- Thread starter Smouser
- Start date
God mode restorations
Member
- Messages
- 8,147
- Location
- uk colchester
The lathe looks nice. Good work.This is as far as I got before it would not move anymore.
View attachment 415491
I pushed, I pulled, I swore, I sweated, but move it would not.
Unfortunately for the wife, she was the closest person to assist
Even with the two of us, it was not easy getting it into the garage transitioning between the driveway and the garage floor.
View attachment 415492
I also got an earful multiple times from the wife due to oil spillages and the state of the drive which I caused over the last few months.
I guess one of my next jobs is to paint some drive seal onto the drive again.
Due to my excessive hoarding and lack of space, I could not go much further into the garage otherwise I would not have been able to withdraw the pallet truck.
I had a rethink and swapped the trolley and pallet truck around and used my two engine skates for the front of the machine.
View attachment 415493
The garage floor is not very smooth and the engine skates kept sliding and turning, and I had to re-adjust them a few times until the lathe was in position.
I anticipated that I would have a problem withdrawing the skates/trolley/pallet truck from underneath the lathe so I ordered a Chinese toe jack. Unfortunately, it did not arrive in time.
The next best thing would be to put the lathe on machine feet.
@RobCox showed me his lathe's feet and spacers.
Very fancy!
View attachment 415494
Mine, however, not so much
View attachment 415495
At least the lathe was in the garage and I could get the pallet truck out from underneath it.
I was well-chuffed with my quick bodge job until a certain guy with fancy lathe feet and spacers pointed out that he hoped the lathe would not walk off the wooden blocks if there were ever to be an unbalanced workpiece in the lathe.
Doh
I guess it is a wait-and-see situation with a rework if needed.
Next up was using my precision level to get the lathe set up.
View attachment 415496
View attachment 415497
Perfect! #pinocchio nose
I installed the motor but could not find the old drive belts (they were knackered anyway and I must have thrown them out). I, therefore, used the super sophisticated method of measuring the inside length of the required V-belts by using a piece of electrical wire wrapped around the pulleys and then measuring the length of the wire.
View attachment 415500
I was approximately 1803mm. The closest SPZ belt with an inside length of 1803 mm is an SPZ 1837 belt (inside length 1799 mm).
There will be enough adjustments on the two motor mounts to make the belts work.
The main 'big' tasks remaining are:
Clean the three-jaw chuck
Fit the drive belts
Do all the wiring and set up the VFD.
I never did find a bargain branded 3kW VFD so a trusty Chinese AT1 VFD will have to do.
View attachment 415502
I believe the biggest 'problem' with this VFD is that you can't wire/setup a true emergency stop into it.
I am pretty sure I have read something like that before about these AT1 VFDs. Further investigation is required.
Finally, guess what turned up this morning.
Sigh
View attachment 415504
pressbrake1
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,541
- Location
- Essex
Unintentional vice spam 
I screwcut the 45mm 4tpi screws on my omnispeed after roughing out on my monarch lathe
I screwcut the 45mm 4tpi screws on my omnispeed after roughing out on my monarch lathe
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Is that a home made travelling steady you have fitted?Unintentional vice spam
I screwcut the 45mm 4tpi screws on my omnispeed after roughing out on my monarch lathe
View attachment 424519 View attachment 424520
pressbrake1
Forum Supporter
- Messages
- 5,541
- Location
- Essex
Yes
I’m actually struggling to find a manual for it, but going to assume that it’s 90% the same as the model that the digital pdf is available for.Welcome
I've never seen that type of gear change in the manuals... will be interesting to see your progress
Even the tailstock seems different
Do you have the nylon slipping clutch by any chance on the apron?
I’m quite new to engineering, so this will be a mammoth but exciting task.
Looking at running a VFD (for single phase use) and as many of the original features as possible, however I’ll have to get the motor out to have a look at the HP etc.
It has a handy star/delta plate (below) but the motor specs aren’t easily accessible without taking it out by the seems.
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I am running a VFD on mine and so is @Pawcu. My original motor was a little too big (and also 440v only) to be easily run on single phase power so I swopped it out for a 3kW one.
So far, I have not needed extra power.
I got my first lathe (Warco) just over a year ago and then refurbished my Elliott, I think you will be perfectly fine.
Loads of clever people on this forum who helped me with numerous things. If you ever get stuck, just ask, someone will be along shortly to sort you out.
In regards to the manual, I think you are correct, 95% of the things will be the same.
So far, I have not needed extra power.
I got my first lathe (Warco) just over a year ago and then refurbished my Elliott, I think you will be perfectly fine.
Loads of clever people on this forum who helped me with numerous things. If you ever get stuck, just ask, someone will be along shortly to sort you out.
