Copper Piping

[SmartWerks]

Thinking about it, I'm going to use soldered joints. A lot cheaper and maintenance free and should be less prone to failure.

 

[daleyd]

http://www.screwfix.com/p/ideal-twister-341-twist-on-wire-connectors-pack-of-100/63342

Those are wire nuts...horrid things and a major cause of electrical fires in the usa....but they still keep using the horrid things

I've never seen those before! They look pretty poop though, they remind me of electrical connections we used to get on American machines from my previous company.

European (French) made machines came with nice terminal blocks in the motor, with clamping nuts for the power cables.

American made machines came with bare conductor tails out of the motor which you were supposed to crimp in a similar fashion as those, with the incoming power cables. It looked awful (ie 30 years out of date), and made replacing the motor even more difficult than it should have been.

 

[Kent]

I have both blue alkathane and grey house piping with compression fittings and LINERS in my pump house, pressure is not an issue! I should use steam pipe if you wanted the ultimate in strong, I have however pumped my plastic up to 30psi without failure. it was specified by and all the original fittings were done by a specialist company

 

[DanielW]

Silly question but.....has anyone thought of using a small radiator for the condensation trap line instead of piping?

Ones like those upright bathroom stainless steel type.....mind you copper pipe will be cheaper. :-)

 

[SmartWerks]

Silly question but.....has anyone thought of using a small radiator for the condensation trap line instead of piping?

Ones like those upright bathroom stainless steel type.....mind you copper pipe will be cheaper. :-)

quite a few videos on YouTube of people using car radiators as condensers

 

[dan.taylor.1]

Car rads are usually only rated to what, 2bar? house rad sounds a good idea, though even if you use plastic pipe a copper coil could be put inline to aid cooling and condensing.

 

[SmartWerks]

Stainless steel wouldn't be a good choice for a cooler as it doesn't radiate heat very well?

 

[SmartWerks]

Car rads are usually only rated to what, 2bar? house rad sounds a good idea, though even if you use plastic pipe a copper coil could be put inline to aid cooling and condensing.

The cap is rated as a pressure relief, a decent rad would cope I imagine and a lot of yanks seem to use them without issues. Copper coils seem popular too,but my pipe bender is only good for the roll of 10mm copper piping I have.

 

[Bill Edwards]

I would never contemplate using a car radiator for an airline cooler/condenser.

I think that even modern stuff typically only has a maximum pressure of about 1 bar. The cap is set to release pressure at this point as the safety link so neither the radiator or rubber pipes blow.

Put 10x as much pressure in and you could end up with a serious injury when it lets go.


Some intercoolers may be suitable if placed after a regulator to keep the pressure down, perhaps for spraying.

 

[brightspark]

i have a couple of myson wall convector radiators with fan blowers on them. there 15mm and will take the pressure i just cant be bothered to conect one up though

 

[DanielW]

i have a couple of myson wall convector radiators with fan blowers on them. there 15mm and will take the pressure i just cant be bothered to conect one up though

I;m guessing you hurt yerself when you let rip? lazy old sod.

 

[DanielW]

Stainless steel wouldn't be a good choice for a cooler as it doesn't radiate heat very well?

If the stainless steel rad doesn't radiate heat very well then why do they use these rads in bathrooms? I do feel I should get the housing to change mine as it doesn't seem to heat the bathroom up very well and believe it or not its a very small room,something like 6ftx6ft? and in winter its still coldish for getting a shower.

Any evidence for backing stainless rad up as a poor radiator to install in the bathroom so I can sling it on their desk for confirmation to change it.

 

[brightspark]

its more of a towel warmer in the bathroom and take the cold air off the room

 

[SmartWerks]

If the stainless steel rad doesn't radiate heat very well then why do they use these rads in bathrooms? I do feel I should get the housing to change mine as it doesn't seem to heat the bathroom up very well and believe it or not its a very small room,something like 6ftx6ft? and in winter its still coldish for getting a shower.

Any evidence for backing stainless rad up as a poor radiator to install in the bathroom so I can sling it on their desk for confirmation to change it.View attachment 58976

Stainless doesn't radiate very well, and as brightspark said that's a towel warmer. Go for the stainless in the bathroom if your keeping towels on it otherwise it will rust like mine has!

 

[MattF]

Thinking about it, I'm going to use soldered joints. A lot cheaper and maintenance free and should be less prone to failure.

I've always preferred soldered joints over unions or push fits. They all work in general use, but I personally just trust soldered joints more.

 

[MattF]

its more of a towel warmer in the bathroom and take the cold air off the room

Is it the simple rail design without a large surface area which makes those somewhat inefficient as a radiator, the choice of metal or both?

 

[SmartWerks]

I've always preferred soldered joints over unions or push fits. They all work in general use, but I personally just trust soldered joints more.

That was my feeling, lot bloody cheaper too!

I seen some ring fittings which i think are also called Yorkshire fittings that have a bead of solder, i think these will be better for me. I've only soldered once before and made a good job but them ring fittings look like a simple piece of kit?

 

[brightspark]

That was my feeling, lot bloody cheaper too!

I seen some ring fittings which i think are also called Yorkshire fittings that have a bead of solder, i think these will be better for me. I've only soldered once before and made a good job but them ring fittings look like a simple piece of kit?

u still need to add a dab of solder on the yorkshire fittings even though they have the solder ring , u need a nice clean pipe and fittings and use an acid flux as well

 

[MattF]

I seen some ring fittings which i think are also called Yorkshire fittings that have a bead of solder, i think these will be better for me. I've only soldered once before and made a good job but them ring fittings look like a simple piece of kit?

I prefer the basic ones. Like Brightspark says, you'll still likely need to add some solder. The problem with those presoldered ones, if you don't, is knowing exactly when you've reached the flow temp of the solder. Using the standard fittings, you know when your solder is flowing, how well you've applied it and how much.

 

[SmartWerks]

u still need to add a dab of solder on the yorkshire fittings even though they have the solder ring , u need a nice clean pipe and fittings and use an acid flux as well

This was the video I watched as it was like 7 years since I soldered some piping, only done a couple for a sink and the only time I've done it so couldn't remember what the process was

it shows the solder running out, I suppose adding some solder is just a bit of insurance and better than finding leaks once everything is together?