Electric chainsaw sharpener fail

[Kram]

File isnt bad but no need to use one of those holders, better without. Looks like that needs two hands and the bar clamped in a vice..? Not something to use with the saw over your knee.

I rarely file but did one yesterday for the fun of it before clearing some more ivy from the old fence and the ground, then hit a hidden brick It was dark, I was working by floodlight.

Then did 3 chains on the grinder. My changes have greatly improved it, it is now precise enough to do the smallest 1/4" pitch chains, every tooth the same angle and length, and I can set it to take off only a hair thickness.

Now I just need to replace the spring and tension the chain with a sprocket, like the automated ones do.
I need to do a few more chains, going to try re wiring to see if I can make motor reversable - to reduce the burr it leaves on left handed cutters.


One problem Im finding with my limited space is how to store and organise my vast collection of new and used chains, its becoming a mess!

 

[JOEPRO]

File isnt bad but no need to use one of those holders, better without. Looks like that needs two hands and the bar clamped in a vice..? Not something to use with the saw over your knee.

To be fair most people don't sharpen a chainsaw unsecured over the their knee either. And this is simple to use IMO.

Not a huge deal either way - sharpen how you wish

 

[Kram]

I disagree about that, most profesionals wont take a saw home to sharpen on a bench, or want to do it at the yard after a long day. It will be done in a wet muddy field/garden/site when they need it, and if your lucky there will be somewhere not too muddy to sit, a bonus if its dry!

Anyway I never used the Oregon one but I suggest its worth giving it another shot. Feed the wheel very lightly and intermittently to let it take just a little bit at a time as that seems to give best results for mine.
I found if I feed mine hard, it twists and changes the angle and in effect, leaves the tip blunt.

 

[reb78]

I disagree about that, most profesionals wont take a saw home to sharpen on a bench, or want to do it at the yard after a long day. It will be done in a wet muddy field/garden/site when they need it, and if your lucky there will be somewhere not too muddy to sit, a bonus if its dry!

Anyway I never used the Oregon one but I suggest its worth giving it another shot. Feed the wheel very lightly and intermittently to let it take just a little bit at a time as that seems to give best results for mine.
I found if I feed mine hard, it twists and changes the angle and in effect, leaves the tip blunt.

I did a test at the weekend.

I've always sharpened by hand with a file.

I bought a lidless sharpener and used it to quickly recover a chain I effed up on a stump that was more granite than wood. But I touched the grinder chains up with a file afterwards.

I noticed my hand sharpened stihl and oregan chains weren't feeling all that sharp and not for that lo g so did a couple straight off the electric lidl grinder. These were much better and sank into the logs much more like the new oregon chains did.

I've normally done a good job with a file but the sharpener can do it for now. Like you say though. Light touches needed. And run round a couple of times if needed.

 

[Old Dog]

This thread got me thinking about sharpening chainsaw chains. I always used files but did buy one of those chain grinders, used it for a while but it never seemed to be sharp and I felt the chains went blunt fast, so went back to file kits. I had a few idle few moments spare so I put on my glasses and looked closer. In the photo from the left is 2 x 115mm cutting disc's, new on the bottom worn on the top as you can see it's changed shape. Next is a 3/8" LP chain with a 4mm file, a 0.325" chain with a 4.8mm file and a 3/8" with a 5.2mm file as per Stihl instructions. The bottom one is a worn 4mm file it's still 4mm and round. A grinder uses the same stone for all chains. Back to the feeling the chain blunts quick, if you use a grinder it adds heat and we, being on a welding forum should all know what heat does to a tempered steel, so a coolant should be used.!!! The Alloy angle bit on the bottom is a scrap bit that is 3.225 times bigger than a standard Stihl 3/8" cutter. The red end has been cut with a cutting disc at top plate angle of 30 degrees and a side plate angle of 60 degrees, the blue end has been sharpened to the same angles with a 16mm burr (3.225 x 5.2mm = 16.77mm) as you can see the finished shape is totally different which is why ALL! chain manufacturers and instructors on the chainsaw cross cut and maintenance course recommend to hand file. Ohh and things get really difficult if you run square ground or Stihl Hex chains. Sharpen a chain on my leg!! no thanks I'll use a spare chain, Jam the bar in a part cut log or use a log vice.

