7018 rods

[E T]

Going on my past experience, a couple days sat on the radiator makes them far better to use than when they've been sat in the workshop for months.
A rod oven would be better, but given how infrequently I actually use 7018 (or any rod for that matter), I can't really justify an oven.

For our home tinkering it doesn't really matter if there's moisture in the flux. That's important for coded work.
Just store them in a dry place. I store mine in an old fridge with some desiccant. The humidity inside the fridge stays within 40-50%.
But about a year ago I did get a second hand rod oven cheap from somebody who was moving shop and getting all new stuff.
Now when I have a fair bit of welding to do I put a pack in the oven beforehand, but for little welding jobs I don't bother.
You can really notice the difference though, when they have been on 300 degrees for an our or two.

 

[Memmeddu]

For our home tinkering it doesn't really matter if there's moisture in the flux. That's important for coded work.
Just store them in a dry place. I store mine in an old fridge with some desiccant. The humidity inside the fridge stays within 40-50%.
But about a year ago I did get a second hand rod oven cheap from somebody who was moving shop and getting all new stuff.
Now when I have a fair bit of welding to do I put a pack in the oven beforehand, but for little welding jobs I don't bother.
You can really notice the difference though, when they have been on 300 degrees for an our or two.

The downside is that the flux will be more prone to fractures and it can fall from the rod .
I'd like to find one myself too .
But for critical applications I do have many Esab vacpack in storage.
So I don't really need it but you know there are some more useless stuff I've bought which starts to feel the loneliness

 

[denlow60]

Putting them on a radiator is going to do little to nothing. If the bucket or component is hardox might be worth grabbing a vac pac or a gentle pre heat

Hardox is not welded with 7018

 

[Erie Fred]

Hardox is not welded with 7018

Begs the question, so what is Hardox welded with ?
And which Hardox ?

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Hardox is not welded with 7018

Hardox is welded with 7018, it is a recommended consumable type. I’m not sure where your getting your info from

 

[denlow60]

here are certain types of hardox

 

[denlow60]

 

[m_c]

Hardox is welded with 7018, it is a recommended consumable type. I’m not sure where your getting your info from

I think it's going to depend on the application.
7018 is aimed at low/medium carbon steels, whereas Hardox is more of a high carbon steel.

However, something like a bucket is more likely to be using Hardox for cutting/protection edges, so the structural strength of the relevant welds isn't going to be too critical, compared to a critical high carbon steel structure.

Anyway, I'm only welding a JCB front bucket.
I'm not entirely sure what they're made off, but it's some form of carbon/sprung steel, and the MIG with standard wire, or Arc with 6013 rods just spatter and results in a horrendous weld with no penetration, yet 7018 welds it very nicely.

This will be it's third rebuild, as it gets a hard life, and it's worn through and torn in a few places again.

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Please see.

That is for 400/450. Above 500 I’d personally use a stainless consumable

 

[m_c]

Please see.
View attachment 427544
That is for 400/450. Above 500 I’d personally use a stainless consumable

So 7018 is recommended.
Although I should probably look at suitable MIG wire, but a 5kg box of 7018 is a lot cheaper than a 15kg reel that will only get used occasionally.

 

[denlow60]

Please see.
View attachment 427544
That is for 400/450. Above 500 I’d personally use a stainless consumable

I would like to know where this table comes from?

 

[Arclikeharrypotter]

Here is the link. Straight from the manufacturer.

https://www.ssab.com/-/media/files/en/hardox/welding-guide-for-welding-hardox-wear-plate-103en-v2-2020.pdf?m=20210113073630

 

[zeppelin builder]

having welded professionaly for decades i would always recomend a pre heat even on fillets water can be lurking between edges or between plates which produces steam and gives porosity
150c typicaly.
on exotics a hot air gun can warm damp wet butt welds if needed

 

[Memmeddu]

Pre heat can help reducing distortion too , cause the thermal shock is lower and an heated piece takes less heat from a weld joint which cooling slower and with the piece ,moves slower and far less than on cold pieces.
That's helps with internal stresses into the joint too.

 

[denlow60]

Please see.
View attachment 427544
That is for 400/450. Above 500 I’d personally use a stainless consumable

My company does not weld with these electrodes
because they do not reach the yield point.

 

[Memmeddu]

My company does not weld with these electrodes
because they do not reach the yield point.

Stainless is good with torcional resistance,we use at work when we have to remove broken studs and anti-thief bolts stuck on wheels.
But I don't think it's any good with welding a bucket.
Starting from the fact that we use just normal ER70S6 Wire in spray arc or E71T1 Flux core.
And they are actually mig welded at the factory with carbon steel wire.
Most people use E7018 when they have to stick weld any kind of equipment in the field (with exceptions of course) me included .
Stainless is used on buckets to make the boundary layer between the cutting edges and the hard facing beads .
It would be not worth money wise to use stainless to weld the entire bucket and cutting edges .
Everything on a bucket can be cut using oxyfuel so another point which sustain my opinion (repeat my opinion only ,I speak like one who repair these almost on a daily basis).
I cannot see why to use stainless to weld a cutting edge on a bucket .
Preheat of course is a must to prevent cracking but really not need in practice ,at least for the kind of repair I'm obligated to do on the cheap side.

 

[Gingle]

Tried 7018 today,nice weld the only thing I found is the flux tends to cover the rod after a weld.After every weld .Gone back to the good old 6013 rod

 

[Brad93]

My company does not weld with these electrodes
because they do not reach the yield point.

You should use an undermatching consumable for hardox

 

[Brad93]

Tried 7018 today,nice weld the only thing I found is the flux tends to cover the rod after a weld.After every weld .Gone back to the good old 6013 rod

Yeah that's because you get a cup, and that then solidifies and a by-product is protecting the hot end of the electrode.

Break that with your thumb before starting the next weld.

 

[Brad93]

Stainless is good with torcional resistance,we use at work when we have to remove broken studs and anti-thief bolts stuck on wheels.
But I don't think it's any good with welding a bucket.
Starting from the fact that we use just normal ER70S6 Wire in spray arc or E71T1 Flux core.
And they are actually mig welded at the factory with carbon steel wire.
Most people use E7018 when they have to stick weld any kind of equipment in the field (with exceptions of course) me included .
Stainless is used on buckets to make the boundary layer between the cutting edges and the hard facing beads .
It would be not worth money wise to use stainless to weld the entire bucket and cutting edges .
Everything on a bucket can be cut using oxyfuel so another point which sustain my opinion (repeat my opinion only ,I speak like one who repair these almost on a daily basis).
I cannot see why to use stainless to weld a cutting edge on a bucket .
Preheat of course is a must to prevent cracking but really not need in practice ,at least for the kind of repair I'm obligated to do on the cheap side.

The recommendation @Arclikeharrypotter made for using stainless on hardox 500 plate is because that will mostly remove the chance of cold cracking.

A 309 consumable, or one that is over-alloyed will produce highly ductile, austenitic deposits.

It also can remove the need for any preheat, which in some situations is a consideration. For example, welding to Hadfield steels, insitu plant where preheating is not possible or permitted, near hoses and active services.