Evaporust - first time user / review

[Gragson]

More likely to be phosphoric acid.

Yes - I know what I meant

 

[Ross365]

And the difficult to answer questions about the pros and cons of phosphoric have been discussed previously on here at great length.

When citric is washed off with water, it leaves nothing behind but the metal. But after phosphoric is used, it leaves a tough film of metal phosphate compounds on the metal. Now, the paint you have, was that intended to go on to a phosphate layer or was intended to go on bare metal? Might that be the difference between a great out come and a not-so-great outcome .

I've used phosphoric in the distant past, but not recently.

 

[Sergei Slovenija]

I've been doing a few bits of derusting while working on other workshop jobs. I found this tin of my dad's while tidying the barn and thought it could do with cleaning up and putting to use. It was well rusty, this is after cup brush and scotchbrite pad.

View attachment 405995

I had some Bilt Hamber Deox C Gel knocking about, it would have done the job but takes a while, and gets quite messy, I have better results on cast iron tables with this stuff. This is after about 4 hours of deox C Gel, giving it a bit of a move around every hour.

View attachment 405996

Then saw this thread so I thought I would use some Evaporust to see how it goes, I had half a tub left.

View attachment 405997

About 4 hours later, looks well.

View attachment 405998

The trouble is, the conical part doesn't displace as much when I turn it upside down so will put a couple of bricks in the bucket to raise the level a bit, or find a slimmer container

I use both citric acid solution and electrolysis on occasion too. They all work. Citric works best warm so putting an aquarium heater in the tank is something I occasionally do.

The jar wants to be covered with a thin layer of tin, through fire.

 

[tigdlo]

Hydrochloric is a completely different animal. I would NEVER use hydrochloric on anything I wanted to restore repeat NEVER and I am a chemist by trade!

Would you please expand on this? I thought this is what is used before zinc plating.

 

[steveo3002]

looks impressive , shame its not so easy to dunk a wing or door with a scab in the middle

unless we club together and fill a paddling pool with it

 

[brewdexta]

looks impressive , shame its not so easy to dunk a wing or door with a scab in the middle

unless we club together and fill a paddling pool with it

That's where the Deox C gel comes in, you can plonk it on the scab and give it the occasional agitation. I use it on rusty cast iron table saws. You can probably make your own with citric acid, wallpaper paste and a dash of non-salty detergent.

 

[Danez]

I started using evaporust a few weeks ago, can confirm its good stuff

it did well when i left it in the cylinder block on the 205 for a few days

 

[brightspark]

cillit bang is good stuff as well

 

[slim_boy_fat]

will put a couple of bricks in the bucket to raise the level a bit

Remember to wrap them in cling film first, or they'll soak up the E/rust like sponges.

 

[brewdexta]

I ended up putting some chain in a plastic bag

 

[fractured]

And the difficult to answer questions about the pros and cons of phosphoric have been discussed previously on here at great length.

When citric is washed off with water, it leaves nothing behind but the metal. But after phosphoric is used, it leaves a tough film of metal phosphate compounds on the metal. Now, the paint you have, was that intended to go on to a phosphate layer or was intended to go on bare metal? Might that be the difference between a great out come and a not-so-great outcome .

I've used phosphoric in the distant past, but not recently.

Ooh, interesting. I have been using a painted on solution of phosphoric acid (about 35%) on my parts that I have used electrolysis on. I then use a zinc oxide primer on top (Bonda Rust Primer) finished with a top coat - do you think citric acid would be better in this application?

 

[Agroshield]

looks impressive , shame its not so easy to dunk a wing or door with a scab in the middle

Sponge dipped in ER. Clingfilm over it to stop it drying out.

Build a dam around the scab with plasticine or decorator's caulk. Fill with ER.

 

[Ross365]

Would you please expand on this? I thought this is what is used before zinc plating.

Yes that's true. However, a layer of paint is a polymer which is permeable to a small extent to both water and oxygen, so as we know from the Forth bridge, paints don't last forever, and will fail even sooner if chloride is around. Zinc is not permeable, so I guess the extent to which chloride is present is less critical.

The issue of how tenacious chloride is on metal is very well documented. People trying to conserve items recovered from the sea have to deal with it. Canada uses even more salt on their roads than Scotland and their Government has spent a lot of money researching this and there are lots of their technical papers on the web describing the problem. Finding cost-effective ways of getting chloride off metal surfaces is quite a problem and is best done using chemicals which react with it (possibly amines ?) and you will find those products for sale if you search for them.

 

[jonclancy]

I have had excellent results with Evaporust. You do need to read the instructions carefully, or you can kill the solution. Can’t remember the details, but it involves whether or not you cover it etc.

 

[JOEPRO]

I am pleased to have this adjustable wrench back working again. It was a good one until I left it laying out a whole winter in grass and only noticed in spring Its been sitting for a couple of years jammed solid waiting on a plan to get it fixed, this stuff was ideal for it. Gentle but strong at rust removal.

It's went back in to get the outer end of it done now too then I'll clean and use the tool wax to protect it. I have lots of other adjustable wrenches and punches etc that will get the same treatment.

I dropped in a rusted Mercedes w140 bracket tonight



I also have collected Mercedes w124 and w220 tools from scrap cars for years. I have a bucket full of genuine tools that go in the boot but are rusty. I will likely use this solution to de rust them and give them a pass with soda blast before taking them to a local place for silver Zinc plating.

 

[Fastdruid]

I have had excellent results with Evaporust. You do need to read the instructions carefully, or you can kill the solution. Can’t remember the details, but it involves whether or not you cover it etc.

In the FAQ rather than the instructions.

If Evapo-Rust® has not been used, shelf life is extensive and it can remain bottled. As Evapo-Rust® is a biodegradable product it will compost if starved of oxygen once used. Once used, Evapo-Rust® is best stored in a plastic container with a lid that does not contain a seal. Utilizing a lid will limit evaporation and extend the life of your product. Partial quantities of Ready-To-Use Evapo-Rust® can be removed from the original bottle at any given time but MUST NOT be returned to the bottle once used. Doing so will degrade the unused product and eventually ruin it completely.

 

[Ross365]

Everyone who reports on Evapo-rust is very impressed by it. But depending on whether you buy 1 or 5 litres, the price varies from ~£8 to18 per litre. I wonder whether £8-18 worth of citric acid (i.e. a very good quantity) would be as good?

 

[Popcorn]

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01BDLOGW2/ref=pe_27063361_485629781_pd_te_o_rp_ti?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01BDLOGW2&pd_rd_r=F7NV2BQQKSB5WKW5VDSW&pd_rd_w=hAJvS&pd_rd_wg=GTzVa&pf_rd_p=e93f0038-fb45-4b56-9ac7-bcb227770a56

 

[Farside]

here https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23349385...pWVPwipp-DOr1XJwQLD-SHQtItT6MpqYaAgcDEALw_wcB

Jeebus! Is it the product of virgin thighs, or something?

 

[Dell]

Although Eveaporust is a good product and I have used it on 8 and 10mm collets and clock arbors, be warned that if left in to long the steel will turn black, 24 hours seems to be the limit for me anyway but I would imagine it would depend on the steel.