Anybody else using a 1970`s BOC Autolynx 100 or 130?

[somerset_woody]

Hi Dave,
Sorry for the long silence, welder repair has been side-lined by higher priority medical tasks!

One other question before proceeding further. Is email disclosure allowed in a Reply post?

Regards,
John.

 

[Paul.]

Hi Dave,
Sorry for the long silence, welder repair has been side-lined by higher priority medical tasks!

One other question before proceeding further. Is email disclosure allowed in a Reply post?

Regards,
John.

Its up to you but we don't recommend it, much better to exchange personal details via the personal conversation facility,

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Bill. Thanks for the pix. Damaged components are protection for the Semipak, that is the contactor for this machine. Difficult to see in detail but a common problem with intermittent current, is that the large yellow connectors work loose. Start by ensurin that these are tight on both sides of the link board.

It looks to me that the upper, rear connector may have overheated. If you can find these large crimps, then replace them. Alternatively, 30A Terminal strip will do the job.

Meanwhile, I'll check the circuit diagrams on Monday, for values of the components. If they are badly burned, you should replace them.

Dave

 

[Rizzo]

Bill. Thanks for the pix. Damaged components are protection for the Semipak, that is the contactor for this machine. Difficult to see in detail but a common problem with intermittent current, is that the large yellow connectors work loose. Start by ensurin that these are tight on both sides of the link board.

It looks to me that the upper, rear connector may have overheated. If you can find these large crimps, then replace them. Alternatively, 30A Terminal strip will do the job.

Meanwhile, I'll check the circuit diagrams on Monday, for values of the components. If they are badly burned, you should replace them.

Dave

Hi Dave thanks for your input its much appreciated, the yellow connectors were tight tbh, its the two components or certainly the lower one the looks damaged to me, not sure what the white one is like, i will take out the effected this week, it may well show up a poor connection on the yellow.
Bill

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Bill

Checked the diagrams and the component that is obviously burned is a resistor - 100ohms, 2.4watt (or larger wattage is OK). The white component is a capacitor, 0.22 microfarads 600V. Probably best to go to your local electronics store and show them the originals. Fitting new ones is a simple enough soldering job.

Also, see my previous posts about how badly soldered the pcbs on these machines was. I always start fault finding by taking each board out and thoroughly checking/resoldering every joint, especially the connector pins on the board edge and any heavier components (relays, capacitors etc). 99% of the time, it's these joints that cause intermittent problems.

If you need further info or diagrams, PM me with an email address and I'll send them to you.

Dave

 

[Rizzo]

Dave,

Thanks once again for the feedback, the thought of getting the old girl back up and running is now looking like a real possibility, not sure who we have around here for electronics but i,m sure the local Maplins may be able to help.
The components you refer too are they directional when i replace them? just a thought.

I had seen your previous posts regarding the badly soldered pcbs, so will bare that in mind after rectifying the primary faults, hopefully they are ok. I will see how things go and post up the results at a later date.

regards Bill

 

[m1ecy]

I am also using one of these welders, mine is decidedly sick, but I have realised that I cannot justify spending what it would cost me to replace the welder with something of similar quality at present.

It can produce a good weld if you wind the power up, but at "normal" power levels, it spits pops and bangs. I suspect the original capacitor smoothing has lots an awful lot of C missing - the date code on the capacitors is 79/38 which makes them somewhere near 35 years old!

A question I would like to pose would be that of sourcing capacitors with suitable ripple current rating - the original are 25,000uf at 50v, with a 28A ripple rating, RS do not list anything like this current rating - could anyone here suggest a suitable source (preferably by a reputable manufacturer - I would like to see a long term repair!)

Cheers
Sean

PS if anyone has a circuit diagram I wouldn't mind a copy - all costs met of course.

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Sean
Happy to email diagram (foc), so please PM your address.

Poorly capacitors would give the sort of problem that you describe but it's also possible that too much wire feed speed could give a similar fault. Presuming that the machine is loaded with 0.6mm wire (this is what is was designed for), can you get a decent weld on low settings by adjusting wire speed, in other words ignoring what it says on the scales around the knobs? Also check the variation of motor speed off load - should go fairly smoothly between almost dead stop and flat out.

For capacitors, try Technical Arc in York. Their level of service has gone down a little of late, but from memory (I'm at home right now) they do a decent range of capacitors, so you should find enough to make up the required value, for much less money than RS!

Dave

 

[m1ecy]

Hi Dave,

Thanks for the reply.

I have taken some other caps I had laying around, 15000uf, and gave them a crack - it has improved the low current performance of this welder, obviously with the reduced capacitance, it is still not right.

I had seen the Tec Arc caps, but could not find any technical data sheets relating to them, also being of Chinese origin, I have misgivings as to their longevity.

I have ordered some from RS now, hopefully they will restore normal operation.

