Anybody else using a 1970`s BOC Autolynx 100 or 130?

[NotANormalCoder]

Nige
Click on my name in the post above, then click start a conversation in the box that pops up.

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Nige
Just had a brief look at the circuits and based on your description of the fault, which looks like it could be intermittent, then I suggest you check relay RL201 and also the speed control potentiometer on the front panel. RL201 - you'll have to look at each PCB and find out which board its on, as I can't remember but this must energise and make good contact for the motor to run. Once you find it, fire up the machine an visually check it's coming in. If it is, it could be dirty/burnt contacts, poor soldering (a 'feature' of these machines!). If not, then there are other relays that also control it. You'll need the circuit for that and a fair knowledge of electronics.
The potentiometer for wire speed is buried behind the control knob, so undo it and check resistance across both ends and then check the wiper (middle connection) and be sure it varies smoothly as you rotate the shaft.
Something to be getting on with....
Dave

 

[nige t]

Nige
Just had a brief look at the circuits and based on your description of the fault, which looks like it could be intermittent, then I suggest you check relay RL201 and also the speed control potentiometer on the front panel. RL201 - you'll have to look at each PCB and find out which board its on, as I can't remember but this must energise and make good contact for the motor to run. Once you find it, fire up the machine an visually check it's coming in. If it is, it could be dirty/burnt contacts, poor soldering (a 'feature' of these machines!). If not, then there are other relays that also control it. You'll need the circuit for that and a fair knowledge of electronics.
The potentiometer for wire speed is buried behind the control knob, so undo it and check resistance across both ends and then check the wiper (middle connection) and be sure it varies smoothly as you rotate the shaft.
Something to be getting on with....
Dave

Hi Dave
Thanks for that info I will check these possible causes and let you know how I get on
Cheers
Nige

 

[nige t]

Hi Dave
Many thanks for the information you had on the circuits. They are a great help.
I checked the relay RL201 and it is clicking in fine I have had the cover off and cleaned the contacts and still no feed. I checked the wire speed control and it has Resistance across the outer terminals and the middle one has varying resistance when the knob is turned. I have disconnected the motor and attached a 12v battery and the motor turns.
I noticed that when i was depressing the trigger the set would sometimes hum louder than other times. I found a loose capacitor on the welding control board c313 that I have re soldered and the set now seems to hum consistently.
I also found a large silver capacitor that is bolted to the welder chassis that has a green (maybe resistor ?) with the numbers W2468R on it that had broken off so have resoldered that on. I dont know what this does.
I have read a few more articles on welding problems and it seems some sets have a thermal cut out that is linked to the wire feed to stop the set should it overheat. Do you know if this is the case with the autolynx.?
I have checked and resoldered all the connections on the wire feed control board as well.
If you have any more ideas it would be very much appreciated.
Cheers
Nige

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Nige - Not at work right now but will double check the thermostat issue on Monday, as I think you are correct. There is a thermostat mounted in/on the welding rectifier assembly (back of machine, top left). If you find the thermostat wires, you could try shorting them an see if it helps. I have a sneaky suspicion that, as RL201 if operating, there is not a thermostat issue because any internal problems inhibit its operation.
Without diagrams, not sure what C313 does but resoldering is a good move. Silver capacitor and resistor are surge protection I think.

A quiet hum from the machine is normal, if it varies in tone as you alter the voltage knob, its the sound of the thyristor feeding the welding transformer.

Dave

 

[nige t]

Nige - Not at work right now but will double check the thermostat issue on Monday, as I think you are correct. There is a thermostat mounted in/on the welding rectifier assembly (back of machine, top left). If you find the thermostat wires, you could try shorting them an see if it helps. I have a sneaky suspicion that, as RL201 if operating, there is not a thermostat issue because any internal problems inhibit its operation.
Without diagrams, not sure what C313 does but resoldering is a good move. Silver capacitor and resistor are surge protection I think.

A quiet hum from the machine is normal, if it varies in tone as you alter the voltage knob, its the sound of the thyristor feeding the welding transformer.

Dave

Hi Dave
Thanks for your response.
Over the weekend I have checked the input voltage to the wire feed board and it is 25/28v ac. I checked continuity over the relay RL201 and all three contacts seem to be ok. I think i found the thermostat but I wasnt sure so did not try to bridge the wires but having read the info you kindly sent me I think the overheat cuts out the welding current not the wire feed.
I think its getting to the stage that I need to maybe start replacing parts on the wire speed control board but have no means of testing thyristors or capacitors any more ideas would be very much appreciated.
Many thanks
Nige

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Nigel

On the motor control pcb, check variable resistors RV201 & RV202. These set min and max wire feed speed. Mark where they are set and then give them a good twist through their range. Then reset back to marked position. I vaguely remember that somebody else on this forum has a similar problem to you and this fixed it (dirty/old pots). You may need to tweak settings later if it works. Otherwise, PCB needs professional repair I think.

