MattF
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 16,613
- Location
- South Yorkshire
- Thread starter AlexBrown_1
- Start date
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,288
- Location
- North Lincs
Yep, with the AMS, a fantastic deal. I am after another one but I want a bigger bed. I have been looking at the Qidi plus 4 but I am wary of the 'influencers' 
It's with the AMS... but not sure about the build plate. Or which one is needed.
iNf
Member
- Messages
- 379
- Location
- Hereford, England
It's worth bearing in mind that the P1s is the same printer in terms of volume and speed, the carbon adds a better touch screen (not really essential as most send prints directly from the slicer or the app) a better camera and spaghetti detection, seems a lot of extra money when the P1s is £669 with the AMS
That's the one...
iNf
Member
- Messages
- 379
- Location
- Hereford, England
Run petg-cf when needed extra strength over other stuff.
Done some cup holders the other day in it.
Dozzer
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 382
- Location
- Essex/Suffolk border
Wanted to print an intake flange for a 2 barrel holy on a V8, rather than fabricating one.
What are the materials like with heat, normally design in PPS for injection moulded stuff
PhillipM
Member
- Messages
- 2,991
Shouldn't be an issue with most PA6+CF or HTN (PA12/6 hybrids with nucleasing additives), or even PPS itself, although all benefit from annealing afterwards, as you don't really have enough chamber temp in a bambu, especially for larger parts.
120-180c operating temps aren't an issue with those.
120-180c operating temps aren't an issue with those.
Have been thinking the same questions about inlet manifolds and wondering about the pa6-cf filaments etc.
Is there anything you do to help it? Know some say 0.6mm nozzle preferable etc, preheat and filament dryer is essential etc.
Is this all true and any tips/tricks please?
PhillipM
Member
- Messages
- 2,991
Preheat definately, filament drying beforehand also mandatory (beware most consumer dryers don't go hot enough for technical materials) - a larger nozzle moving slower tends to keep intra-layer temperatures up so can help but it's not really something that can't be mitigated through other techniques.
Good CHT style nozzles help a lot by keeping the melt temp closer to the nozzle/heater temp.
Insulating the chamber with some 3mm foil faced foam helps a lot with the preheating and maintaining chamber temp too, as well as insulating the door and glass top (although I just throw a towel over mine
)
Good CHT style nozzles help a lot by keeping the melt temp closer to the nozzle/heater temp.
Insulating the chamber with some 3mm foil faced foam helps a lot with the preheating and maintaining chamber temp too, as well as insulating the door and glass top (although I just throw a towel over mine
)I was minutes from pressing the button on the X1C with EMS until iNf threw a curve ball. I am not keen of paying money I don't need to but can't find anyone with an X1C and a P1S to compare apples with apples.
My Old Landy
Engineering Mayhem
- Messages
- 3,288
- Location
- North Lincs
I am happy with my P1S as I don't do exotic materials. I did want the X1C and would buy one if I had the money.I was minutes from pressing the button on the X1C with EMS until iNf threw a curve ball. I am not keen of paying money I don't need to but can't find anyone with an X1C and a P1S to compare apples with apples.
I wouldn't buy one now as the P1S is enough for me in that size.
I spent a lot of time tonight and feel my plan was to upgrade to not the best but the easiest and possible future proof.
Given this video
I will be happier to utilise the space tidying my back room so I can build a sim Rig for my grandkids.....
Spuddevans
Member
- Messages
- 63
- Location
- Portadown, N.Ireland
Mine came with a High Temperature plate, Cold Temp Plate, and a couple of replacement Cold plate sticker-plates. (this was a year or so ago, so might have changed now) However, I now exclusively print onto some PEO and PEI build plates I got off Aliexpress https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005193378909.html
They work really well, no glue or any other adhesive-type additives, just wash them with washing up liquid, rinse, drip-dry, and then they are ready to use. Re-wash when/if you bed-adhesion wanes (only had to do that once in 6months)
They work really well, no glue or any other adhesive-type additives, just wash them with washing up liquid, rinse, drip-dry, and then they are ready to use. Re-wash when/if you bed-adhesion wanes (only had to do that once in 6months)
