I really cant see how two dissimilar metals together would work , with the thermal cycle on engines etc , then again they did glue liners into some ford engines , and then machine them down at the top and bores and they did ok , granted it was diesels
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i had an 850r estate t5 , and have a c30 t5 polestar at the moment .
maybe a thought though ,,, would the block bore and sleeve , gaining rigidity ,,, better burst resistance
Yes Darton Sleeves are actually a better solution to the Focus ST 5 pot issue, although pegs seemingly work too. We’re both thinking along the same lines, in terms of adding rigidity.
Yes, the standard boxer is iron block no liners. sleeves are the key, I'd come to that conclusion myself. Bloody strong thick steel ones.
After Ive encased the block with aluminium alloy using the multi metal cating method, we can machine it for the sleeves we want.
My plan is to make mould out of plaster of paris for casting and space it away so when you pour the aluminium, you fill the gap and end up with whatever thickness added you want and still looks normal, standard. I think half inch of A20X + steel sleeves = bomb proof.
After Ive encased the block with aluminium alloy using the multi metal cating method, we can machine it for the sleeves we want.
My plan is to make mould out of plaster of paris for casting and space it away so when you pour the aluminium, you fill the gap and end up with whatever thickness added you want and still looks normal, standard. I think half inch of A20X + steel sleeves = bomb proof.
no small undertaking , ill look forwards to seeing the pictures and reading the thread
yeah, with with V engines but this is a Boxer, where everything is inline. The problem here is the piston and rod wanting to go sideways out of the engine rather than straight because at a certain load, going side ways, through the thin iron block is the path of least resistance.
Its inclined to go that way the long standard stroke means a larger journal radius of travel.
Found a good casting aluminum! A20X. They reckon its strong as billet 7000 series!
If this works Ill use the method to add suspension mounts to the gearbox and go inboard double wishbone and coil over rears!!!!
Subaru?!!!! NO!!!! this is going in (the back of) my 4C if it works
Anyone who could put head studs all the way into the main bearings of a v engine deserves a medal....
So the thrust forces on the boxer are enough to stress the block into submission? Must be some harmonic vibrations or something going on Ally might help if you can make it stick.
Yeah but Ive seen enough Ford V that snapped the maincap out of the crankcase. They laser cut 10mm steel sump braces that solve it. I know I had one done for a 2.8 cologne.Then the heads lift and break or bearing spin or something.
Just sent a message to the supplier of this super casting aluminium A20X and asked for some to evaluate. If I try various fluxes, surface prep and preheating and suss it, I'm laughing. I'm hoping the supplier volunteers some useful info. They might know exactly what flux or whatever will work. Even without an ultra strong, it should work if the aluminum goes all round because the block is captive inside.
Cast A20X is as strong as 7000 series billet apparently. Half inch jacket of that will hold the buggers in
Just sent a message to the supplier of this super casting aluminium A20X and asked for some to evaluate. If I try various fluxes, surface prep and preheating and suss it, I'm laughing. I'm hoping the supplier volunteers some useful info. They might know exactly what flux or whatever will work. Even without an ultra strong, it should work if the aluminum goes all round because the block is captive inside.
Cast A20X is as strong as 7000 series billet apparently. Half inch jacket of that will hold the buggers in
one last thought Im not familiar with how the piston crowns look but ,,, before you start ,, is there any offset on the gudgeon pin , maybe the pistons could be put in backwards and valve pockets re cut to change the thrust line slightly ,,, just as i said a final thought...
Was the 850r yellow? I’ve always had a soft spot for those but I’ve never owned a Volvo, the closest I’ve came was my Focus ST. I used to chuckle whenever I worked on it, it was covered in Volvo stickers and stamps which just seemed strange.... Parts were often cheaper through Volvo which was a bonus though. The 5 pot is a fantastic sounding engine too!
mine was a burnt orangy gold colour , a jap import ,, yep the sound of one of those fives working hard is amazin ,, after that i moved into a 3.2 a3 quattro ,, and they have a different noise , but oh so addictive but driven reasonably hard it would return between 6 and 8 to the gallon ,, it had to go , hence the c30.
I can picture the colour actually, it’s interesting that they’re being imported there must be a healthy interest in them. Values are certainly increasing with nice ones being advertised for good money.
My least economical car was (well is as I still have it albeit in bits) my 24v Granada. If driven hard it will sustain 2/3mpg, although fortunately you soon run out of road or encounter a bend and have to lift off. What a car it must have been when new, although they were frighteningly expensive!
May not be allowed under regs though? Although I’m not sure if the OP races or not. Plus messing around with old engines is fun (some of the time)....
Rig Pig
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Trying to recast a jacket round a block sounds like an expensive way to add some twist to it!
I enjoy working on engines and anything mechanical but when the costs start to add up I look for a cheaper option.
Gareth J
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Will take your word for what's needed. What about fabricating some steel ribs, cut closely to the shape of the casting and cold (or hot if you can stomach the logistics) weld them to the case with nickel rods? Some profiled 12 or so mm plate would add something. Maybe you can't weld steel to iron like that?
Morris
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I'm struggling to understand this.
The Alfa boxer is not known for block issues as far as I know (the block is bloody heavy for the size!). The crank is very short and rigid. It's a short stroke design and will take overbores easily.
Yes there is a rocking couple on the crank but enough to push the block apart? A sump girdle would solve this.
The OP's description is vague. Some photos would help.
The Alfa boxer is not known for block issues as far as I know (the block is bloody heavy for the size!). The crank is very short and rigid. It's a short stroke design and will take overbores easily.
Yes there is a rocking couple on the crank but enough to push the block apart? A sump girdle would solve this.
The OP's description is vague. Some photos would help.
So the OP is an idiot, or a liar then?
If he races them to destruction, i'd hazard he's not an idiot, and I'm not going to call anyone a liar....
There you go....
