Wallace
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- Staines, Middlesex, England.
- Thread starter ukracer
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http://www.rmweb.co.uk/community/index.php?/topic/38619-how-to-solder-brass-to-aluminium/
seems like soldering a no go at all lol
seems like soldering a no go at all lol
I wouldn't pay much attention to what's said in that link. There are various tin/zinc, lead/tin/silver and i believe tin/silver solders about that'll do the job with a suitable flux. There's also
but i don't know what the solder composition is (other than it contains cadmium) as muggyweld do a similar business model to the shills that hype up zinc based aluminium solders to be some "wonder rod"... lots of sales BS, little substance, overpriced
Not practical but FWIW the silver solder you already bought could be used... it's working temp is higher than the melting point of aluminium but the brass side of the joint can be tinned with silver solder and then brazed to the ally side using an aluminium-silicon filler with the appropriate flux. This method can also be used to join ally to steel or stainless although regardless of what's being joined it's a faff and not easy to keep things clean enough
Here's a cored solder... http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1683972.pdf
Personally i'd use loctite as already suggested, they have primers to improve set up time and IIRC bond strength/breakaway torque with metals like ally if you're paranoid. If you want belts and braces stake it after loctiting. Cheaper, faster, less faff/clean up and no nasty fluxes
Not practical but FWIW the silver solder you already bought could be used... it's working temp is higher than the melting point of aluminium but the brass side of the joint can be tinned with silver solder and then brazed to the ally side using an aluminium-silicon filler with the appropriate flux. This method can also be used to join ally to steel or stainless although regardless of what's being joined it's a faff and not easy to keep things clean enough
Here's a cored solder... http://www.farnell.com/datasheets/1683972.pdf
Personally i'd use loctite as already suggested, they have primers to improve set up time and IIRC bond strength/breakaway torque with metals like ally if you're paranoid. If you want belts and braces stake it after loctiting. Cheaper, faster, less faff/clean up and no nasty fluxes
Yeah ink I am going with loctite for now and possibly a peg/rivet until I see how the prototypes go.
Although the wall thickness is a bit bigger its only 3/16 so a peg will possibly weaken it..You wouldn't need pegs or anything, just a hammer and punch to stake it https://www.google.co.uk/search?biw...msedr...0...1c.1.64.img..0.19.777.Zg2oy0xzBVo
Another way would be to roll the thread instead of cutting it... fluteless roll forming taps produce MUCH stronger threads so you'll be able to tighten the stud more before the thread strips due to the lack of engagement. They're also faster to use as well (no chips/swarf). Even SKF-DORMER-BSF-3-8-20
on the bay
Another way would be to roll the thread instead of cutting it... fluteless roll forming taps produce MUCH stronger threads so you'll be able to tighten the stud more before the thread strips due to the lack of engagement. They're also faster to use as well (no chips/swarf). Even SKF-DORMER-BSF-3-8-20
on the bay
Aluminium rod is not strong enough and it has to be light so needs to be ali., It actually holds up 1.2 metres of 3/16 x 1 inch ali plus groundbait.
Cant be steel as it will rust and it heavy etc etc .
No the opposite side to the thread needs to be flush as something goes up against it. Needs to be aesthetically pleasing as well.
