Diesel Heater exhaust

[Olderisbetter]

I am really looking to get one of those diesel heater with the water connection on to give me a warm water supply in a small storage tank i have, has anyone set up anything like that?

 

[bigegg]

I am really looking to get one of those diesel heater with the water connection on to give me a warm water supply in a small storage tank i have, has anyone set up anything like that?

i keep seeing them mentioned in the facebook groups, but never heard of one being bought, fitted, or used.

 

[500e]

[/ATTACH] Friends heater we installed about 6 months ago the first 6\7 ft pipe gets to 42deg bu the time it leaves the building it is ambient 150 x4mm pipe.
No problem with soot have a condensate drain hole close to burner & a heat shield for silencer v plaster board made

 

[500e]

Ran a wast oil burner with copper coil round flue & a heat exchanger in tank about an hour you had to mix cold to wash your hands

 

[gaz1]

for god sake you need the heater lower if you want it to be really effective in heating the place up

storing it high up will over heat it before the thermostat shuts off

you need the item as low as possible and thermostat at a higher place to get the best possible use of the heater

remember if run on tick over turn it higher before shutting it off to aid in burning out the soot

 

[qwakers]

also the air intake needs to be vented outside also otherwise it can emit co into the garage.

 

[bigegg]

also the air intake needs to be vented outside also otherwise it can emit co into the garage.

as well as that:
if your air intake is inside, you're taking heated air and sending it outside via the exhaust.
two problems with this:
1. hot air is less dense, so heater is less efficient.
2. the air has to be replaced. which means cold air is dragged in through gaps in the structure.: cold draughts. you're bringing in cold fresh air which then has to be heated. so the internal twmperature takes longer to reach target.

if you take your combustion air from outside, the air inside is heated repeatedly so reaches your target temp. faster plus hot air is higher pressure, so it stops the draughts.

and using denser, cold, air means more oxygen in the burn chamber, so hotter "flame", and less unburnt fuel vented from the exhaust.

 

[500e]

Ducted air is blow by fan along the big tube which is now exhaust so there is no waste heat from that, heater, is at tick over & workshop is comfy 19deg.
Tenp is even from 75mm to roof after running for 1\2 hour, looked at external air into burner but another hole in the wall though, (a thought for later).
There is 200mm of insulation in roof void, but walls are rendered single block & no insulation under slab,(bade mistake)
The big pipe does condense & at present has a drain pipe let in but we are going to slope it a degree to let water drain from end which is outside.
The original idea was a small domestic oil burner direct in pipe but to noisy,no room to lower pipe to floor level as it would require machines to be 150\ 200mm from wall
What he needs is a bigger workshop

 

[500e]

Same burner still running 4 years later.
The inlet is still indoors, the exhaust has now has1.5 deg slope to get rid of condensation outside.
Played with outside air inlet could not measure any difference to fuel consumption over 24 hours
We run it about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, striped to look at carbon build up, it was not worth stripping, so it must be pretty efficient burn.
As said cant lower the exhaust, as it would require machines moving out from wall, the fan blows over it and circulates the radiant heat from it. runs at tick over at night to keep the equipment toasty.
The CO alarm has not shown any leakage.
No problem with Tstat
So we have found the same a @fizzy they are a good cheap WS heater

 

[fizzy]

Same burner still running 4 years later.
The inlet is still indoors, the exhaust has now has1.5 deg slope to get rid of condensation outside.
Played with outside air inlet could not measure any difference to fuel consumption over 24 hours
We run it about 1/4 to 1/2 throttle, striped to look at carbon build up, it was not worth stripping, so it must be pretty efficient burn.
As said cant lower the exhaust, as it would require machines moving out from wall, the fan blows over it and circulates the radiant heat from it. runs at tick over at night to keep the equipment toasty.
The CO alarm has not shown any leakage.
So we have found the same a @fizzy they are a good cheap WS heater

Ours always run flat out. Nice to know throttling back makes no difference either!

 

[500e]

We think the exhaust makes a difference to the burn characteristics @fizzy , not tried it on standard exhaust as the original Idea was a small pressure burner strait into the pipe. (noisy in smaller shop)
We had run pressure burners them into 2 large stacked gas cyl with 2 x 3inch connecting pipe joining them. Also 2 x 8 x 4 ft 1/8Inch thick sheets a 4inch band welded around to make a box with a zig zag baffle between burner let into lower corner.
This was in a 50 x 20 ft WS had a slow fan blowing the hot air around