25 year old Alfa 75 back from the brink (hopefully)

graffian · Oct 10, 2021

That tape is probably fineline tape. Don't cheap out on it, unless someone tells you that brand is OK.

I used to use Frisket a lot. It's fine with basecoat, activated basecoat and gold size, I might have squirted
solid 2 pack though it, I can't remember.
Frisket is really meant for arty things.
I only found masking film a few years ago. I was painting some treader frames and thinking about the
days I was going to be spending cutting frisket, I bought a vinyl cutter;-)
I think masking film is much better than frisket for me. Normal vinyl will probably be to sticky and leave goo?

I flick any jaggies off with a tack rag or a gold leaf brush.

Dcal · Oct 16, 2021

graffian said:
That tape is probably fineline tape. Don't cheap out on it, unless someone tells you that brand is OK.

I used to use Frisket a lot. It's fine with basecoat, activated basecoat and gold size, I might have squirted
solid 2 pack though it, I can't remember.
Frisket is really meant for arty things.
I only found masking film a few years ago. I was painting some treader frames and thinking about the
days I was going to be spending cutting frisket, I bought a vinyl cutter;-)
I think masking film is much better than frisket for me. Normal vinyl will probably be to sticky and leave goo?

I flick any jaggies off with a tack rag or a gold leaf brush.

The Frisket has arrived so I will try it out.
It is very thin so might not work, but if you don't try you won't learn.

What masking film do you use?

graffian · Oct 16, 2021

I use some greyish stuff called Aslan, no idea if there's any other identifier. It came from Doro Tape[?]
Clear masking is often harder to place and see the placement is perfect.
You don't want to sticky a whatever you call the tape you put over the masking after weeding.

Frisket is really an art product, it's very low tack and you need to be pretty gentle with it.

minimutly · Oct 16, 2021

Dcal said:
The Frisket has arrived so I will try it out.
It is very thin so might not work, but if you don't try you won't learn.

What masking film do you use?

Hey @Dcal , how’s things - you got back to scraping since the course? I’ve done plenty....

Myles1970 · Sep 30, 2022

Dcal said:
And panted

View attachment 177266

And the inside of the doors

View attachment 177264

I made a jig to hold the doors while I worked on and painted them.
It worked fine, if a bit wobbly, but OK for the job.

View attachment 177265

What condition was the original seam sealer in? You didn't have to scrape it off or open up the folds in the skins? Just wondering as on mine the sealer has dried out and cracked and i'm thinking that's what i'll have to do ...

Dcal · Sep 30, 2022

Hi Myles, I'll see if I have any better photos of how I've applied it.

The seam sealer was mostly in good condition but I had to remove it where there was corrosion or where it had been damaged.
I mostly just replaced what was needed.

I find applying seam sealing to replicate OE difficult.
You have one chance because the finish from the gun is what you have, if you tool it later it won't look right.
If you mess it up you have to clean it all off and start again.
I find it's easier to do full panels because getting the bead size and shape to match existing is tricky.

I have a proper air driven sealing gun that uses the foil sausages.
A standard skeleton gun will work however its harder to get a ripple free finish. Battery powered ones are available but I haven't used one.

No matter what gun you have make sure the sealer is warm and cut the nozzle to give the bead profile you want.
Practice on a piece of cardboard or similar and use your "nozzle" hand to keep the edge distance consistent.
Get everything set up so you are comfortable to give youself half a chance.
When you are happy crack on, but have plenty of cloths and panel wipe handy for if (when) it all goes wrong.

Some people probably find it really easy, but I'm not one of them.

Myles1970 · Sep 30, 2022

Cheers Damian, I'm no fan of it either. I have the bootlid to do as well as both doors and obviously I'll need to get them as neat as possible, but not necessarily to OEM spec.. Lashings of masking tape so

But you were happy enough that the bit of the frames sandwiched between the folds on the door skins were solid enough?

Dcal · Sep 30, 2022

Yes, there isn't normally sealer between the faces as far as I can tell.
I prime the areas before applying the sealer and then try to apply a nice bead to cover the joint.

I haven't found any decent photos yet. I used light grey primer and light grey sealer.
The lack of contrast and my lack of photographic skills means there is no real detail to show.
I'll keep looking

Myles1970 · Sep 30, 2022

I was thinking that if, as in my case, the seam sealer was dried out/cracked, that the capillary action would have wicked any moisture inside the folds on the door or boot skins. Hence the likelihood of corrosion within.
That could mean opening up the folds and possibly separating the skin from the frame

... work-hardening and wavey door skins ahead. I guess I'm just going to have to suck it and see

Dcal · Sep 30, 2022

Have a look at the repair I did on the bonnet.
Same seam detail as a door and the lip needed to be replaced.
A few post later shows the seam sealing but it's not a great photo.

If the seams are ok I would just remove as much rust as possible epoxy prime and seam seal.
If you can get at it, seam seal the inside as well and / or inject wax to keep the moisture out.
If it's full of rust you will probably need to open it up but I'd just do what's necessary.
The primer, sealer and wax will do a good job of slowing the march of corrosion.