brightspark
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soldering them is no good it stops the strands flexing and snaps fairly quick best crimped and heatshrink sleeving over them to give support and flexibility over a larger aeria
It’s not so much the cables breaking down it’s between the lug and the cable. That oxidises.
The process induces incredibly high resistance too and is subject to repeated stress on the lugs.
what i do is get some flex and strip the insulation off it and wrap it round the cable end if its not a tight fit in the lug then crimp itThat's down to poor crimping, the lug should match the cable size and the crimp tool should form lug tightly around the cable, if you sectioned the joint there should be no voids which is what creates high resistance.
What do you mean sectioned?That's down to poor crimping, the lug should match the cable size and the crimp tool should form lug tightly around the cable, if you sectioned the joint there should be no voids which is what creates high resistance.
What do you mean sectioned?
Going to have to give that a go and see what the Chinese crimper does, won't be as easy to see as that diagram due to the strand sizes but will still be interesting. I cut one off a cable the other day, not sure if I threw it in the skip or not but I will have a look and see.A different type of lug, but it shows what to look for, no voids between the strands once crimped.
View attachment 269369
thats how i came about the 10mm-16 lugs that i use, bought some from here and there until i found one that looked good inside.Going to have to give that a go and see what the Chinese crimper does, won't be as easy to see as that diagram due to the strand sizes but will still be interesting. I cut one off a cable the other day, not sure if I threw it in the skip or not but I will have a look and see.
Fancy buying some 70mm onesIve always used the heavy copper knock-ons, squat them down in the press.... if using the lesser flimsy lugs, do them in the press with a bit of tooling to squash in the lug.
The lugs outlast the actual claamps half the time.
https://www.spawelding.com/90mm-copper-knock-on-lug.html
I have the cheapo hydraulic type and one of these hammer type, you just cant beat these manual crimpers at times.
It rattles around in the tool box just for that day....
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Battery-...-/383807570985?_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49292
I've got one of these I use for battery leads on tractors and trucks. I paid quite a bit more than that though. But it looks the same
That's like 1000kg.To give you an idea of the scale of the welding we are putting down a ton of wire in 48 hours.
2200lbs?That's like 1000kg.
No spots on me
To give you an idea of the scale of the welding we are putting down a ton of wire in 48 hours.
Triple head single wire.Twin wire sub arc?
Fairly blanket statement there, as I mentioned in my post I've seen both fail equally regularly and my previous firm did a lot of extensive testing and trialling. We whittled down the crimp collection to a couple of dozen but the tooling costs still hit substantially into 6 figures (bordering on 7) so you can't really say we didn't use the proper crimps.soldering them is no good it stops the strands flexing and snaps fairly quick best crimped and heatshrink sleeving over them to give support and flexibility over a larger aeria
No its Durite I bought it from an auto-electrical place I think it was about £40 +vat probably made in the same factory as these ones.Snap-on or Mac????