In regards to the manual, I think you are correct, 95% of the things will be the same.
Yeah I am running VFDs on all my 3phase machines... so far no complaints 
If the manuals are correct you might have the 6hp version which might be a bit more expensive to find a VFD capable of that power however if you search around you should be able to find something. I also have a seller on aliexpress where i bought my VFDs from that has VFDs that can bump the Voltage up to 380V:
www.aliexpress.com
They should have one for 5Kw as well but you might have to message them for it.
Either way like you said, better confirm the plate of the motor... gdluck
And like @Smouser said most of the things should be the same so follow the manuals
When in doubt ask
If the manuals are correct you might have the 6hp version which might be a bit more expensive to find a VFD capable of that power however if you search around you should be able to find something. I also have a seller on aliexpress where i bought my VFDs from that has VFDs that can bump the Voltage up to 380V:
VFD 0.75kw 1.5 2.2kw 220v to 380v single phase input 380v 3 phase output AC Frequency Inverter AC drives /frequency converter Nf - AliExpress 13
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
www.aliexpress.com
They should have one for 5Kw as well but you might have to message them for it.
Either way like you said, better confirm the plate of the motor... gdluck
And like @Smouser said most of the things should be the same so follow the manuals
When in doubt ask
Managed to get big Bertha out (heavy lump) and cleaned the faceplate off (pictured). So I’ve got the details now, which helps inform my choices. There is a static phase converter in work I am going to have a closer look at (pictured), however I may switch her out for a smaller as you suggest and a VFD. I’ll keep on keeping on
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
Nice!Managed to get big Bertha out (heavy lump) and cleaned the faceplate off (pictured). So I’ve got the details now, which helps inform my choices. There is a static phase converter in work I am going to have a closer look at (pictured), however I may switch her out for a smaller as you suggest and a VFD. I’ll keep on keeping on
View attachment 425273 View attachment 425274 View attachment 425275 View attachment 425276
26.5 amps @ 220volt
A smaller motor is what I would have done (and have done).
With VFDs giving you variable speed and other benefits, I would not even bother with the static converter.
I don't know what your plans are for the lathe but 10hp seems a little excessive for home/hobby use
10hp? :O
Like @Smouser said, 10hp might be a bit excessive xD Will be easier to go with a smaller potentially more modern motor and couple it with a VFD
I am even more curious now about this machine - I cannot find anything in the manual about a 10hp motor variant... that coupled with the different front gear selector and tailstock makes we wonder if this is another variant that is not listed in the manuals? Do you have a serial plate on the machine that tells you the date and serial number?
Like @Smouser said, 10hp might be a bit excessive xD Will be easier to go with a smaller potentially more modern motor and couple it with a VFD
I am even more curious now about this machine - I cannot find anything in the manual about a 10hp motor variant... that coupled with the different front gear selector and tailstock makes we wonder if this is another variant that is not listed in the manuals? Do you have a serial plate on the machine that tells you the date and serial number?
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
I think it is was probably one of the last versions (most modern) of the Omnispeed lathes they have done.10hp? :O
Like @Smouser said, 10hp might be a bit excessive xD Will be easier to go with a smaller potentially more modern motor and couple it with a VFD
I am even more curious now about this machine - I cannot find anything in the manual about a 10hp motor variant... that coupled with the different front gear selector and tailstock makes we wonder if this is another variant that is not listed in the manuals? Do you have a serial plate on the machine that tells you the date and serial number?
I have read (on the lathes.co.uk site) that the Omnispeed was built and imported from Eastern Europe but there are no mention of the actual manufacturer/factory that made them.
The tailstock looks similar to the Elliott Concord lathe to me.
You're right it does look very similar... good eye!
Maybe they shared the same bed width?
Now that you mention it... the front speed selector also seems to be off a concorde:
I really do love these Elliotts. The older ones were amazing quality and made in Cardiff. I know the later ones are Eastern European but they turned out some pretty good machines as well and Elliott still had their reputation to think of. The high top speeds attract me - much better for carbide tools.
I’m hoping to have a bit of time next week to have a good nose around the machine and finally decide on a motor setup. I’m 95% sure I’ll go for the smaller motor and vfd setup (there are even ‘packages’ with a motor and matching VFD etc that I’m going to give some serious thought to).10hp? :O
Like @Smouser said, 10hp might be a bit excessive xD Will be easier to go with a smaller potentially more modern motor and couple it with a VFD
I am even more curious now about this machine - I cannot find anything in the manual about a 10hp motor variant... that coupled with the different front gear selector and tailstock makes we wonder if this is another variant that is not listed in the manuals? Do you have a serial plate on the machine that tells you the date and serial number?
