- Thread starter Fossy
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Jlg
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Yes there is a 6mm plate welded to the trailer chassis where the suspension goes with 6 10mm bolt holes in it for the indespention units to bolt to and if you ever need to change the units you just un bolt them from the plate that you welded to the trailer I'll put some pictures up tomorrow of mine for you one more thing my boat and trailer are 41 years old so the way it's done must be good the only thing I had to do was change the suspension units for pice of mind iAd I would recommend you Change your trailer from rollers to bunks so much easier to launch and recover than rollers
Jlg
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All in about 400 kg
Jlg
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I'm of to do that now
Jlg
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Jig that’s great, slightly different how I’m thinking because you have your big box section underneath, still think 6mm will be enough??
Also while your on this, if I’m welding thick 6mm plate to some 3mm box section, my welder only really works at 150max amps so I’m wondering if this is still enough as I will penetrate the 3 mill but not the 6mm if you get me.... sorry for the late reply been working! I have w mates welder I can borrow but would like to use mine obvs... (it’s a Clarke 151 en hobby welder)
Also while your on this, if I’m welding thick 6mm plate to some 3mm box section, my welder only really works at 150max amps so I’m wondering if this is still enough as I will penetrate the 3 mill but not the 6mm if you get me.... sorry for the late reply been working! I have w mates welder I can borrow but would like to use mine obvs... (it’s a Clarke 151 en hobby welder)
Jlg
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The bit underneath is the suspension unit that's how came from the factory 40 years ago and I would borrow a welder if you could otherwise the only thing I can think of is to preheat the metal but you'd be better borrowing a bigger welder I'll put some more pics up for you
Jig thank you, I think I’m literally going to go with bolting the metal plate to the box section rather than weld, puts strain on the bolts but my engineering friend has given me 10mm plate for the same
Price as 6mm as he can’t be arsed getting the 6mm cut
Thanks for all your help mate I’ll put some picture up in a week after I have started to tackle it
Price as 6mm as he can’t be arsed getting the 6mm cut
Thanks for all your help mate I’ll put some picture up in a week after I have started to tackle it
Jlg
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Ok when you bolt it make sure you use the nuts that are squashed on one end I don't know the proper name but there better than nylock nuts
I design and make trailers for the utility industry etc, having seen some outrageous repairs to such devices over the years i would suggest a couple of things if you are set to go ahead with this. Lowering by this amount will really reduce not only your c/g and loading height, which is good generally, but will crucify your departure angle and ramp break over clearance, and ground clearance generally. really think about why you are lowering it.
Secondly, before welding a road going device weighing 600 kgs that could travel at 50mph past a bus stop on a bumpy road, why not have a practice on some steel plates/box of the same thickness as you are planning and post your results up here for comments/ advice?
Thirdly, if you do use the seperate suspension units, then you must make sure that the stub axles are exactly in line and concentric with each other or it will crab along wearing out tyres and acting weirdly every time it moves.
Secondly, before welding a road going device weighing 600 kgs that could travel at 50mph past a bus stop on a bumpy road, why not have a practice on some steel plates/box of the same thickness as you are planning and post your results up here for comments/ advice?
Thirdly, if you do use the seperate suspension units, then you must make sure that the stub axles are exactly in line and concentric with each other or it will crab along wearing out tyres and acting weirdly every time it moves.
Pitmole,
Thank you for your wise words, I actually went and got the plates welded and measured in the end professionally by an ex retired marine fabricator so it’s all been measured etc accurately, I got the first plate painted and bolted yesterday, I have gone with 4 M12 high tensile bolts and then a high tensile U bolt on the end, few pictures here but will take some more today
Thank you for your wise words, I actually went and got the plates welded and measured in the end professionally by an ex retired marine fabricator so it’s all been measured etc accurately, I got the first plate painted and bolted yesterday, I have gone with 4 M12 high tensile bolts and then a high tensile U bolt on the end, few pictures here but will take some more today
Picture below of the metal plate and it being welded(professionally) onto the 50mm box, first holes at the beginning are for an L piece as the actual trailer box has welds at the end and makes the whole plate un even, I then have two bolts drilled in to go right the way through on not sides and then an overhang towards the centre of the trailer for the U bolt! Coming along well
normspanners
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you can also use the suspension units upside down, to lower the trailer, because they work both ways, ie the arms are in a 'central' position at moment used with arms 45 deg down, you can use them 45 deg arms up and they still work fine, a lot of traffic light trailers use them in the up position to overall lower the trailers, for loading light units on easier, with shorter ramps , then you can use 13" or larger wheels and still have a low trailer and adequate clearance. BUT have a much better stable ride from the larger tyres. It also means you can run larger tyres at lower pressures and benefit from the 'suspension' in the tyres.
normspanners
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It doesnt seem to effect the load I have one here, it was designed for traffic lights BUT I use it for loading alkinds on,I have carried more than a ton of stone in it fine, the trailer probably designed for 400 kg , it is very low, also not all units are at 45 degs ( most are ) but some, I think knott, do some that are the arms are more at 20 degs ish. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/KNOTT-AV...015396?hash=item5b4378d1a4:g:xi0AAOSw8W5adFmq
The upside down ones are fitted obviously with the arms still 'backward' facing . You can make thick spacer tubes for the bolts and have the plate at the bottom.
The upside down ones are fitted obviously with the arms still 'backward' facing . You can make thick spacer tubes for the bolts and have the plate at the bottom.