Dave

 

[nige t]

Hi Dave.

I have marked and tweeked the pots but still no motor whirring into life.
Think I will have to try and find someone in cornwall to check the boards out for me. I am wondering now if there maybe a broken wire between the board and the motor but its very difficult to see the wiring pin outs and colours on the diagram you gave me . I dont suppose you or anyone else who may read this post has a clearer wiring diagram.
Nige

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Nigel
Sorry but I do not have a better wiring diagram, all I can suggest is that you follow the wires back from the motor to the control PCB. Not much help I am afraid.
Dave

 

[Chris5501]

Have the same autolynx 2 My one has the same fault with the suppressor cap and resistor. but has done damage to board at the back. resistor gone on pcb. If you could help with the circuit diagrams and wiring diagrams it would be a big help.

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Hi Chris. I have major problems with the company email server being down intermittently. If you PM me with your email address, I will send the diagrams and infor that I have, as soon as I can guarantee the mail is up again.
Regards
Dave

 

[Chris5501]

Ok will do.

 

[Chris5501]

Ok will do.

Thanks for the info. Will help a lot to finding out what is faulty.

 

[Chris5501]

Well had a look at the machine. Found the resistor that had burnt up was R337 18 ohm 0.5watt. I check the transistor BSY64 and it was OK. But found out why it burnt out the resistor. D312 short circuit, and resistor r339 also short circuit. And the winding on the pulse transformer that's connected to r339,D312 is open circuit. Any ides to where a could get one.

 

[Chris5501]

Well i have had no look trying to find this pt301 pules transformer.

 

[Mission]

Ahaaa So this indeed an Autolynx but an Autolynx 2. I have a circuit diagram and will happily send it if you pm your email address. I also have some other tech info but this requires me to stand by the scanner for a while and feed it in, in bits and pieces, as old manual from BOC had many double pull-out pages.

If you feel you are up to the task, I'll get this done in a day or so but you will need a fair degree of electrical knowledge to fix this yourself. I will give you one major tip. The soldering of the circuit boards on these machines was awful. Most times, resoldering every connector on every board and every heavy component (relays/caps etc) will resolve the problem. Take the boards out one at a time and go through them with a magnifying glass and soldering iron. You are 99% likely to find a large number of dry joints. Generally, I have rarely found failed components on these machines.

Dave

 

[Mission]

Hi I'm new to this forum I was given the same welder as pictured earlier but somebody had decided to remove the thysister or the IGBT module but didn't label the wires. Also there is a resistor and a capacitor that have been disconnected and I have no idea where that goes. I know that all three pcb's have been re-soldered. I am blind without some pictures and a wiring diagram. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[NotANormalCoder]

Same as I said in response to your other post;
Pm me your email and I'll send you all the circuit info I have. Machine too old for IGBTs. I think you mean SCR block at back of machine near main rectifier.
Dave

 

[MKHCLASSICCARRESTORATIONS]

Ahaaa So this indeed an Autolynx but an Autolynx 2. I have a circuit diagram and will happily send it if you pm your email address. I also have some other tech info but this requires me to stand by the scanner for a while and feed it in, in bits and pieces, as old manual from BOC had many double pull-out pages.

If you feel you are up to the task, I'll get this done in a day or so but you will need a fair degree of electrical knowledge to fix this yourself. I will give you one major tip. The soldering of the circuit boards on these machines was awful. Most times, resoldering every connector on every board and every heavy component (relays/caps etc) will resolve the problem. Take the boards out one at a time and go through them with a magnifying glass and soldering iron. You are 99% likely to find a large number of dry joints. Generally, I have rarely found failed components on these machines.

Dave

Hi Dave. I have aquired an identical machine, BOC Autolynx 2 130, in MINT condition, but no idea whatsoever how to set it up, as it has at least twice the dials etc. to my old previous Arc-Tec 200 which has just died. If you have any user instructions, setup guides etc., I would very much appreciate it if you could email some to Me, at martitnkhigdon@gmail.com,
Kind Regards,
Martin.
MKH Classsic Car Restorations.

 

[mike 109444]

Hi Martin Welcome to the forum
I purchased a non working Autolynx a few weeks back and tried contacting Dave but got no reply.
I have now with the help of Eddie49 got my machine working and like you struggled to understand the controls (some additional faults did not help!) After some googling found one comment about the double triggering to activate the stitch mode (something I am never likely to use !) but it did make more sense of the markings on the front panel.
Hope the atached doc makes some sense.
Can I ask if your machine has the orignal torch fitted or has it had a euro socket / torch fitted ?? If it has the euro fitted could you take a pic of the set up. Thanks