Moose McAlpine
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What about inconel?
My mate 3D prints inconel heatsinks for F1 intercoolers.
My mate 3D prints inconel heatsinks for F1 intercoolers.
Gonna try a heat tube from RS at £20 for two plus the machining cost which isnt going to be alot at all as it a partner of our company.Thats about 7kg, is it forwelding heatsink, power electricsor sensitive electronics?
If its to make a finned heatsink it will be hard to beat a mass produced one, particually where heatpipes are used.
Heatpipes need to be tuned for the system. You need the working fluid to be evaporating and condensing and that wont happen with one deaigned for too much heat. If its too small, the fluid will never condense and the performace will be poor. With either its little better than the plain heatsink design.
Very difficult to beat water cooling if thats an option. Ive made some miniture water blocks that add the minimum annoyance to maintaining a system. The risk of a leak is very small.
Also consider weight and torque. Chips are fragile. Big heavy heatsinks, or hoses can /have crushed parts, so smaller can be better. is hour camera fixed or moving around?
Ive got a small lump of pure silver I made a water cooling block with years ago. The specific heat is about half, it performs better than the numbers would suggest.
Peltiers are risky, theres a good chance of bad condensation, freezing or cooking your part if you dont have it quite right.
It does not take much to lower coppers conductivity, but a free sintered part should be adequate. I have used FS copper and worked well, although mine were cold pressed/formed after.
Copper can also be grown to complex shapes. 3d print a negative finned former, coat with conductive paint. The copper will grow onto it. To get good quality it is a very slow growing process.
All you need is copper sulphate, a lump of scrap copper, and electrolysis.
Iv got thermo couplers at work and have a few other bits ordered to use with this set up only thing is im working from home a few daysIt would be useful if you could track the temperature of each part - e.g. the camera, the heatsink & ambient air around the heatsink - that way, it should be possible to calculate where the problem is, and what you'd need to do to solve it.
That’s what the manufacturer suggestsWhat about a vortex tube ?
Mount it new the camera, feed it compressed air and direct the cold output at the camera.
Then they probably know it works....That’s what the manufacturer suggests
Costs over £500 plus the heat sink and delivery
I’d hope soThen they probably know it works....
Do you know how that fixes down?I’m a bit late replying on this thread so ignore if this is no longer relevant, what about a big cpu heat sink:-
HP 419898-001 ProLiant DL585 G2 heatsink Heat Sink for Processor CPU Spares | eBay
1 x HP 419898-001 Processor Heatsink. In Good Condition And In Full Working Order. ADH 178013 (-30). AJ 83982 -3. AJ 69577 -4. AJ 62343 -2. AJ 50932 -2.www.ebay.co.uk
The camera as mentioned previously in the threadUsually a sprung clip on those, but plenty of CPU heatsinks have various sized or multi-adaptable screw fixings. Without knowing exactly what you're cooling and the room/mountings you have it's tricky to recommend anything but there's a lot of cheap CPU heatsinks and fans out there complete with heatpipes already fitted...
Can they be machined to fit the camera tho, tends to be not much meat and small contact area? Originally there was talk of a 4mtr piece of copper and I got the impression it was passive but looks like I was wrong there going by recent posts.I'd imagine so, there's CPU heatsinks out there that will deal with 200+ watts at a 50c differential
x4mtr. Was what the stockist misquoted on the price it’s £1100 for 4x4” x4mtrCan they be machined to fit the camera tho, tends to be not much meat and small contact area? Originally there was talk of a 4mtr piece of copper and I got the impression it was passive but looks like I was wrong there going by recent posts.