123hotchef
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oh i have a few of those gravity guns i used a 2.5 for my L200 raptor job
- Thread starter Furiokid
- Start date
Al Strachan
Not Funny
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3m Rolok 36 grit discs in an air die grinder is my weapon of choice. A nice heavy hand keeping the grinder speed low gives a lovely
Rough key in for epoxy. Doesn’t take long with minimal elbow grease, gets into all the corners too.
Rough key in for epoxy. Doesn’t take long with minimal elbow grease, gets into all the corners too.
Burdekin
Chief Bodger
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80 is just like a thinnner version.
Jotun's range can be confusing. I have been using 80 because I thought it would brush better than 87 or 90. Now I am getting to the bottom of the tin I am wondering what to buy next.
The 1 to 1 mixing ratio of smart pack has an appeal. I also notice they have a primer called Penguard which has a narrower colour range. While I have seen it advertised for steel, my impression is it is more aimed at GRP and alloy. Has anyone used it?
The 1 to 1 mixing ratio of smart pack has an appeal. I also notice they have a primer called Penguard which has a narrower colour range. While I have seen it advertised for steel, my impression is it is more aimed at GRP and alloy. Has anyone used it?
Burdekin
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Penguard I have used it. It is a pure Epoxy, sprays nicely. I reckon rust buster rebadge this as their 421 epoxy.
Dcal
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It's a good paint but I think it is slightly fussier than the Jotamastic range, which is more suited for applications with less than perfect prep, i.e. not sa2.5
The express version is very useful if you need to get a job done quickly.
vw1
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I have used the rust buster 421 epoxy on my beetle and it does spray down well. I do find it expensive but good for smaller amounts. I'm using lechler at the moment.
Kram
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Does dcm/paint stripper remove epoxy primer? Doesnt seem to touch epoxy adhesive resin.
Ive been using dcm to strip some sheet, where I had glued in some brass threads. Dcm had no effect on the resin or paint below it. While I want the threads I was expecting to remove and redo. No problem to paint over it, just not what I expected.
Ive been using dcm to strip some sheet, where I had glued in some brass threads. Dcm had no effect on the resin or paint below it. While I want the threads I was expecting to remove and redo. No problem to paint over it, just not what I expected.
ajlelectronics
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Nothing bar a dangly grinder will shift epoxy primer. 
Well, abrasion anyway!
Well, abrasion anyway!
ajlelectronics
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Not something I have tried. My guess is that a good clean and flat would be adequate, but I would be concerned about dcm remaining present to pickle new top coats.
Kram
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I tried spraying the epoxy, it has not gone well. Lot of fish eyes everywhere, even on my test peice of cardboard - probably should have aborted at that point.
Should I leave this to harden or get it off quick?
Only one coat.
I used a 60ml syringe to measure out 20ml of each part. I think that is the cause, silicone oil may be used as a lubricant
So be careful what you mix and measure with. You'd think they wouldnt put silicone in medical products..
journalretinavitreous.biomedcentral.com
Should I leave this to harden or get it off quick?
Only one coat.I used a 60ml syringe to measure out 20ml of each part. I think that is the cause, silicone oil may be used as a lubricant
So be careful what you mix and measure with. You'd think they wouldnt put silicone in medical products..
Release of silicone oil droplets from syringes - International Journal of Retina and Vitreous
Background Intravitreal silicone oil droplets have been found in the vitreous. The aim of this study is to compare the rates of silicone oil released by different brands of commonly used syringes for intravitreal injection after agitation by flicking. Methods Three models of two brands of...
journalretinavitreous.biomedcentral.com
ajlelectronics
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That is silicone contamination alright! You are going to struggle to clean that up, so I would strip it, clean it really really well and maybe even
test it with a spray can of something you have lying around befor repainting with epoxy!
test it with a spray can of something you have lying around befor repainting with epoxy!
Kram
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Got 90% of the epoxy off. For inside the casting I just blasted it with thinners.
I used the syringe to suck from the epoxy tin, so the whole lot might be contaminated.
Will a wire brush, and a soak in thinners get rid of any sillicone? Its a rough machined cast iron surface.
Poundland white.. thats better. Got it all cleaned off.
I used the syringe to suck from the epoxy tin, so the whole lot might be contaminated.
Will a wire brush, and a soak in thinners get rid of any sillicone? Its a rough machined cast iron surface.
Poundland white.. thats better. Got it all cleaned off.
Last edited:
ajlelectronics
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All you can do is try again, hopefully the silicones were inside the syringe. I think you have a better than evens chance of it being fine.
Kram
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Another epoxy question. A shop has told me that epoxy is just for rust protection on metal, and that always need to use a 2k acrylic primer before colour. Is this correct? This doesnt seem right to me, if the epoxy is the correct primer colour.
Im avoiding 2k isocyante products, so if epoxy is adequate for priming I am happy.
Im avoiding 2k isocyante products, so if epoxy is adequate for priming I am happy.
ajlelectronics
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Utter nonsense. Some people like to because it is easier to flat, the downside being that you have then introduced a potential source of microblisters as conventional primers are hydroscopic (right word?).
I never introduce any other material to the epoxy coats bar the final colour.
carbon
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I’ve not used the lechler epoxy primer myself as I bought what my local supplier had. Octoral PE130 was what I’ve used and it does seem a bit harder when cured to flat. I didn’t see the need to add an additional primer just to flat it back again.
