A whole lotta fail in this one

[smashweld]

do you slide the rod in from the side or more from above? you should be able to get the filler to the pool without the torch getting in the way...

I had similar problems (still haven't mastered it...this thread is making me want to go to the workshop now!). Was advised in another thread to go about 25-50% hotter than you weld at when tacking so you get an instant pool, rather than taking ages and heating everything up too much.

 

[Richard.]

Tilting the torch to get the room to apply the filler just ends up melting the rod,

You shouldn’t tilt the torch back when tacking up. This is extending the arc length
You need to practice tacking up.
We covered all this mate. I think you need another session to refresh because your technique is the only thing causing your issues.

 

[hooblah]

Whatever's easier really. Generally from the side though. I find the pool is too small. Hitting it with more amps causes it to blow holes. I'll keep practicing.

 

[hooblah]

You shouldn’t tilt the torch back when tacking up. This is extending the arc length
You need to practice tacking up.
We covered all this mate. I think you need another session to refresh because your technique is the only thing causing your issues.

I'm trying not to. Easier said than done lol. I'm going to keep practicing for now. I need to pick up some more ali as ive run out.

I was also going to buy the cheapest bench grinder I could find for grinding tungstens. An angle grinder isnt cutting it. Reckon this will be ok?
http://www.argos.co.uk/product/4609919

 

[Richard.]

I'm trying not to. Easier said than done lol. I'm going to keep practicing for now. I need to pick up some more ali as ive run out.

I was also going to buy the cheapest bench grinder I could find for grinding tungstens. An angle grinder isnt cutting it. Reckon this will be ok?
http://www.argos.co.uk/product/4609919

Absolutely
It is easier said than done.
Personally I don’t make changes to torch angles or arc length when tacking or welding. I just keep it the same. Here is 4 bits of sheet I’ve cropped off with the shear. Not perfect as it’s a rough crop guess but good enough to get a fit up of less than 0.5mm
Settings are open corner tacked at 98 amps and welded at 70. I just set the amps and floored the pedal.
Inside corner was tacked at 121 and welded at 100.
Balance was 27% for both and frequency was 90hz at both.
No silly scrubbing or over thinking things just relax and use the current. I did not introduce my filler until at least 1 side was pooled up to the point it was almost burning through and this took less than 1 second to happen.

 

[Richard.]

Was advised in another thread to go about 25-50% hotter than you weld at when tacking so you get an instant pool, rather than taking ages and heating everything up too much.

Yes this is sound advice.
50% more is sometimes a little hot particularly on thinner gages or where fit up isn’t quite touching but certainly I’d be tacking up much hotter than I’d seam at.

 

[addjunkie]

Cutting sheet ali sheet I sometimes use a wood cutting bandsaw, works a treat, works well with chunks of billet too, shear works too, never a disk not even an ali disk, far to expensive

 

[Richard.]

I like quiet.
I hate cutting sheets with noisy tools as it vibrates right through the sheet and makes such a racket. The throat less shear is just a wonderful tool for cutting it. You can follow a scribed line to such brilliant accuracy and cut pretty much any shape in one go.

 

[Richard.]

Now as experience grows (and I suggest you leave this for now but just shows you it’s possible) you can accommodate for bad fit up even on relatively thin gage and no backing.
This was 2-3mm gap set. I had no choice but to tack on one side then add filler. Then repeat on the other side and drag the two tacks to meet.
I tacked this at 65amps. I welded it at 55. This was a case where I needed to finger feed the filler to keep up and it did begin to sink after 3inches. I could of kept it under control if I used my pedal and not had to stop when I did. Good Fit up is crucial really but this is just to show you that working with gaps even on alu is doable.

 

[hooblah]

Hmm interesting thanks. I'll go at it again tomorrow.

 

[hooblah]

So I was watching this video on setting balance, and he goes into talking about gas lenses. He was getting a lot of crap in the weld from one brand of gas lens, but on changing it to a CK lens it automatically stopped and the weld looked a lot better.

Thoughts?

 

[smashweld]

interesting point. I kinda assumed the only difference between torch consumables was how long they last

 

[hooblah]

Yeah so did I. But it makes me think this might also be the cause of (one of) my issues too. I'm using an eBay gas lens so who knows.

I'm debating on getting a new torch now lol.

 

[Richard.]

So I was watching this video on setting balance, and he goes into talking about gas lenses. He was getting a lot of crap in the weld from one brand of gas lens, but on changing it to a CK lens it automatically stopped and the weld looked a lot better.

Thoughts?

Doubt it’s your issue.

 

[hooblah]

I was getting a lot of crap in my welds. Especially at the start as evident in the pics I posted. Even you picked up on it when I came to see you!

 

[Richard.]

I was getting a lot of crap in my welds. Especially at the start as evident in the pics I posted. Even you picked up on it when I came to see you!

Not to that extreme.
We got a tiny bit of contamination probably caused by a small gas leak in your set up . By all means change to some quality lenses as it can’t harm but don’t expect amazing changes. My money remains solely on filler been melted accross the arc and not in the pool.
You are getting loads of crap in the weld especially at the start which is classic filler melting across the arc symptoms. As you’ve also demonstrated it happens on difficult joints but not on beads on plate as they appear to be clean and look well. If you had a set up issue this crap would be in every weld accross it’s entire length. Not just at the start and not just on difficult joints.
It would be great if you could just swap the lense and the problem goes away but it’s very unlikely I’m afraid. I would make plans to get some more tuition as you need showing these techniques again to get started on your tacks and runs.
@HughF has made you a great offer
You’d be crackers to turn him down.

 

[hooblah]

I'm pretty sure that I've been melting it into the pool. There may be the odd hiccup, but I've been practicing a fair bit so should have it nailed by now.

Can you recommend any 'decent' gas lenses?
In the mean time i'll give the non gas lens a go, see if that makes any difference.

I'll definitely be taking him up on that offer, and I'll be paying you another visit at some point

I'll post up more pics tomorrow.

 

[Jlg]

I'm pretty sure that I've been melting it into the pool. There may be the odd hiccup, but I've been practicing a fair bit so should have it nailed by now.

Can you recommend any 'decent' gas lenses?
In the mean time i'll give the non gas lens a go, see if that makes any difference.

I'll definitely be taking him up on that offer, and I'll be paying you another visit at some point

I'll post up more pics tomorrow.

Ck are what i use when I need a gas lens but I don't think you need them for Alu I only use mine on exotics and just normal ceramics on every thing else

 

[addjunkie]

A question......can you see what is happening at the weld clearly when you are doing it.

I really struggled until I started wearing my reading glasses to weld. It was like a different person had done the weld

 

[Richard.]

I'm pretty sure that I've been melting it into the pool. There may be the odd hiccup, but I've been practicing a fair bit so should have it nailed by now.

Can you recommend any 'decent' gas lenses?
In the mean time i'll give the non gas lens a go, see if that makes any difference.

I'll definitely be taking him up on that offer, and I'll be paying you another visit at some point

I'll post up more pics tomorrow.

Ck lenses are no1 mate. See @Tom Orrow L for them.
Don’t accept binzel or weldcraft it’s ck you want.