Correcting faults in metallic black

[langy]

If you screwed up just flat the panel back then rebasecoat and the clear within the alotted time.
There is fade out thinner but thats usually used for blowins as far as i'm aware.

The front of my F100 was very upright and used to suffer a lot of stonechips, I blew in the front 10 inches twice with fadeout thinner, this is how i do it

a light coat of basecoat just past the repair
then another basecoat thinned 50-50 a further inch or so
then 3 coats of lacquer each thinned 50-50 with fadeout thinner overlapping a little extra each time, the last coat is virtually all thinner.
Then flat and polish across the hazy join and polish the whole panel, can you see the join ???

As the first post stated, I'm repairing a fault in the basecoat, so I'll have to respray some base anyway. Then clear over the whole thing.

To keep this on topic; I've read about blending thinners, sprayed over freshly painted clearcoat to help it "sink in" to the surrounding good paint. Does anyone have any experience with these, or is it better just to reclear the whole panel?

 

[pedrobedro]

Have you tipped the bonnet and put it next to a door ???

Why would I ???? If the top of a wing looks the same as the side of a wing I'm happy

 

[langy]

I think your missing my point

Why would I ???? If the top of a wing looks the same as the side of a wing I'm happy

 

[Grrrmachine]

Time to resurrect this thread:

I sprayed my body shell today, from the roof to the sills and the pillars, scuttle, rear quarter panels and valance.

Now I've taken all the masking off, I can see a tiny line at the back edge of the roof where the base coat didn't go on enough, so it's light primer grey. This is the actual lip that the window meets, which means it will be visible when the car is reassembled.

Is there a way to fix this without re-spraying the entire roof?

 

[steveo3002]

grey scotch pad an area beyond where you need to repaint

mask off the rest off the car but leave the roof bare

dust on some base coat to cover your bare spot

tack cloth the area once the base has dried

clear coat over the basecoat being carefull to just cover the base

one more coat going out slightly further

empty the clear from the gun and put in blening thinner ...mist blending thinner over the clear coat edge...with practice it kinda melts in

carefully polish once cured

 

[vdubz]

If you screwed up just flat the panel back then rebasecoat and the clear within the alotted time.
There is fade out thinner but thats usually used for blowins as far as i'm aware.

The front of my F100 was very upright and used to suffer a lot of stonechips, I blew in the front 10 inches twice with fadeout thinner, this is how i do it

a light coat of basecoat just past the repair
then another basecoat thinned 50-50 a further inch or so
then 3 coats of lacquer each thinned 50-50 with fadeout thinner overlapping a little extra each time, the last coat is virtually all thinner.
Then flat and polish across the hazy join and polish the whole panel, can you see the join ???

[That pickup looks bloody lovely]

 

[norsa]

I think your missing my point

Give up Langy. you are clearly not getting through. I know exactly what you are saying and you are 100% on the nail. Reflection and refraction. To go a stage further, i will never be able to match your sprayed mets as i am left handed. Same principle. Steveo, cracking explaination. And Raf, i like the cut of your jib sir.

 

[the snooper]

Give up Langy. you are clearly not getting through. I know exactly what you are saying and you are 100% on the nail. Reflection and refraction. To go a stage further, i will never be able to match your sprayed mets as i am left handed. Same principle. Steveo, cracking explaination. And Raf, i like the cut of your jib sir.

you commented on a post from last year been there done that check the dates

 

[Grrrmachine]

That's an excellent explanation steve, and thank you. I was worried that I was going to have to basecoat the whole roof again, but based on what you're saying I can just scuff the local area.

 

[steveo3002]

if you have enough clear left over , id still consider doing what i siad but clear coat over the whole panel

what i described takes a bit of pratice to get right , would be more suited to a bumper corner for a first timer

 

[pedrobedro]

I'd clear the whole panel if not confident of using the fade out technique, the roof is always going to be looked at and anything on it will jump out at you.

 

[busastars]

Nothing to do with the faults but was wondering what Black is that, where did you get it from, I'm quite liking it.

 

[the snooper]

im with steveo, as the roof is more head height you may be better to clear the full panel as any lines between old and new laquer may be more visible its not really really difficult but it does take practice and you gain knowledge as you go

 

[Grrrmachine]

When I say that it's the lip of the roof, it really is the lip; from the top, you wouldn't see it, but standing at the back of the car to open the tail gate you'd just notice it.

My plan would be to use grey wool to scuff probably three inches back from the lip, use back-masking up against the lip and gently blow in some base coat, then move the masking tape back an inch and blow in a bit of clear, another inch another coat, another inch another coat, and then spray it with fade-out thinners. Would that work?

Nothing to do with the faults but was wondering what Black is that, where did you get it from, I'm quite liking it.

The paint is made by a company called Profix (http://www.multichem.pl/en/products/paint-mixing/mixing-system/cp99.html). The basecoat is CP99, the clearcoat is CP1500, and the colour is BMW Diamond Metallic Black 181.

 

[steveo3002]

can you post a picture of the area?

 

[Grrrmachine]

I'll upload a photo tonight and let you more experienced gentleman make the final call over whether the whole roof needs clearing.

If the roof DOES need another coat, how aggressively should the existing paint be sanded? Will a grey scuff pad be enough, or too harsh?

Such basic questions...

 

[norsa]

grey scotch is perfect. see if i understand it right, youre doing a soft mask for the base? this will still show. you need to blend it all much further to hide it. Lets have a look at the pics eh.

 

[MG David]

Rather than masking tape which gives a hard edge you could use something that will give a fuzzy edge. I have found that newspaper wrapped around foam pipe insulation works quite well. Better if it is for 28 mm pipe rather than 15mm.

 

[steveo3002]

i wonder if he means the shut for the tailgate...if so ive got a nifty masking trick for him

 

[norsa]

love little tricks. never too old or too proud to learn. Does it involve making a roll out of 1" ? When i ran my business, my man from Worth sold me a roll of self adhesive foam piping to run in door shuts for soft masking.