Compressor leaking

[jackofalltrades]

Hello everyone, I'm new here and new to air tools.

Recently I bought a project car to work on and bought a small compressor to help with tough bolts.

Its a tiger airmaster 8/25. I understood from here this means 25 litre tnk capacity and 8 cfm.

I am running a sealey air wrench which, last time I used it, failed to remove wheel bolts which I managed to do by hand! The wrench is new so I'm guessing its not that but the compressor is s/h (which I am sure I overpaid for).

There is a leak coming from near the on/off switch-I've illustrated where on the pics. (Fourth pic with arrows)

Finally there is a cover with an 8amp label which keeps opening, could someone tell me what this is for? I have stuck some tape over it to stop it opening. pic is attached.
Could anyone tell me what the solutions may be to the many problems I am having. I haven't used te compressor since the whel bolt "incident".

Thank you

 

[rtbcomp]

Welcome to the forum.

That 8amp thing looks like an overload trip. It will switch off if the motor stalls.

Need some more info on the leak. Does it leak only when the pump is running or once it's stopped, with pressure in the tank.

It is normal for it to hiss briefly when the pump stops.

 

[tigler]

Ok , the 8 amp item is an overload trip. If you are using the compressor on an extension cable this will cause the motor to struggle when starting , draw to much current for too long and pop the trip. If you are not using an extension cable there is some other reason for overload.
The air leak will be eminating from the pressure air feed to the pressure cut out switch , you will find a connection is loose and needs tightening or the tube or pipe to the switch has a leak.
The wheel nut issue , if you are using an air ratchet , they don't have a lot of torque. They are designed to quickly spin up or off, fasteners , then the ratchet is used like a normal hand ratchet to apply the final torque or the loosening torque. If you want an air tool to loosen tight fasteners by itself you need an impact gun. Also , the air hose to this type of tool needs to be 1/2" or 12mm in new money , so that the tool can work at full torque.

 

[rtbcomp]

That thin black pipe (unload pipe) is to empty the delivery tube, it is NOT the pressure feed to the switch. A leak there could be a faulty unload valve or a faulty non-return valve.

 

[pedrobedro]

The bit your arrows are pointing at is an electrical connection.

 

[jackofalltrades]

Wow, I'm amazed at the quick responses-everyone is so helpful here.

Tigler, I am using an impact wrench, a Sealey GSA01 which I'm sure should have enough juice.

Rtbcomp, the leak is only when the pump is running and stops once the tank has filled.

I have heard a lot about these non-return valves givng problems. Does anyone have a step-by-step guide on how to change one?

 

[tigler]

I think he meant it was coming from that area ?

 

[tigler]

Tigler, I am using an impact wrench, a Sealey GSA01 which I'm sure should have enough juice.

What size air hose are you using ?

 

[rtbcomp]

......
Rtbcomp, the leak is only when the pump is running and stops once the tank has filled.

I have heard a lot about these non-return valves givng problems. Does anyone have a step-by-step guide on how to change one?

I would say the non-return valve is OK.

As Tigler says it could be the connection between the unload valve and the pipe, or the valve itself.

 

[tigler]

This is what I was thinking , it's normally a push in nylon tube. Either the fitting is loose in the switch body or the tube is split or not fully pushed in.

 

[jackofalltrades]

This is what I was thinking , it's normally a push in nylon tube. Either the fitting is loose in the switch body or the tube is split or not fully pushed in.

I am using this: Sealey Heavy Duty Air Hose 10mtr x Ø8mm with 1/4” BSP Unions

Manufactured to ISO2398. Rubber alloy air hose suitable for garage or body shop applications. Supplied fitted with 1/4” BSP female swivel unions. Black hose supplied in pre-fitted lengths.

Specifications
Model No: AH10RX
Ø Bore: 8mm (5/16”)
Length: 10mtr

That thin tube was not in properly and I pushed it as far as possible but the air is actually coming from right in between those two electrical connections. I took the box cover off and it felt like the air is coming right from the bottom of the box where the metal portion is bolted to the plastic part.

 

[rtbcomp]

Can you disconnect the plastic pipe and run the comressor and see if air still leaks at the switch. (Air will come out of the plastic pipe big time, but should stop if you stop the motor).

 

[tigler]

That air hose isn't large enough bore , it will be very restrictive to the power available from the tool. 1/2" is minimum for impacts and ratchets in my experience.

The air leak , check that the fitting that the thin tube pushes into is tight in the switch body.

 

[rtbcomp]

.......

The air leak , check that the fitting that the thin tube pushes into is tight in the switch body.

Actually it may not have to be, it connects to the relief valve which is sometimes a loose fit on the baseplate, it may just be held in place with a circlip.

 

[tigler]

Like a bulkhead fitting. In that Case it would be a leak from the other side of the fitting.

 

[rtbcomp]

Like a bulkhead fitting. In that Case it would be a leak from the other side of the fitting.

Yes, it would be the unload valve itself not seating correctly.

 

[jackofalltrades]

That air hose isn't large enough bore , it will be very restrictive to the power available from the tool. 1/2" is minimum for impacts and ratchets in my experience.

The air leak , check that the fitting that the thin tube pushes into is tight in the switch body.

That was the hose recommended with the wrench! What do you suggest? I plan on getting a bigger compressor but I'm not sure of the brand-its RODA. Have been told they are made by ABAC but marketed as RODA. Any experience? On the other hand, I have seen petrol ones on ebay by LTS.

Anyone know of these companies?

 

[tigler]

The hose recommendation doesn't surprise me , many tool suppliers don't know what they are selling ! You need 1/2" bore hose.
Back to compressor brands. These small hobby compressors are generally just generic units branded and badged by big importers or distributors. They mainly come from Italy and China. I have heard of Abac , pretty sure they are a big distributor. If you decide to go for a bigger machine , go for a belt drive unit which run at a lower speed and last longer. Clark , Machine Mart , etc are probably as good as any as you would have a warranty and someone to sort it in the event of a problem.

 

[jackofalltrades]

Thanks for your reply. The regulator on the compressor only has a 1/4" fitting so will that not also cause restriction on air flow regardless of hose diameter?

Another worry I have when thinking of buying another unit is cfm. The airmaster has 8cfm which should be adequate for the wrench as the manual says 5.6cfm required. I understand most compressor run slightly less then what is stated but what would be the recommended cfm for powering air tools such as a wrench, ratchet and grinder?

 

[eil]

The 8 in 8/25 means its max working pressure not its cfm, more than likely you are not getting enough pressure at your impact gun, these small compressors have a very restrictive feed from the tank to regulator.
have a look through this thread
http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/showthread.php?t=12961