like the old comer two strokes ,,, the pistons come together , so its a two cylinder twin crank shaft set up ,
not like a bmw boxer or a Porsche boxer set up ,,, cant be many of them about
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not like a bmw boxer or a Porsche boxer set up ,,, cant be many of them about
They do but at 8k rpm plus that may not be enough. If he say nah we ran bombproof forged steel cranks we will rule flex out.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Commer_TS3
sorry , two ms in commer ,,, not seen one of those in a long long time
sorry , two ms in commer ,,, not seen one of those in a long long time
No, exacly like Porsche and Subaru, Boxer configuration all of them, single crank
ah , sorry , when you said , pistons come together i was off on a different train of thought.
Agroshield
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As others have said, you cannot cast iron around iron, but there is nothing in principle to stop you casting aluminium around iron.
The search term you need is 'multi-metal casting'.
E.g. https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/ETD/Available/etd-042517-105246/unrestricted/Soderhjelm.pdf
The search term you need is 'multi-metal casting'.
E.g. https://web.wpi.edu/Pubs/ETD/Available/etd-042517-105246/unrestricted/Soderhjelm.pdf
This would be very convenient because my furnace is only meant for aluminium and precious metals. Ive got loads of junk cast iron I can experiment pouring it on too. A thick layer of that might work and because its light I could use more. The lower temps should avoid heat stressing the iron. Thanks Agroshield, this might become a thing!
I think you need to fix the cause and not the result.
Nobody is trying to fix a broken engine, I think you got wrong end of the stick. We know what causes these engines to fail in the end and unsurprisingly, its the only bit you can't swap for better uprated part, the block.
They are designed for 130 bhp. We tune them for 200 plus. Thats the cause ultimately so reinforcing that block to prevent failure is what you looking at.
500e
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Presume 16v 1.7 boxer type 33What is knocking out the block flex, vibration, broken rods /
If nothing broken I would start looking at vibration it can be very destructive
Here is what it did to a turbine engine in a few hours & it did not feel rough
pressbrake1
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I have seen what the op suggested done
Iron being immersed need to be pre heated to 800c and acid cleaned and fluxing agent
Iron being immersed need to be pre heated to 800c and acid cleaned and fluxing agent
slim_boy_fat
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Matchless
I started with nothing, still have most of it left
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ditto
Some time (years ago) I got interested in pouring aluminium into the top 20mm or so of a cast iron block (the block was a RoverM16), the object being to shorten the height to something sane to match the conrods and pistons I wanted to use. I never actuall tried it, there were other issues - head stud location/strength being one.
I allways thought the ally would shrink away from the cast iron, but maybe I should have persevered?
This problem of the crank wanting to go in a different direction to the head is an age old one - Rover partially solved it in a production engine, but the bean counters cocked up the rest of the K series. I've heard that Honda did it, but never been inside one that did.
I allways thought the ally would shrink away from the cast iron, but maybe I should have persevered?
This problem of the crank wanting to go in a different direction to the head is an age old one - Rover partially solved it in a production engine, but the bean counters cocked up the rest of the K series. I've heard that Honda did it, but never been inside one that did.
I read a bit of the article and its quite involved to calculate things. Trial and error, trying different types of flux with moten scrap aluminum on cast iron junk and then hammer testing might be the way to find the trick to it.
Tempted to add enough to allow a bigger bore, while I'm at it. Then I could run a shorter stroke crank without losing capacity. Shortening the stroke is the real fix to breaking these engines at high rpm anyway. The longer the stroke the more sideways forces on the block. This is why bike engines are short stroke.
Tempted to add enough to allow a bigger bore, while I'm at it. Then I could run a shorter stroke crank without losing capacity. Shortening the stroke is the real fix to breaking these engines at high rpm anyway. The longer the stroke the more sideways forces on the block. This is why bike engines are short stroke.
Agroshield
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Another way of looking at the situation is that you need a strong exoskeleton around your existing block. That is easy, and with 3D scanning techniques and CNC machining, you could get something that fits quite closely. And then inject the gap that remains with epoxy resin. Aeroplanes are glued together these days.
It slightly goes against what you are trying to do, but you could machine a bit off what you have so you have a known geometry (rather than a slightly random casting) and then make your skin a tight fit.
It slightly goes against what you are trying to do, but you could machine a bit off what you have so you have a known geometry (rather than a slightly random casting) and then make your skin a tight fit.
yeah, with with V engines but this is a Boxer, where everything is inline. The problem here is the piston and rod wanting to go sideways out of the engine rather than straight because at a certain load, going side ways, through the thin iron block is the path of least resistance.
Its inclined to go that way the long standard stroke means a larger journal radius of travel.
Found a good casting aluminum! A20X. They reckon its strong as billet 7000 series!
If this works Ill use the method to add suspension mounts to the gearbox and go inboard double wishbone and coil over rears!!!!
Subaru?!!!! NO!!!! this is going in (the back of) my 4C if it works