As far as a serial etc goes, I’ll have to examine (and clean!) further, it’s not on the bed where a Colchester may be.
I’d love to find a manual dedicated to this model.
I live just outside of Cardiff (Wales) and would have really liked to have had a “local” model
If you can find a matched pair that would be great. Not sure how much that will cost you but vfds off aliexpress are quite cheap and tbh can't complain with mine... Though I don't use mine every day for prolonged periods so...
Regarding serial number I believe it should be just between the motor housing and the belt/gear cover. Mine is missing but I have empty screw holes there xD
Smouser
Member
- Messages
- 1,062
- Location
- Amesbury, Wiltshire, UK
One of the recent jobs I wanted to do on my Omnispeed was to make an insert for my boring bar holder.
The insert was supposed to be 40mm OD and 16mm ID.
However, I found that my tailstock was not aligned and I was turning a taper.
Headstock measurement 40mm
Tailstock measurement 39.94mm
0.06mm difference over a relatively short distance (approx 110mm). That would not do.
Luckily (or unluckily) @RobCox was coming my way and he promised to bring his precision level with him, which I could borrow to level the lathe and at least eliminate the possibility of a twist in the bed.
What a disaster of a device! I was up and down like a YoYo adjusting this lathe foot and then that foot, rinse and repeat x 100!
I seriously contemplated throwing his level over the wall. There is just no need for such a precision device in my life.
In the end, I settled for not 100% level but at least the readings were pretty similar on both sides of the lathe bed. I am sure it can be improved, but I am also sure it is NOT going to be me improving it.
Thank you @RobCox for providing the level and the free exercise!
With the lathe now 'level', I could focus my attention to try and align the tailstock.
I chose the method where you turn a bar down and measure the diameter at each end to measure the difference.
Unfortunately, I do not own a lathe-driving dog; therefore, I bent an M6 threaded rod to act as the drive for the sacrificial bar.
It won't work for heavy cuts but for skim cutting, it works perfectly.
The distance between the measuring points was approximately 320mm apart on the bar.
The initial readings:
Headstock end: 40.77mm
Tailstock end: 40.70mm
After numerous adjustments, a few cuts/passes, and trial and error I ended with:
Headstock end: 37.99mm
Tailstock end: 38mm
The confirmatory measurement:
Headstock: 38.83mm
Tailstock: 38.84mm
Perfectly fine for me!
The tailstock is now aligned with the headstock. At least at that distance and with that extension on the tailstock (3").
It will be interesting to see if there is much change for shorter distances from the headstock (the area of the lathe bed that is usually the most worn).
The insert was supposed to be 40mm OD and 16mm ID.
However, I found that my tailstock was not aligned and I was turning a taper.
Headstock measurement 40mm
Tailstock measurement 39.94mm
0.06mm difference over a relatively short distance (approx 110mm). That would not do.
Luckily (or unluckily) @RobCox was coming my way and he promised to bring his precision level with him, which I could borrow to level the lathe and at least eliminate the possibility of a twist in the bed.
What a disaster of a device! I was up and down like a YoYo adjusting this lathe foot and then that foot, rinse and repeat x 100!
I seriously contemplated throwing his level over the wall. There is just no need for such a precision device in my life.
In the end, I settled for not 100% level but at least the readings were pretty similar on both sides of the lathe bed. I am sure it can be improved, but I am also sure it is NOT going to be me improving it.
Thank you @RobCox for providing the level and the free exercise!
With the lathe now 'level', I could focus my attention to try and align the tailstock.
I chose the method where you turn a bar down and measure the diameter at each end to measure the difference.
Unfortunately, I do not own a lathe-driving dog; therefore, I bent an M6 threaded rod to act as the drive for the sacrificial bar.
It won't work for heavy cuts but for skim cutting, it works perfectly.
The distance between the measuring points was approximately 320mm apart on the bar.
The initial readings:
Headstock end: 40.77mm
Tailstock end: 40.70mm
After numerous adjustments, a few cuts/passes, and trial and error I ended with:
Headstock end: 37.99mm
Tailstock end: 38mm
The confirmatory measurement:
Headstock: 38.83mm
Tailstock: 38.84mm
Perfectly fine for me!
The tailstock is now aligned with the headstock. At least at that distance and with that extension on the tailstock (3").
It will be interesting to see if there is much change for shorter distances from the headstock (the area of the lathe bed that is usually the most worn).
Pete.
Member
- Messages
- 14,466
- Location
- Kent, UK
Don't mean to state the obvious, but if you paid attention to the words on the sign you wouldn't have put it in line with the chuck face
