- Thread starter citizen kane
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citizen kane
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Belt was my original intention and I have a frame gate that I can fit but Gates have withdrawn their small front cog due to problems with belts skipping.
Trying to fit a larger front ring makes it nearly impossible to have any mud clearance and reading about other peoples experiance with belts it just dosnt seem to be worth the hassel. Lets face it, a chain is pretty cheap and reliable, I've been running the same chain and sprockets on an Alfine 8 for nearly 2 1/2 years and its used every day off road to get to work, sure the teeth are hooked but it will stay in place until the day it skips.
Trying to fit a larger front ring makes it nearly impossible to have any mud clearance and reading about other peoples experiance with belts it just dosnt seem to be worth the hassel. Lets face it, a chain is pretty cheap and reliable, I've been running the same chain and sprockets on an Alfine 8 for nearly 2 1/2 years and its used every day off road to get to work, sure the teeth are hooked but it will stay in place until the day it skips.
chunkolini
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Belt drive on push bikes? a bit OTT I think.
Chains and sprockets are cheap and easy to adjust ratios to suit.
I have a mate who has a Moulton with a 14 speed rohloff hub, amazing and bonkers.
Chunko'.
Chains and sprockets are cheap and easy to adjust ratios to suit.
I have a mate who has a Moulton with a 14 speed rohloff hub, amazing and bonkers.
Chunko'.
citizen kane
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Moulton and a speed hub, I'm with Julie Andrews, those are few of my favorite things
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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Check out the way the Dutch make a bike winter proof.
1: chain with a cover to prevent the salt rusting the chain
2: hub gear
3: drum brakes for all weather braking.
When I first came to the Netherlands I also thought that one should have a sturdy mountain bike, but no I see the light. The only problem that could be forseen is that the bikes are too heavy when they are placed in mountainous terrain.
1: chain with a cover to prevent the salt rusting the chain
2: hub gear
3: drum brakes for all weather braking.
When I first came to the Netherlands I also thought that one should have a sturdy mountain bike, but no I see the light. The only problem that could be forseen is that the bikes are too heavy when they are placed in mountainous terrain.
chunkolini
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Mountain bikes?
Most of them are overweight junk that look like mountainbikes.
my full suspension Marin weighs about 25lbs and kicks ass up and downhill.
For road use full suspension is a silly waste of time.
My main bike is an old kona hardtail, a Kileauea in 96 it would have been topdog, very light and fitted with 1" slick tyres works great, round here everywhere is uphill, in both directions and the roads are terrible.
A also ride a recumbent, had it so long I have forgotten the name, a Radius Dino, long wheel base jobbie. Lush.
I have seen some of the dutch town bikes and they tend to be awful to ride anywhere that is not flat, too heavy, not enough range of gears and sat far too upright. Not being contentious or anything here.
but I have seen mad dutchmen touring on them. One guy was wearing tweed plus fours, hub geared town bike and was in Glencoe. Barking mad, but admirable.
Bikes? dont you just love them.
I have a 10 mile commute, on a good week I will use four bikes, I can even do it offroad all but the last half mile.
NTwoo, did you post a link somewhere for your velomobile or whatever they are called, the enclosed recumbent thingy. More pics please.
Is this becoming a thread hijack?
Chunko'.
Most of them are overweight junk that look like mountainbikes.
my full suspension Marin weighs about 25lbs and kicks ass up and downhill.
For road use full suspension is a silly waste of time.
My main bike is an old kona hardtail, a Kileauea in 96 it would have been topdog, very light and fitted with 1" slick tyres works great, round here everywhere is uphill, in both directions and the roads are terrible.
A also ride a recumbent, had it so long I have forgotten the name, a Radius Dino, long wheel base jobbie. Lush.
I have seen some of the dutch town bikes and they tend to be awful to ride anywhere that is not flat, too heavy, not enough range of gears and sat far too upright. Not being contentious or anything here.
but I have seen mad dutchmen touring on them. One guy was wearing tweed plus fours, hub geared town bike and was in Glencoe. Barking mad, but admirable.
Bikes? dont you just love them.
I have a 10 mile commute, on a good week I will use four bikes, I can even do it offroad all but the last half mile.
NTwoo, did you post a link somewhere for your velomobile or whatever they are called, the enclosed recumbent thingy. More pics please.
Is this becoming a thread hijack?
Chunko'.
NTwoO
More skill with grinder than welder
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Newer versions are alu framed with 8 speed shimano hub gears. The 7 speed Sachs/SRAM and 7/8 speed Shimano has a reasonable range. The Dutch bikes are mentioned since they really know how about year round bike usage. Chain guards is in my opinion the only way forward if you wish to go for a robust solution.
link in the "what do you drive" thread. There is a photo in one of my photo albums, but nicer photos can be found on the web. My lathe thread has a photo of my home built recumbent. Will be documented some time. Guess this bit is a slight hijack, but the Dutch bike design is fully relevant seeing the main goal of the bike being built.
citizen kane
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Last stages.
