Anyone familiar with old Valiant boilers (butane)?

[Screwdriver]

We have progress and a stable pilot light.
Having re-read the info above, lack of main burner might be down to me. Will retry..,

The hot water tap opened ok but no water flowed, then like a dam a small trickle turned into 100% flow.
The self igniter works ok when flicked manually but the trigger on the knob sticks - an easy fix, the trigger on the knob just needs cleaning.
I’m amazed there’s still gas in the bottles, they’re been left for decades.

View attachment 325138

I think the biggest danger with this old thing other than problems with leaky seals etc is if it starts to work!

You will then be successfully heating water in a boiler of unknown condition. If the pressure does not vent as the water starts to boil, it could explode.

Have you tried pressurising the vessel to see if it will vent correctly?? Is there a safety release valve somewhere? Do all the valves operate as intended, especially any pressure release valves!!

 

[waddycall]

Could you please turn the gas off at the bottles when you’ve finished playing with it

 

[sg66]

We have progress and a stable pilot light.
Having re-read the info above, lack of main burner might be down to me. Will retry..,

The hot water tap opened ok but no water flowed, then like a dam a small trickle turned into 100% flow.
The self igniter works ok when flicked manually but the trigger on the knob sticks - an easy fix, the trigger on the knob just needs cleaning.
I’m amazed there’s still gas in the bottles, they’re been left for decades.

View attachment 325138

That's still in ignition position ie main burner won't ignite.

 

[sg66]

I think the biggest danger with this old thing other than problems with leaky seals etc is if it starts to work!

You will then be successfully heating water in a boiler of unknown condition. If the pressure does not vent as the water starts to boil, it could explode.

Have you tried pressurising the vessel to see if it will vent correctly?? Is there a safety release valve somewhere? Do all the valves operate as intended, especially any pressure release valves!!

There is nothing to pressurise, they tend not to explode as such, if the water housing goes faulty or the gas valve sticks in the open position then you get steam very quickly, it will blow the weakest link.......

They are very reliable units when working.

 

[sg66]

One other thing, if water regulator on bottom, the one with no knob on is turned fully cold, depending on pressure the main burner may not operate.

The water section can be removed without touching the gas side if you need to strip it, Ohh and the pilot needs cleaning

 

[Nomad]

@sg66 all good info, thanks. I had already noticed the ignition position and changed it after taking the photo but still no main burners.
The setting I thought would fire the main burners -
top dial set to run (turned 90 degrees from the photo, small flame on the dial )
bottom row: left hot fully open, centre mixer / regulator set to hot (fully clockwise - see first photo in this thread), right cold fully closed or slightly open.

@waddycall I usually turn off the gas regulator and disconnect it from the bottle for extra safety, should I just be turning the regulator off? I'm happy to do either...

@Screwdriver all good points and if I was planning to put this into regular service I'd have a very different outlook, Before it gets removed I'd like to use it to learn more about a machine I'm not familar with, having the option to have a few hot showers before the renovations are complete would be a bonus.

I'm busy for the next couple of days but will have another look before the weekend. Updates to follow

 

[Screwdriver]

There is nothing to pressurise, they tend not to explode as such, if the water housing goes faulty or the gas valve sticks in the open position then you get steam very quickly, it will blow the weakest link.......

They are very reliable units when working.

That sounds like good info. Out of interest, what might the weakest link be and what do you mean by “blow”?

I am typically over cautious when working on my own central heating. I mean, water+electricity+gas+flames, what’s the worst that could happen…

 

[gaz1]

There is nothing to pressurise, they tend not to explode as such, if the water housing goes faulty or the gas valve sticks in the open position then you get steam very quickly, it will blow the weakest link.......

They are very reliable units when working.

ive had one do it on me and others wonder what the hell to do

if you hear the water boil turn the hot tap water on fast and move away they do spit hot steam water out fast

after this it gives you chance to shut off the gas valve

its caused by a sticking needle gas valve from the diaphram side of it and they do stick from time to time

 

[sg66]

That sounds like good info. Out of interest, what might the weakest link be and what do you mean by “blow”?

I am typically over cautious when working on my own central heating. I mean, water+electricity+gas+flames, what’s the worst that could happen…

Usually plastic pipe these days, that's why first couple of meters should be copper, it will burst through plastic fittings and pipe with ease. Modern boilers have pressure blow offs, temp sensors, over temp etc, old boilers have flame loss and errrr nothing else

 

[Kayos]

That is fit for the bin

Max 5 minutes of use if in a suitable sized room

 

[Nomad]

We have success !

