- Thread starter Myles1970
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Myles1970
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@Cosantoir thanks, although if you seen it in person you'd see it needs a skim of 'pon
Under the car never seen will it need it?
Myles1970
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I know but..,. You know I can’t leave it like that
Myles1970
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It was inevitable really…. There was no way I’d get all of the stone-chipping off the rest of the floor without uncovering a hornets nest.
There between the spare wheel well and the passenger chassis rail it hid, in the most inaccessible area
… all pitted, but not perforated, and the inside was shiny and bright when I stripped it back! Sorely tempted to just treat it and hide it, knowing that it’d still be there underneath any coating I apply, I gritted my teeth and dug out the air saw
As expected, twasn’t pretty. I’m thinking I really should have stripped out the boot floor and opened up the rear chassis rails, but I’m reluctant to undo the work I’ve done thus far.
…but I will tackle this bit; it’s visible from inside and out, and accessible now that I’ve cut out the rusty section of the floor
… but first the repair section for the floor…
…. I’m happy with that for tonight. Splash a bit of paint on for now. Next day I’ll cut open the chassis rail as I’m in this deep. So much for having the shell welded this year
There between the spare wheel well and the passenger chassis rail it hid, in the most inaccessible area
… all pitted, but not perforated, and the inside was shiny and bright when I stripped it back! Sorely tempted to just treat it and hide it, knowing that it’d still be there underneath any coating I apply, I gritted my teeth and dug out the air saw
As expected, twasn’t pretty. I’m thinking I really should have stripped out the boot floor and opened up the rear chassis rails, but I’m reluctant to undo the work I’ve done thus far.
…but I will tackle this bit; it’s visible from inside and out, and accessible now that I’ve cut out the rusty section of the floor
… but first the repair section for the floor…
…. I’m happy with that for tonight. Splash a bit of paint on for now. Next day I’ll cut open the chassis rail as I’m in this deep. So much for having the shell welded this year
Myles1970
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Exploration/Destruction
So before I close up the boot floor, I thought I'd better investigate the swelling on the chassis rail/top-hat section. I knew what to expect really; delamination/corrosion... It would have been more sensible to do this when the shell was still on the jig
....I'm cutting out small pieces ready to make up repair sections, then I'll take it off the rotisserie for initial tacking/welding...as much as access will allow anyway..
....and removing the worst of the inner skin/section:
...only to reveal a hole in the side of the main top-hat section:
....I'm thinking probably best to cut-out and repair this piece last.
The view from inside:
So before I close up the boot floor, I thought I'd better investigate the swelling on the chassis rail/top-hat section. I knew what to expect really; delamination/corrosion... It would have been more sensible to do this when the shell was still on the jig
....I'm cutting out small pieces ready to make up repair sections, then I'll take it off the rotisserie for initial tacking/welding...as much as access will allow anyway..
....and removing the worst of the inner skin/section:
...only to reveal a hole in the side of the main top-hat section:
....I'm thinking probably best to cut-out and repair this piece last.
The view from inside:
Myles1970
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A Tale of Two Holes
It really is true what they say about these cars rotting from the inside out. The chassis rails are formed from double-skinned 1.5mm steel. Both holes appear worst, ie. have the most pitting and thinning of the metal in-between. Also, as I opened the rail up, chunks of what used to be steel, some about 3mm thick fell out...
^^^ working from the inside-out.... dunno what happened to the flash here
^^^ Patch ready for the underside, this'll be the last piece of the puzzle
^^^ this is really testing my old bones, up and down to get access. The shell is off the rotisserie so as not to add any undue stress to the rail...
It's a pleasure working with the heavier gauge steel; no burning through, although my aul Clarke 165 is at full chat and I'm welding from both sides. I'm also not too fussy about dressing the welds as I'm happy to leave the added material for strength
^^^ I'm happy with that, although it really will never be seen
The battery on my helmet led torch was flagging, so I'll leave it for today.
All that's left to do is re-install the rear valance, remembering to plug weld the fuel tank straps to the floor, and the following holes in the rear lamp panel:
It really is true what they say about these cars rotting from the inside out. The chassis rails are formed from double-skinned 1.5mm steel. Both holes appear worst, ie. have the most pitting and thinning of the metal in-between. Also, as I opened the rail up, chunks of what used to be steel, some about 3mm thick fell out...
^^^ working from the inside-out.... dunno what happened to the flash here
^^^ Patch ready for the underside, this'll be the last piece of the puzzle
^^^ this is really testing my old bones, up and down to get access. The shell is off the rotisserie so as not to add any undue stress to the rail...
