fused isolation switches, or cheap ones. I bought this, thinking that round thing in the corner is a high amp fuse, but no, it's the outlet for the flex.
I connected to the end of the tank as there was a valve there (broken handle so fitted new gas valve). But that seems like a silly place, sticking out like that.
Thanks to every one for the help.
One more thing, is there a fused outlet I can wire into the ring mains? I can only find very expensive fused isolation switches, or cheap ones. I bought this, thinking that round thing in the corner is a high amp fuse, but no, it's the outlet for the flex.
rtbcomp
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You've got the outlet in the right place, I've used an elbow to reduce the sticky-out-ness. It's quite common for low volume outputs to be taken from a port on the switch, usually via a mini-regulator, but I don't like that practice. These larger compressors don't usually include a regulator.
The best place for the regulator to be connected is as close as possible to where you're working.
The best place for the regulator to be connected is as close as possible to where you're working.