 

[JOEPRO]

I disagree about that, most profesionals wont take a saw home to sharpen on a bench, or want to do it at the yard after a long day. It will be done in a wet muddy field/garden/site when they need it, and if your lucky there will be somewhere not too muddy to sit, a bonus if its dry!

Anyway I never used the Oregon one but I suggest its worth giving it another shot. Feed the wheel very lightly and intermittently to let it take just a little bit at a time as that seems to give best results for mine.
I found if I feed mine hard, it twists and changes the angle and in effect, leaves the tip blunt.

I will give the oregon a go again yes. Will be a couple of weeks time until I get to it. Seems like most people here reporting good results have the lidl version but worth a try to see if there is something I can do differently.

Regarding heat and bluing the chain, by taking small "pecks" with the grinder that can be avoided which is one thing I definitely got right. I think maybe I took too small a cut with it. Hence why I'll try again on another chain.

As said, I think the Stihl manual file did make for an exceptionally sharp chain IMO and it has won a few product tests in that regard so it's not just me.

Alot of different opinions here and that's quite interesting. I do wonder is one man's interpretation if a sharp chain different to the next though.

 

[DAPPH]

For give me Joepro, those abrasive discs look like 4 "hand held reinforced electric grinder discs.
My disc on my new Lidl machine ( Now hidden away till Crimbo by my lass ) is a red ceramic looking carbide , had a similar but pink stone on the commercial Oregon sharpener I used to use almost on a daily basis .
eBay number 403472256564 and ebay number 304893368963

 

[JOEPRO]

For give me Joepro, those abrasive discs look like 4 "hand held reinforced electric grinder discs.
My disc on my new Lidl machine ( Now hidden away till Crimbo by my lass ) is a red ceramic looking carbide , had a similar but pink stone on the commercial Oregon sharpener I used to use almost on a daily basis .
eBay number 403472256564 and ebay number 304893368963

I didn't post any photos of the disc I was using?

But since you ask:



It came with a wider disc too. All made in China. (I prefer to fund Germans support European made products)

 

[DAPPH]

WHOOPS ..It's should have been old Dog I commented upon .

Re supporting Eu products .
Today I got a packet of jigsaw blades .........made in Germany , in tiny letters on the back of the back product of China .......... So was the label made in Germany or the plastic case ?

 

[JOEPRO]

WHOOPS ..It's should have been old Dog I commented upon .

Re supporting Eu products .
Today I got a packet of jigsaw blades .........made in Germany , in tiny letters on the back of the back product of China .......... So was the label made in Germany or the plastic case ?

Yes there is alot of misleading marketing at times. Such as many brands which call themselves Germany in the name but are made in China. Or even the way lidl put a German flag on alot of boxes and it says designed in Germany. But at a glance it's a gimmic to make you think or feel that it is made in Germany, while it's clearly not.

This is pretty clear on the 2 in 1 file.



Germany does produce superior quality products.

 

[Old Dog]

For give me Joepro, those abrasive discs look like 4 "hand held reinforced electric grinder discs.

They are standard 115mm cutting disc's as I said in the post, but the worn one is 100mm about the same as the chain grinder wheel. The wheel makes little difference its the angles that are important, also the fact that I'm not using the chain grinder on Aluminium when I have a worn disc that can be thrown afterwards.

 

[DAPPH]

Yes there is alot of misleading marketing at times. Such as many brands which call themselves Germany in the name but are made in China. Or even the way lidl put a German flag on alot of boxes and it says designed in Germany. But at a glance it's a gimmic to make you think or feel that it is made in Germany, while it's clearly not.

This is pretty clear on the 2 in 1 file.

View attachment 470067

Germany does produce superior quality products.