It's a pleasure working with the heavier gauge steel; no burning through, although my aul Clarke 165 is at full chat and I'm welding from both sides. I'm also not too fussy about dressing the welds as I'm happy to leave the added material for strength
^^^ I'm happy with that, although it really will never be seen
The battery on my helmet led torch was flagging, so I'll leave it for today.
All that's left to do is re-install the rear valance, remembering to plug weld the fuel tank straps to the floor, and the following holes in the rear lamp panel:
Myles1970
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Chassis rail finished:
.....and boot floor section plug-welded in:
I know the welds need finishing, but it's not happening tonight; I've work again in the morning so better get a few hours sleep before then.
Also, the forecast is for an unseasonably warm day tomorrow! What's the chances of getting a coat of epoxy primer on after work? Slim I suppose as I've still to refit the valance and finish butt welding on the above
.....and boot floor section plug-welded in:
I know the welds need finishing, but it's not happening tonight; I've work again in the morning so better get a few hours sleep before then.
Also, the forecast is for an unseasonably warm day tomorrow! What's the chances of getting a coat of epoxy primer on after work? Slim I suppose as I've still to refit the valance and finish butt welding on the above
Myles1970
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Well that's the floor finished, front to back. A quick coat of Upol weld-thru zinc primer will have to do until the temperatures reach double digits. Then it'll be epoxy 2k, seam-sealer, Gravitex followed by top coat in the body colour.
....and this is what I get for poking around
And from the inside:
....and this is what I get for poking around
And from the inside:
Myles1970
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A skim of putty should sort that (sounds better than filler, splodge, Bondo, isopon etc. )
(below) Drilled out the spot on the left with a step drill, and filled with mig using a copper backing. Area on the right marked out for airsaw avoiding any spot welds.... Spot welds removed using a B&D powerfile
Have to make a template from this/these:-
)(below) Drilled out the spot on the left with a step drill, and filled with mig using a copper backing. Area on the right marked out for airsaw avoiding any spot welds.... Spot welds removed using a B&D powerfile
Have to make a template from this/these:-
Myles1970
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Thanks, you're right... but I've enjoyed every minute (well almost every minute) and I'm kinda gonna miss the metalwork......in fact, I'm finding it hard not to look for my next project
Myles1970
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Above shows the repair patch welded-in oversized to help with heat dissipation, also the tab behind was quite small so I left the hole for plug welds small (about 5mm), they're strong enough I think...
Above Trimmed to fit...
Below I'm not sure how well it comes across in the photos, but the vertical seams both blew through, requiring the use of a copper backing plate to build up again....in particular the one on the right, where there's a double skin, but I think it's turned out alright
The weather is still too cold for painting, so I don't think there's any point in stripping any more as it'd just be inviting flash rusting, may as well let the numerous coats of paint protect until temperature reaches double digits...
I still have fourlinks, antiroll bars, subframe, axle, calipers and more to blast and paint, but again, temperatures are low.... Might be time to look into repairing the front spoiler/bumper.....it's an aftermarket affair in grp that's seen some action, and could benefit from a bash bar....
Myles1970
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Now to some of the fiddly jobs....
The rear bumper side support bracket was almost non-existent on the pass side, so I drilled-off the driver side one and fashioned one from some fresh mild steel...
I actually got this done today in about three hours, a bit of a record for me as I'm usually quite slow (in every sense of the word) . The original one was made from one piece, and I used two. I was originally going to join them with a fillet weld, but decided to have at it with the hammer and anvil (ok....off-cut of H-beam), rounding the edge of one piece and creating a butt-joint. Dressed the outside welds, but access is quite limited to the inside ones, so I'm not too worried about them...
The rear bumper side support bracket was almost non-existent on the pass side, so I drilled-off the driver side one and fashioned one from some fresh mild steel...
I actually got this done today in about three hours, a bit of a record for me as I'm usually quite slow (in every sense of the word
) . The original one was made from one piece, and I used two. I was originally going to join them with a fillet weld, but decided to have at it with the hammer and anvil (ok....off-cut of H-beam), rounding the edge of one piece and creating a butt-joint. Dressed the outside welds, but access is quite limited to the inside ones, so I'm not too worried about them...
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Myles1970
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Trying to use the driver's side to compare, I used the masking tape method to create a template, two pieces: one flat and the other quite complicated...
it will need reinforcement from the inside, I might make a little bracket and plug weld it on...
it will need reinforcement from the inside, I might make a little bracket and plug weld it on... 