Evaporust - first time user / review

[JOEPRO]

Somw of you will know I restore 90s MBs as a hobby. Therefore rust removal always interests me.

Heard of Evaporust on you tube etc for years but have never used it. Just bought a 5L jar from amazon UK for £40 and want to try it out.

First items were jack pump tubes which were rusted internally. They came out rust free 24 hours later.



Then I tried this wrench last night, so far so good. Just dunk em and leave it.

 

[nickk]

Impressive.

 

[JOEPRO]

I think it can be re-used also. I'm thinking of pouring it into a separate container for re use as I go VS mixing into the new solution.

Using a paper paint strainer to also remove debris.

 

[marlinspike]

I have a feeling I've seen Edd China use this on his YouTube channel. Looks pretty good. I've used the Bilt Hamber stuff Deox C, and just powdered citric acid. I'd be interested in how it does on heavy rusted stuff.

 

[500e]

Just keep using it flter now and then just keeps working

 

[JOEPRO]

I have a feeling I've seen Edd China use this on his YouTube channel. Looks pretty good. I've used the Bilt Hamber stuff Deox C, and just powdered citric acid. I'd be interested in how it does on heavy rusted stuff.

I have used electrolysis rust removal for heavily rusted car parts with success before.

I guess a final pass with this solution would really de rust the parts too.

I have never tried citric acid before. Do you buy that in powder or liquid form? I suppose the difference is that may eat the parts if left long enough whereas this Evaporust claims to be pH neutral. Whatever it is, I am surprised how quickly and thoroughly it cleaned that wrench.

 

[Ross365]

I've never used Evapo Rust but use citric regularly. It comes as a white powder, you can buy it in small amounts on the High St at Wilco's, but it's usually cheaper to buy larger amounts probably off ebay.

Citric will work out a lot cheaper, but may not be as good. An interesting approach might be to put badly rusted stuff in citric first and let that do the donkey work. In cases where citric does not do an adequate job, bring out the Evapo-Rust and see if that provides the final push. Interesting. I'll take a look at the Evapo-Rust SDS again and remind myself what that discloses in terms of constituents. Generally, I've never had a problem with the small extent to which citric will attack ferrous metal as distinct from dissolving rust. It's a very weak acid.

 

[JOEPRO]

Is there a particular type of Citric acid I should look for, is this OK?

 

[Gragson]

I was also about to ask re active ingredients.

When I was sealing a lot of fuel tanks with POR15, their "acid etch" and "metal ready" products were very expensive so I bought commercially available hydrochloric and neutralizing solution, much much cheaper.

 

[brightspark]

a guy at autojumble stall today was selling that stuff half that price

 

[not done it yet]

Is there a particular type of Citric acid I should look for, is this OK?

View attachment 405939

Citric acid is citric acid - nothing more and not much less! One most certainly does not require “food grade“ chemicals to remove rust! It will, of course work, practically, exactly the same as “technical” grade for rust removal.

 

[Ross365]

Is there a particular type of Citric acid I should look for, is this OK?

No particular type, the white powder will usually be something like 99% acid. If it is food grade (very pure) that will be more expensive. That stuff looks fine.

Hydrochloric is a completely different animal. I would NEVER use hydrochloric on anything I wanted to restore repeat NEVER and I am a chemist by trade!

I think some commercial rust removers may be citric with a corrosion inhibitor added, this makes sure the citric takes off rust but does not attack the metal at all, but I've never felt the need to use such a product, but can see why they could be useful.

 

[Gragson]

I would NEVER use hydrochloric on anything I wanted to restore

Point I was making was around getting active ingredients cheaper.
Hydrocholric is what POR use in their metal ready or marine clean can't remember which

 

[JOEPRO]

What is a good product for keeping rust off tools etc? I don't mean spraying down with wd40 etc that is not ideal when storing tools in pouches or tool boxes.

Is there wax type product that works well to avoid flash rusting for winter months etc?

 

[Ross365]

Chloride ions are brilliant at initiating corrosion; ask the Scots, who's cars rust like crazy because of all the salt they use in winter. Moreover, when you get chloride on metal surfaces, it is "quite hard" to wash it off. No amount of plain water will do it.

So, if it's still there when you apply whatever paint you use, return of the rust will be very much quicker than if you'd not used it.
If POR do use it, then I suspect they recommend the use of their highly expensive product to de-chloride it afterwards.
I worked in the nuclear industry; we were given special fibre markers with chloride-free solvent in them for use on our kit.

I think some people rate bee's wax on tools.

 

[brightspark]

here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23349385...pWVPwipp-DOr1XJwQLD-SHQtItT6MpqYaAgcDEALw_wcB

 

[Beanwood]

Well here's a coincidence. I found an old toolbox at the back of a shed that had leaked, causing some rather nasty rough and rusty spanners.
I also found a box of citric - so mixed some up in jam jar for a test, leaving half to compare against...
After 4 hours, here's the result:

 

[graffian]

Point I was making was around getting active ingredients cheaper.
Hydrocholric is what POR use in their metal ready or marine clean can't remember which

More likely to be phosphoric acid.
My experience of using hydrochloric acid you can neautralise the surface but it carries on rusting and everything nearby rusts.

Kreem sealant used to say in the instructions what the various potions were.
Marine clean, a concentrated alkaline cleaner.
Rust remover or metal etch, whatever they called it, phosphoric acid.
The drying stuff, again I can't remember what they called it, was acetone.

 

[Porkypine]

I de rusted the inside of a morris fuel tank with a phosphoric acid and water solution, it wasn't deep seated rust but looked clean inside after an overnight soak.
The citric powder I've only used to clean limescale out of water boiler type things, handy to know it does rust as well.

 

[brewdexta]

I've been doing a few bits of derusting while working on other workshop jobs. I found this tin of my dad's while tidying the barn and thought it could do with cleaning up and putting to use. It was well rusty, this is after cup brush and scotchbrite pad.

I had some Bilt Hamber Deox C Gel knocking about, it would have done the job but takes a while, and gets quite messy, I have better results on cast iron tables with this stuff. This is after about 4 hours of deox C Gel, giving it a bit of a move around every hour.

Then saw this thread so I thought I would use some Evaporust to see how it goes, I had half a tub left.

About 4 hours later, looks well.

The trouble is, the conical part doesn't displace as much when I turn it upside down so will put a couple of bricks in the bucket to raise the level a bit, or find a slimmer container

I use both citric acid solution and electrolysis on occasion too. They all work. Citric works best warm so putting an aquarium heater in the tank is something I occasionally do.