The thermocouple was ok (the clue was I had a stable pilot light), I removed the water manifold and ran some water through into a bucket - the diaphragm moved and looked fine, I think the problem was the gas valve that the diaphragm operates - when I pressed the valve manually it was stiff the first time but moved more freely after that. When everything was put back together the main burner fired up as it should. The pilot got cleaned at the same time

@sg66 and @gaz1 the help is appreciated and made fixing the thing a whole lot easier that it would have been !

@Kayos fair comment and I'm expecting this to be removed sometime in April and used very little before then. It's been an interesting learning excercise which was the main reason for doing it

@Screwdriver afraid I'm nor sure how to take your comments, some sound like you're an experienced gas-safe engineer that thinks my system is dangerous, others sound more like you're an unqualified & untrained chap who works on their own gas system but isn't confident or qualifed.

Thanks everyone for the ideas and suggestions

 

[Nomad]

Hopefully the internal house walls (including the one the heater is on) will be coming down in April so if anyone is interested in the unit later on the year “for display purposes only” can you let me know or pm me, it seems a shame to put it in the skip.



Many thanks for all the interest

 

[sg66]

Would have no issues using it as a single point hand wash, if its got nice blue flames from main Burner and heat exchanger is nor warped.

Glad your up and running

 

[gaz1]

corvec britonys use a flue to the outside

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i can find out the measurements for that flue

you can seal with fire rope and flue to the outside my suggestion is for a pass through flue

so the fumes are pulled out from the outside or you can use a spinner flue

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rotating-Chimney-Stainless-Square-AISI304/dp/B01N8XUP64/ref=asc_df_B01N8XUP64/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499289800990&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17049273336737679881&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006553&hvtargid=pla-472332220972&psc=1

you need something that is anti downdraft

 

[Parm]

Hot off the press

Fraudulent gas installer prosecuted for illegal gas work | HSE Media Centre

press.hse.gov.uk

 

[Nomad]

@Parm - are you having a dig? For info, this is in my own property and the place is uninhabitable until it gets a new roof fitted, all gas will be removed from the building as part of the roofing work. Rest assured I'm not passing myself off as a gas engineeer !

@gaz1 interesting stuff thanks, I'm always happy to be educated but I'm removing the system soon so I'll not be investing in a chimney (but the thought is appreciated). I had to install a few 2x4 "pit-props" just to stop the roof collapsing any further, I don't think it would survive if I put any more holes in the ceiling

 

[Kayos]

@Parm - are you having a dig? For info, this is in my own property and the place is uninhabitable until it gets a new roof fitted, all gas will be removed from the building as part of the roofing work. Rest assured I'm not passing myself off as a gas engineeer !

@gaz1 interesting stuff thanks, I'm always happy to be educated but I'm removing the system soon so I'll not be investing in a chimney (but the thought is appreciated). I had to install a few 2x4 "pit-props" just to stop the roof collapsing any further, I don't think it would survive if I put any more holes in the ceiling

I think @Parm was just supplying some onfo.

Its irrelevant if its your own house, it goes bang or someone dies or there's a chance either could happen, based on you touching it and you will be in court

 

[brightspark]

I think @Parm was just supplying some onfo.

Its irrelevant if its your own house, it goes bang or someone dies or there's a chance either could happen, based on you touching it and you will be in court

very true but if you repair your own and its correctly fitted and nothing goes wrong it inst a problem in your own property

 

[Parm]

Over to the experts now

 

[sg66]

corvec britonys use a flue to the outside

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www.ebay.co.uk

i can find out the measurements for that flue

you can seal with fire rope and flue to the outside my suggestion is for a pass through flue

so the fumes are pulled out from the outside or you can use a spinner flue

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Rotating-Chimney-Stainless-Square-AISI304/dp/B01N8XUP64/ref=asc_df_B01N8XUP64/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=499289800990&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17049273336737679881&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006553&hvtargid=pla-472332220972&psc=1

you need something that is anti downdraft

Nope it doesn't need anti down draught, it has or should have draught diverter built into diverter hood fitted to the top of the boiler, outlet is 3 1/2 inch or there abouts, you get an adapter to go to std 90mm flue, if its in a position where fingers can touch should be twin wall, all irrelevant as its not going to happen.

As to the legality, legally you are not covered to work on your own gas appliances, this only ever becomes a problem when things go wrong.

In reality I know plenty of folk who are legally covered and shouldn't be and some that are not that are fine.


This pic is a boiler I was asked if I could fix, this was the exact state I found it in, a registered business got it to this state, couldn’t fix it and after being at it for 2hrs for the 3rd time the owner refused to let them continue.