ajlelectronics
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I use 50/50 diluted pva (ie wood) glue. Paint it on and it'll just wash off if required.
Screwdriver
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I use hairspray with very good results (exclusively with PETG).
I just grabbed whatever they had in Poundland. Because I’m worth it.
I just grabbed whatever they had in Poundland. Because I’m worth it.
ajlelectronics
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The FR4 has been cut to size and cleaned with IPA on a paper towel. First nylon test going down now. First impressions are good, the prime stripe needed a little tug to remove, rather than just falling off. We shall see in a couple of hours.
I am hearing odd ticking noises that suggests that the print is coming loose.
I am hearing odd ticking noises that suggests that the print is coming loose.
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ajlelectronics
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This morning's testing is going to be FR4 with Pratt stick. Then later I will try FR4 sanded to 240 grit. Then finally with Magigoo although that defeats the object of course!
I used to use hair spray but I lost the can. I was ordering some filament and thought blow it let's try 3D lac.
Never had a problem with it on PLA and glass bed.
I use ABS slurry when printing with my ender 2.
I have another ender 2 that I have not touched for 12 months I intend to set up for PEtG but I have never printed with petg before.
ajlelectronics
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You can see that is was starting to let go at the left side. It hadn't gone quite that far until I opened the door, although it could of course be coincidental.
ajlelectronics
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So far it is adhering nicely to sanded FR4. We will see when it gets a little further. I did take the trouble to re-level the base, even though the BL Touch is meant to deal with it, I reckon that it can only handle a small error in flatness.
ajlelectronics
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Well that didn't go too well!
ajlelectronics
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FR4 and Magigoo is even worse...
ajlelectronics
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Looks like the PCB is warping with the heat, so may be that causing all the detaching. It is interesting that in all cases the right hand side, nearest the edge remains attached.
That issue of the brown marks and the "flash" is present on every print so far. I put the brown mark down to contamination from the PETg, but it is the same every time.
That issue of the brown marks and the "flash" is present on every print so far. I put the brown mark down to contamination from the PETg, but it is the same every time.
Screwdriver
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PETG, 90º bed, 240º print, hairspray.
This is with the makeshift screen and I'm half tempted to try some ABS I've never managed to stop warping.
This is with the makeshift screen and I'm half tempted to try some ABS I've never managed to stop warping.
I've never tried Nylon, but won't it be very prone to warping due to the high temps involved, so will ideally need a heated enclosure?
ajlelectronics
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Just done a quick search about the requirements for Nylon.
From - https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printing-nylon-filament-heres-why-and-how-you-should-use-it
Might struggle for that bed temp on a standard Ender :/
From - https://rigid.ink/blogs/news/3d-printing-nylon-filament-heres-why-and-how-you-should-use-it
Might struggle for that bed temp on a standard Ender :/
ajlelectronics
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ajlelectronics
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Still playing with these bushes and have now made the full set of CAD files. One minor irritation that I can't work out for now is the ID of the bushes. It is supposed to be 16.3mm yet comes out at 15.90. OK, easy to sort and that dimension was increased in CAD by 0.5mm. The mystery is that it produced no change whatever in the printed ID?
The squared off bush took some designing. I made it from 3 separate rings in the end. I have yet to test print one of those but I may do over the weekend. My test print tonight detached from the bed halfway through again, but at least I was able to confirm that the ID had not increased.
The squared off bush took some designing. I made it from 3 separate rings in the end. I have yet to test print one of those but I may do over the weekend. My test print tonight detached from the bed halfway through again, but at least I was able to confirm that the ID had not increased.
Possibly something to do with wall thickness, and infill (I'm assuming you're going for 100%?), so the slicer is rounding to the nearest nozzle width/stepover.
Does the 15.9 workout to a multiple of nozzle width away from the OD?