I use 0.8mm wire in this welder (do really need the correct feed roller though) it seems to feed well - have used about 40 kilos of wire so far in the time I have owned it.... The feed control in this machine is excellent, very smooth and progressive control, despite its age.

Will report back once I have replaced the caps properly.

PM on it's way

Cheers
Sean

 

[m1ecy]

Well, three new capacitors, a couple of new crimp terminals, and under £60 spent = a happy welder again.

I did also treat it to a good blow out with an airline - I am amazed at the sheer quantity of dust lurking in the cabinet!

Thanks for the comments - while I doubt it will last another 35 years, it will live a few more.

Cheers
Sean

 

[wizzman64]

Hi Dave . It seems you are the man for the job ! I also have an Autolynx 2 which has been great for nearly thirty years with a couple of recon circuit boards at a hundred quid a shot until I realised all they were doing was re soldering the joints which I could have managed. However... the latest fault is the wire speed. It is supposed to go down to a near stop but the slowest speed mine will go down to is about normal weld rate. Its when I have something delicate to do that I struggle. Any ideas would be much appreciated. Also I would like a wiring diagram if you could spare one ? Cheers . Ian

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Ian
Happy to send diagrams but you'll have to wait until I get to work on Monday. Meanwhile, if you have time, check condition of and connections to the speed control on the front panel. Could be full of dirt, busted or broken connections. I will look at the diagrams and send any further thoughts.
You'll need to PM me your email so I can send diagrams and don't wait too long as I am off for a few days from 5th Feb to 9th Feb.
Dave

 

[wizzman64]

Ian
Happy to send d

Ian
Happy to send diagrams but you'll have to wait until I get to work on Monday. Meanwhile, if you have time, check condition of and connections to the speed control on the front panel. Could be full of dirt, busted or broken connections. I will look at the diagrams and send any further thoughts.
You'll need to PM me your email so I can send diagrams and don't wait too long as I am off for a few days from 5th Feb to 9th Feb.
Dave

iagrams but you'll have to wait until I get to work on Monday. Meanwhile, if you have time, check condition of and connections to the speed control on the front panel. Could be full of dirt, busted or broken connections. I will look at the diagrams and send any further thoughts.
You'll need to PM me your email so I can send diagrams and don't wait too long as I am off for a few days from 5th Feb to 9th Feb.
Dave

 

[wizzman64]

Ok thanks Dave. Am too busy this week to check and have it to bits but will get round to it at the weekend hopefully. Just going to try to work out how to send a pm to send my email !! cheers again. Ian

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Info sent 2/2/15 to your email.
Dave

 

[wizzman64]

Hi Dave, and thanks for sending all the info. Welder now fixed and working great and what a simple fault, when I eventually found it. Had all the pcb s out and they all looked fine, as was everything else. I bought a potentiometer for the wire speed but the minimum speed was still too high. Anyway, after reading the pages you sent it showed that the wire speed has a max and a min which can be adjusted and.....hey presto, the minimum one had been moved from its original position which was obvious due to some factory seal/varnish on the component. As it is on the edge of the pcb I can only presume that when I last had the pcb bracket out, I have caught it when refitting to the welder and rotated the pre-set where it passes close to the main loom. Also, the main earth from the gun where it plugs into the welder had gone fusty and took some effort to remove. I cleaned it up, refitted and hey presto....perfect weld. I , am so happy !! When you have had something for thirty years you kind of get attached.....felt like my dog had died !!. Well, its saved me a long drive to Surbiton. Thanks again mate.
Ian

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Ian
Thanks for the reedback and I am really pleased that it was such a simple fault. This is often the case and it's always worth looking for the obvious/simple things first. When I had new engineers to train, I always started with - "Is the faulty machine actually plugged in to a live mains socket?" I have noticed that on this forum, some folk start with the most complicated solutions to a problem, rather than investigating the simple stuff first.
Happy welding.
Dave

 

[nige t]

Hi.
I have a boc autolynx 2 circa 1993. It has been welding find until the other day when after welding 5mm box section for a while the wire feed stopped. I left it overnight and next day it worked fine for about half an hour then stopped again and now wont feed at all.There is current going through the wire as when i pull some out and earth it there is current there, also the gas is still being delivered.I have had all the boards out and the joints look ok by eye. The relays seem to be working as I can hear them. There is not 24v going to the motor when the trigger is pressed so I am assuming its a supply problem.
Could anyone supply me with a wiring diagram or point me in the right direction as I would love to keep the old girl welding for many more years to come.
Cheers
Nige

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Happy to send all the info I have on this machine. PM me an email address and I'll send it asap.

Sorry, no time to look at the circuits right now, so can't give you any real help. I'll take a look tomorrow AM and get back to you.
Dave

 

[nige t]

Hi Dave.
The wiring diagrams would be a great help if you could send me them. If you could have a look at the circuits when you get a minute that would be of even greater help.
As I am new to the forum I Dont know how to pm you my email thou. Could anyone help me with this.
Cheers
Nige