Ah thanks, will look into that. To be honest it's most likely to burst at the bottom which is going to be where the water is anyway. I can't say I have a pump that'll do 300psi, I'll go see what I can find!
They're big rubber flat oval thingys. The current ones really don't have any give left and probably won't seal. I had a look online and they seem to be almost £20 each and there's 2 of them!
I'll go get them measured and see whether i can find a cheaper source
Right, more questions, what to these giant grub screws do! They have captive nuts that cover them up and seem to lock them in place. Some sort of adjustment to valves or something?
I'm looking at the two grub screws on the side of the low compression head. They stick out horizontally.
Very true, do need to get it powered up, unfortunately I'm away at university now for a while so not going to be able to get to it for a bit. But going to source the parts to get the thing spinning (belts, wiring and switch) and then hopefully we'll be able to get it going when I next get to it!
Burdekin, bit lost as to what you mean by the dome end weld, which one are you talking about?
It's not clear from the pic but see how one side of the weld is proud and looks like there is penetration and then the other side there is a groove and no penetration.
Maybe it's muck on the other side but I'd definitely check it out.
Oh apologies, thought you were talking about the actual compressor itself. I'll have a look and clean it up when I next get to it but i doubt a weld like that would disappear entirely if I'm honest. Anyway, when i next get some free time I'll clean it up and we'll go from there!
Just depends what's been in the vessel and what welding rods were used. Seen plenty of severe weld root corrosion first hand so it certainly does occur.
Most air receiver failures are normally just pin hole leaks so no issue. You don't want a catastrophic failure at a weld due to the quick release of the stored energy, could be fatal if someone got hit by it.
Currently acquiring all the goods to hydro test the tank. Got hold of a spare 3 phase socket so going to test the motor when I next back to it then I can order a pressure switch.
Anyway, whilst gathering all the needed blanking plugs and fittings to ramp 250-300psi into the tank, I came across my safety blow-off valve and was wondering whether it was worth anything also, it says 55psi on the side, which doesn't bode well for hoping to run the tank up to about 120psi, or is it missing a 1 in front and I'm miss-reading it.
Also, is it worth anything, as I'm wondering whether it's worth selling it (and possibly with the gauge if they should be kept as a pair) and changing it to one for about 145psi. It's a birkett valve, here's a couple of pics of it and the gauge, the gauge is the same brand as the compressor so would probably keep them together, please let me know what you think!
If you have all the kit to pressure test the tank then you have the kit to test and set the relief valve. Strip it down and check the condition of the seals and spring, if it's OK then reset it with the pump, I would set it at 150psi and set the compressor to 120psi.
That's what i was thinking, it looks like it's fairly set but the addition of the padlock seems a bit odd. I'd rather not adjust it and potentially ruin it when i can just buy a new one at 145psi for not very much money
There's nothing frightening in there! If your worried then just pop test it with your pump.
The padlock is in place of the tamper proof wire lock and lead seal that would have been fitted if it had been certified by someone.