I didn't mean that i could tell if they were good rods or not, just that i wasn't having the nightmare with them that some people have had with cheap rods. They seemed to outperform me at any rate.
- Thread starter Aesgarth
- Start date
A bit more practice today, seeing a little bit of distortion of the workpiece....
Top of the pad. I'm having occasional trouble getting the slag off.. usually it comes off fine but sometimes I have a hell of a job with it.
And a bit of a bead on the side of the square bar...
I'm also having real trouble following straight lines.. even with my mask on its lightest setting i can't see very well.....
Top of the pad. I'm having occasional trouble getting the slag off.. usually it comes off fine but sometimes I have a hell of a job with it.
And a bit of a bead on the side of the square bar...
I'm also having real trouble following straight lines.. even with my mask on its lightest setting i can't see very well.....
Kent
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Perhaps because some people blame their tools too quickly and you accept the fact that the weakest link might not be the rod? That doesn't mean that cheapo rods are not hindering you in the learning process though
Kent
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If you cant see it you cant weld it, aged over 40? been for an eye check up of late? Other than that check your lenses are not smoked up, your lighting is good enough then your head is in the right place to see the pool forming
Under 40. Not had an eye test in ages but i can see fine without the mask on. It just seems too dark when it switches, it's ok for mig amd tig - i can see what I'm doing fine for that. I'm probably just doing it wrong.
TurtleDude
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As a noobie welder, and only having tried stick, I can also say I find it hard to see where the stick is in relation to the metal. More like guesswork actually. 
I thought that's just 'how it was', having not tried MIG or TIG yet.
I thought that's just 'how it was', having not tried MIG or TIG yet.
rich r
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Having the right helmet makes a huge difference, as does illuminating the work area well. A self-darkening helmet is pretty much a necessity for most people as it enables you to get everything exactly where you want it before you strike the arc, without losing track because you've had to move your head or where you're looking to bring in the filter.
You should be able to see the workpiece, the rod and more importantly the weld pool if you've got the correct shade filter.
You should be able to see the workpiece, the rod and more importantly the weld pool if you've got the correct shade filter.
TurtleDude
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I just had mine turned up to max as I was scared of damaging my eyes. What settings do you chaps use for skick melting (outdoors)?
Wendelspanswick
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I tend to have my mask fairly low, 10-11 shade level, for stick but I tend to weld outside so I guess my pupils are quite constricted.
Bill Edwards
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Anywhere between 9 and 11, depending on the amperage being used.
Adjust it until you can see what you're doing; if it's too light you'll struggle to see as the arc will be too bright, and if it's too dark you'll have a real uphill struggle.
Don't worry about eye damage, the mask will already be protecting you from that. Just fine tune it, as we all have different eyesight and jobs vary.
TurtleDude
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Many thanks Bill.
Connor Brown
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- england Suffolk.
Connor Brown
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Bill Edwards
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I suggest resisting the temptation to weave and always do multiple runs instead. Weaving can be useful if done correctly, but multiple runs will typically be stronger, and it is very easy to mess up a weave, such as slag inclusions as mentioned by Kent. The only time I can really suggest weaving is with vertical up, where I find it works well.
Slag peel tends to be a sign that the current is about right and it's nice to see, but there's more to aim for!
Slag peel tends to be a sign that the current is about right and it's nice to see, but there's more to aim for!
