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Richard.
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I don’t understand
If you believe that to be the issue why are you not fixing it?
It was only after watching a bunch of YouTube vids I realised that's probably what it was.
So I've got the hang of running a line of beads now. Just need to keep practicing that. The next step will be tacking and doing inside/outside corners.
I tried to get the welder settings but I have no idea what the symbols mean lol. I'll try to find the instruction manual...
I did this on some 3mm. No much pentration though.
So I've got the hang of running a line of beads now. Just need to keep practicing that. The next step will be tacking and doing inside/outside corners.
I tried to get the welder settings but I have no idea what the symbols mean lol. I'll try to find the instruction manual...
I did this on some 3mm. No much pentration though.
Been playing around some more. Kept finding I was getting black stuff (soot?) at the start of welds, couldn't understand why. I think turning the penetration (same as cleaning action?) to zero helped. Also set the frequency to 120hz.
Tried to weld some inside corners. The filler kept melting because it was near the arc. Once that happens it just doesn't want to stick to the weld. Dabbing it just balls it up further until I'm left with a massive blob hanging off the filler rod, then the work piece melts away. FML. It's probably because I'm trying to weld at some dodgy angles, haven't really got any fixtures to prop it up or to clamp to. Any tips?
Tried to weld some inside corners. The filler kept melting because it was near the arc. Once that happens it just doesn't want to stick to the weld. Dabbing it just balls it up further until I'm left with a massive blob hanging off the filler rod, then the work piece melts away. FML. It's probably because I'm trying to weld at some dodgy angles, haven't really got any fixtures to prop it up or to clamp to. Any tips?
addjunkie
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Sit down, get comfortable, support the cable around your shoulder or something. Try to rest your for arms on something to keep as steady and comfortable as you can. Get a few chunks of metal to support what your welding, it also reduces heat soak on small practice pieces
In the nicest possible way I think you’re trying to run before you can walk, keep practising running beads until you’re getting consistently good ones every time then move on to butt joints and do the same then fillets, corners etc. Make sure everything is clean and fits well, you’ll get there in the end.
Cheers. I have to stand as i haven't got a chair in the garage. But I try to get as comfortable as possible. Sometimes I put a bit of tube in the vice so I can lean on it, and I've got a decent sized 4-5mm steel sheet on the bench. I've got the cable hooked to a bungee which is hanging from the roof which helps a lot. I need to find some blocks to prop things up with, that would really help.
Mate. I'm well up for that!
Agreed. I'm improving... Slowly. I was playing around with the settings a lot today. I've been running lots of beads to the point where I ran out of sheet to practice on.
Oh by the way, what's the best way to cut sheet with straight edges? I'd love a guillotine but there's no way I could fit one in!
Don't think he's going down any time soon but I'll see if I can persuade him after a few tins of wife beater lol.
Don't have a plasma cutter. Slitting disc takes forever
Richard.
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Plasmas and grinders are disastrous for producing an edge to weld. You’ll get a very contaminated weld.
It needs to be cut cold and in a mechanical fashion.
I use a throatless shear now all the time. It will cut any shape out I want and takes up no space at all. Shears, nibblers, jigsaws are other suitable methods.
It needs to be cut cold and in a mechanical fashion.
I use a throatless shear now all the time. It will cut any shape out I want and takes up no space at all. Shears, nibblers, jigsaws are other suitable methods.
Jlg
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Also normal steel/inox disks aren't meant for alu they can clog the disc up causeing it to heat up and explodeDon't think he's going down any time soon but I'll see if I can persuade him after a few tins of wife beater lol.
Don't have a plasma cutter. Slitting disc takes forever
This was happening to me...not sure what was causing it most but I set the machine a little higher to get it started and also reduced the torch angle....think too much of the heat was getting directed at the rod rather than the workpiece, making it ball up
I usually jam the earth lead under the vice or somewhere (so,it doesn’t want to get dragged off the bench)and use the earth clamp to keep joints upright or whatever...
Paul.
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Torch needs to be quite steep and with a tight arc when starting the run then lean it back when the pool is established, do not add filler until at least one, but preferably both sides of the joint are liquid, then add the filler to the edge of the molten pool not the arc gap,
The filler rod should be melted by the pool not the arc
This can bee seen in this tutorial video, its stainless but the technique is the same,
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tig-technique/tig-bead.mp4
The filler rod should be melted by the pool not the arc
This can bee seen in this tutorial video, its stainless but the technique is the same,
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/tig-technique/tig-bead.mp4
HughF
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What he said, abrasive disc is a no-no
I find this incredibly difficult when tacking. The pool just isn't large enough to enable me to apply filler. Tilting the torch to get the room to apply the filler just ends up melting the rod, which then blobs up and doesn't like sticking. The pool then rapidly melts away and blows a hole.