I wouldn't say that , I have spoken with many a German of late who say it's been the opposite for many years , then they tell of the car cheating scams etc, and legally rebadging things made in China , German wine sweetened with antifreeze and many supposedly pork sausages made in Poland with horse meat in them bearing th tri-colours of Germany on the packs

 

[DAPPH]

I put Are all sthill chainsaw sharpeners made in Germany into my search engine , here is the reply.

Response stopped

Sent by Copilot:​

Not all Stihl chainsaw sharpeners are made in Germany. While Stihl is a German company with a significant portion of its manufacturing based in Germany, it also has production facilities in several other countries, including the United States, Brazil, China, and Austria12. This global network allows Stihl to produce various components and products, including chainsaw sharpeners, in different locations.
If you have a specific model in mind, I can help you find out where it was made.


So, if just that one part with the writing on it is made in Germany it can all fictitiously carry the company badge ?

 

[JOEPRO]

I wouldn't say that , I have spoken with many a German of late who say it's been the opposite for many years , then they tell of the car cheating scams etc, and legally rebadging things made in China , German wine sweetened with antifreeze and many supposedly pork sausages made in Poland with horse meat in them bearing th tri-colours of Germany on the packs

I put Are all sthill chainsaw sharpeners made in Germany into my search engine , here is the reply.

Response stopped

Sent by Copilot:​

Not all Stihl chainsaw sharpeners are made in Germany. While Stihl is a German company with a significant portion of its manufacturing based in Germany, it also has production facilities in several other countries, including the United States, Brazil, China, and Austria12. This global network allows Stihl to produce various components and products, including chainsaw sharpeners, in different locations.
If you have a specific model in mind, I can help you find out where it was made.


So, if just that one part with the writing on it is made in Germany it can all fictitiously carry the company badge ?

Stihl do mark products with their origin accurately such as some newer domestic saws made in China and marked as such. And my Ms391 which has made in USA on the bar.

 

[mtt.tr]

Chain sharpening is the same as any other sharpening.

Cutting edge profile.
Most common mistakes I see is too much gullet or no gullet. Too much they grab, too little and it doesn't actually have a cutting face.

In regards grinders I have the expensive Oregon model it's only used when I've really badly damaged a chain otherwise it's all hand filed, you do learn to recognise when the file is at the correct position.


With guides the one I recommend is this style,

Husqvarna Combination Gauges

<h2>Husqvarna Combination Gauges</h2> <p>Our combination gauges are specially designed with a file gauge and depth gauge setter to put together in one tool. Use together with our round and flat files for a correct filing angle. Availabl

www.toolstoday.co.uk

The reason being is you get a better idea of file height on the tooth, remember that mental image then you can lose the guide.


I've been running saws for about 13 years.

 

[JOEPRO]

This looks like a new way to run a chain:

 

[Kram]

You meant ruin
A bit more care and control needed, he could have easily done without hitting the concrete and dropping in the dirt was a pure beginner mistake.

 

[fizzy]

I have an Oregon 310 mains powered chainsaw sharpener. Brand new. Set it up today and sharpened the chain on my Stihl 045. Followed you tube videos and made sure it was giving a full contact grind on all teeth and checked the rakers after which need a light file.

Result- not great at all. Looked great to the naked eye and perfectly straight grind but by hand I could tell it wasn't sharp but tried it anyway. Cut mostly OK but lots of fine dust and no real chips is a bad sign:

View attachment 468681

Back to the Oregon manual file kit. And this procedure:

Good rigid setup for filing in the vice.

View attachment 468682

I could tell the immediate difference with the teeth sharpness. They now felt properly razor sharp.

Proof is in the pudding:

View attachment 468680

One sharp saw putting out chips

View attachment 468683

Just a heads up that electronic isn't always best! The manual file got way better results than the new Oregon chain grinder. Fail!!

I will try using the electric grinder again to see if I can improve things. Maybe I didn't take enough of a cut?

I have tried a few electric ones - none worked well - back to the file for me as well