Mitreing seat stays.
Trial fit.
Finished frame, bit rusty after a night soaking in a puddle to remove flux.
Next I need the BB faced and chased and the head tube reamed for the headset.
Mitreing seat stays.
Trial fit.
Finished frame, bit rusty after a night soaking in a puddle to remove flux.
Next I need the BB faced and chased and the head tube reamed for the headset.
chunkolini
celebrity artiste
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Very impressive, again the adjustable jig is very nice. Can we have a close up of the brazed joints.
Flux removal? I do a lot of brazing and find just leaving the workpiece hangig around for a few days softens it, my guess is that it is Hygroscopic and absorbs water from the air (long term memory, is that the right word) I then clean it off with a wire brush on a bench grinder, leaves a lovely polished finish.
What are you doing for the back brake, I cant see any signs of caliper mounts.
Chunko'.
Flux removal? I do a lot of brazing and find just leaving the workpiece hangig around for a few days softens it, my guess is that it is Hygroscopic and absorbs water from the air (long term memory, is that the right word) I then clean it off with a wire brush on a bench grinder, leaves a lovely polished finish.
What are you doing for the back brake, I cant see any signs of caliper mounts.
Chunko'.
darren.a.roberts
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Hi,
Very nice work. Out of interest did you build the bender? A very nice bit of kit indeed!
regards
Darren
Very nice work. Out of interest did you build the bender? A very nice bit of kit indeed!
regards
Darren
citizen kane
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As requested, close up of the silver brazing, its only used to hold on the cable guides, you can still see a bit of flux left from the soaking. I'm sure that I'm getting the joint to hot and this causes the flux to turn to horrible black glass like substance.
Options for dropouts can be seen in this pic, either conventional single speed or a Maxel thru axel for gears.
Darren, benders are home made after several attempts with commercial benders failed.
Options for dropouts can be seen in this pic, either conventional single speed or a Maxel thru axel for gears.
Darren, benders are home made after several attempts with commercial benders failed.
chunkolini
celebrity artiste
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I thinj the glassyness is normal?
I usually have a small brass hammer that i use when it has gone this hard, give it a gentle tap and it cracks and can be wire brushed off.The brake bosses are on the mountings?.
Chunko'.
I usually have a small brass hammer that i use when it has gone this hard, give it a gentle tap and it cracks and can be wire brushed off.The brake bosses are on the mountings?.
Chunko'.
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Lovely work there CK, that really does look fantastic.
Looking forward to seeing the finished bike all built up.
If it's ok with you I may upload all the photos to the forum server just in case anything happens to them on photobucket.
I'd hate to see a great thread like this full of these as has happened many, many times on here.
Looking forward to seeing the finished bike all built up.
If it's ok with you I may upload all the photos to the forum server just in case anything happens to them on photobucket.
I'd hate to see a great thread like this full of these as has happened many, many times on here.
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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How do the rear drop outs work, do you have to spread them to get the spindle in or is it like a motor bike where you put the spindle through when the wheel is in place?
Through axles work like the motorcross ones. Slide it through, tighten the cap at the end. On forks they have 4 M5 bolts clamping the axle on either side but they don't seem to have used that on the rear.
What size is the axle on the rear CK? I've heard of 10mm, 15mm and I use 20mm on my forks.
What size is the axle on the rear CK? I've heard of 10mm, 15mm and I use 20mm on my forks.
citizen kane
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Picture of rear wheel fitted.
This dropout is for a traditional quick release and as you can see a disk mount as well. Ignore the gears, these dropouts are for single speed only, no rear mech mount included. The advantage with whole dropout sliding is the caliper slides as well.
The other dropout option I have is a 12mm thu axel. Its designed to use the Rockshox Maxel system which is a thru axel that is threaded into the droput and finally locked into postion with an over centre cam similar to the normal quick release.
If I run single speed I will go with the Maxel dropouts, if I use my hub gear then that will be bolted into the normal QR style dropouts.
The dropouts are from Paragon Machine Works and while the stainless weld to part is expensive the alloy dropouts are pretty cheap and avialable in loads of different configurations.
This dropout is for a traditional quick release and as you can see a disk mount as well. Ignore the gears, these dropouts are for single speed only, no rear mech mount included. The advantage with whole dropout sliding is the caliper slides as well.
The other dropout option I have is a 12mm thu axel. Its designed to use the Rockshox Maxel system which is a thru axel that is threaded into the droput and finally locked into postion with an over centre cam similar to the normal quick release.
If I run single speed I will go with the Maxel dropouts, if I use my hub gear then that will be bolted into the normal QR style dropouts.
The dropouts are from Paragon Machine Works and while the stainless weld to part is expensive the alloy dropouts are pretty cheap and avialable in loads of different configurations.
citizen kane
Member
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Done at last. Many thanks for everyones interest in my project over the last few months. Time to buy some more tubes and start again.
