- Thread starter Myles1970
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Myles1970
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First to test fit the two bigger pieces...
...then welding them in. There was a little bit of artistic license involved here as this is not how Toyota intended it. It is, however, very solid
I was going to do the same on the other side, but I'm wondering if it's really necessary to cut out good metal when the inner arch and structure seem perfectly fine. The corrosion on that side seems to be confined to the lip - inner and outer. I may just cut off the outer arch and persuade the inner arch to meet it...
....that would seem to be how frp flares/arches are normally fitted (judging by YT)
...then welding them in. There was a little bit of artistic license involved here as this is not how Toyota intended it. It is, however, very solid
I was going to do the same on the other side, but I'm wondering if it's really necessary to cut out good metal when the inner arch and structure seem perfectly fine. The corrosion on that side seems to be confined to the lip - inner and outer. I may just cut off the outer arch and persuade the inner arch to meet it...
....that would seem to be how frp flares/arches are normally fitted (judging by YT)
Myles1970
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So a little more progress; repair to the pass side rear arch below the level of the bumper... I'd say I'll need to fabric some brackets to mount the bumper here...
Then the chopping of the driver side arch:
This side has the brackets intact, so I may attempt to copy them...
Meantime there's more arch repairs required:
Notice, I decided to reinstall the rear seatbelt mount while waiting for primer to dry...
Then the chopping of the driver side arch:
This side has the brackets intact, so I may attempt to copy them...
Meantime there's more arch repairs required:
Notice, I decided to reinstall the rear seatbelt mount while waiting for primer to dry...
Myles1970
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.....yes, that last image highlights a low spot, about 3mm deep. It's actually a lot bigger than it looks - thanks to my sanding block being too little. It is an oil canning situation due no doubt to the wheel arch welding shenanigans that have gone on previously. I suspect that either side is 'high', as when I put pressure on the left, the low spot pops up. This is concerning as it could possibly cause any filler to crack...
I'm thinking that the application of heat shrinking may tighten it up..... Maybe using a tig torch (I've no access to oxyacetylene and there's a tig here gathering dust)
Again any advice would be welcome and appreciated
I'm thinking that the application of heat shrinking may tighten it up..... Maybe using a tig torch (I've no access to oxyacetylene and there's a tig here gathering dust)
Again any advice would be welcome and appreciated
Dcal
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Have you David Gardiners DVD?
It gives a great explanation on heat shrinking.
What you are trying to achieve is to make the metal thicker again. His method is to heat a high spot red hot, then planish the hot spot so it is flat.
The cool metal surrounding the hot spot stays put and resists movement so the only place for the excess metal to go is within the hot spot so becomes very, very, very slightly thicker.
Beating the metal if it has nowhere to go will just keep stretching and thinning it and make matters worse.
I made a heating attachment for a mig welder, out of a piece of carbon gouging rod and some plumbing fittings that sort of worked but there is no beating the intense heat of an oxy acetylene setup.
I'll see if I can find it. There was a post, but God knows where.
It gives a great explanation on heat shrinking.
What you are trying to achieve is to make the metal thicker again. His method is to heat a high spot red hot, then planish the hot spot so it is flat.
The cool metal surrounding the hot spot stays put and resists movement so the only place for the excess metal to go is within the hot spot so becomes very, very, very slightly thicker.
Beating the metal if it has nowhere to go will just keep stretching and thinning it and make matters worse.
I made a heating attachment for a mig welder, out of a piece of carbon gouging rod and some plumbing fittings that sort of worked but there is no beating the intense heat of an oxy acetylene setup.
I'll see if I can find it. There was a post, but God knows where.
Myles1970
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@Dcal Well I did have it 
and found it very useful, but there's no way I'll be getting hold of an oa set. My work shop is my old lads garage and he's weary enough about me welding out there, has said no even to any gas or oil heaters, so I'm not pushing it
I have the old quarter from the opposite side that I could use to practice.... I've seen on Trevs blog (YouTube) heat shrinking using a butane torch; I have a mapgas that I can experiment with, but I think the Tig on a very low setting might work out better as it should heat a smaller area faster...
and found it very useful, but there's no way I'll be getting hold of an oa set. My work shop is my old lads garage and he's weary enough about me welding out there, has said no even to any gas or oil heaters, so I'm not pushing itI have the old quarter from the opposite side that I could use to practice.... I've seen on Trevs blog (YouTube) heat shrinking using a butane torch; I have a mapgas that I can experiment with, but I think the Tig on a very low setting might work out better as it should heat a smaller area faster...
Dcal
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Even without OA (who has one of them nowadays) the principal is the same.
I don't see why tig won't work, but would be interested to see the results.
Is a blunt 3.2 tungsten better than a sharp 1.6?
I suspect the former but looks like you will be able to tell us soon.
Keep us posted
I don't see why tig won't work, but would be interested to see the results.
Is a blunt 3.2 tungsten better than a sharp 1.6?
I suspect the former but looks like you will be able to tell us soon.
Keep us posted
Dcal
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Excellent
Myles1970
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Well, been a while since my last update.... Flu (tested negative for cvd19), nightshifts etc., anyway I got a mate to help with the engine, he's a full-time mechanic who's built a few engines, race bike engines included.
So we've opened up the bottom end, looks like someone has already tried fitting new bearings... Oh well
I don't have the original seats, so I'm making runners to fit some secondhand buckets....
....once I get these welded-in I can carry on with sealing the floor/underside with 2k epoxy primer. Humidity/temperature is not ideal at the moment, but we do what we can
So we've opened up the bottom end, looks like someone has already tried fitting new bearings... Oh well
I don't have the original seats, so I'm making runners to fit some secondhand buckets....
....once I get these welded-in I can carry on with sealing the floor/underside with 2k epoxy primer. Humidity/temperature is not ideal at the moment, but we do what we can
Myles1970
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No, that's it there... I dare say it may add structural rigidity (maybe)
Myles1970
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Yeah, the seats came with runners and they bolt straight on giving me adjustment fore and aft, as well as being recliners. I test fitted one and think it should be fine, although it's difficult to be sure without a steering column/wheel fitted
