External Gate Hinge repair solutions?

[tom2207]

and can be a liability if you get a couple of bad tenants

one bad tenant is all most folk can stand ,,, Im selling property as it becomes vacant now , its past a joke being a landlord .

 

[brightspark]

one bad tenant is all most folk can stand ,,, Im selling property as it becomes vacant now , its past a joke being a landlord .

yep im working in a few sh..it holes at the mo for a guy who has about 50 rip kitchen and bathrooms out .all carpets up wipe all walls down clean with sugar soap and repaint replace all light fittings sockets and switches as there filthy. it takes any profit of what is made guy just did a flit and left all the crap and never paid the rent

 

[JOEPRO]

Another off topic derailment Mig forum style

 

[tom2207]

Another off topic derailment Mig forum style

well treat it as a cautionary tale ,,, and dont get me started on letting agents either.

 

[brightspark]

Another off topic derailment Mig forum style

was you that started it saying its a rental what has that got to do with repairing a gate we just followed on

 

[JOEPRO]

I think this could work well-





So I'll cut a 40mm length from the tube with correct ID for the existing pin.

Then I'll use some 50×5 flat bar I have. Use my plasma to recess the hex bolt head and weld it in. This plate gets bolted to the wall.

Then the nut is welded to the tube and that will also allow some adjustability. I'll add a grease fitting on the centre of the tube too.

I will leave the bolt longer than needed then bolt bracket on and offer gate up then make the final cut on site.

 

[Bsmith]

If you're removing and blasting, just chop off the rod and weld on a replacement the right size. If the bar the hinge strap is bolted to is serviceable bending a fresh bit will probably be quickest. But it looks like it might be pretty tired itself, and has cracked the wall/post.

If that'd be better replaced, you could weld a weld on gate eye to a wall plate and bolt in place.


But replace the hook with a eye.

Exactly that. The latch could be heated to get rid of rust and old paint, hole welded up and redrilled for new rivit.

 

[JOEPRO]

2nd that,and to YOUR own design
"oh i do love your gate,where'd you get it?"
"i made it actually"
ooooooooooooooooooo

I did make my own gates and railings in my early 20s.



I made a large plywood table and metal jigs on top screwed down. Drew it all in CAD then cut my bars etc and bought all the components. I welded it all then got them sent away for galvanising. Very heavy stuff, solid bar.

Pillars were short before so I extended them up and did the real stone detail on top. They are solid pillars and I also embedded a large steel bracket inside them bolted to the upright gate hinge post.

 

[Agroshield]

Then the nut is welded to the tube...

Maybe use a coupling nut as it has a longer threaded length than a standard nut. That would give enough material to fit (cope) the end of the nut to the tube.

Square-headed bolts to fix the plate to the wall would look good.

 

[Gareth J]

I think this could work well-

View attachment 435723

View attachment 435724

So I'll cut a 40mm length from the tube with correct ID for the existing pin.

Then I'll use some 50×5 flat bar I have. Use my plasma to recess the hex bolt head and weld it in. This plate gets bolted to the wall.

Then the nut is welded to the tube and that will also allow some adjustability. I'll add a grease fitting on the centre of the tube too.

I will leave the bolt longer than needed then bolt bracket on and offer gate up then make the final cut on site.

If you put your bolt the other way around and drill a hole through the plate, it'll give the excess thread of the bolt somewhere to go, with a little recess in the wall too.

Welding the nut on is also a doddle as you can clamp it in place with the bolt.

Would recommend using a bought gate eye though, with the eye chopped off as your thread/nuts, rather than the BZP bolt. It'll be dipped galve and much better plated.

 

[JOEPRO]

Got the bits cut in my bandsaw this evening at least.

Rough mock up:



I'll chamfer the corners of the plate for the look of it and drill / recess the bolt head in the next couple of evenings. It will be blasted and fosroc galv painted then kept painted black every year going forward.

 

[wyn]

I would just get the tube to go over the pin ( maybe weld it) to get it back to a size to fit the strap hinge.

 

[JOEPRO]

I would just get the tube to go over the pin ( maybe weld it) to get it back to a size to fit the strap hinge.

The hinge Strap is seriously corroded and now cut in half!

It's easy enough to drill and chemical anchor the wall and have a solid bracket on there.

 

[JOEPRO]

Any ideas on how best to remove several mm worth of old paint?



I'm thinking of needle descaler first for the real built up sections near corners etc then an angle grinder and wire wheel. Possibly some chemical stripper too

 

[BarrieJ]

You'll really struggle to get the needle scaler to work efficiently across many of the elements in the gate. The inner surfaces of the scroll work and those parts where you can't use the gun at, or around 90 degrees will frustrate you. It's slow work too and very noisy. I accept your budget is tight but getting the gate commercially blasted would be by far the best result and would give you a good surface to base your restoration on. Best of luck with it.

 

[Onoff]

I'd run a few Starrett holesaws down over that pin to reduce to a consistent size. Then slip a tube over it.

 

[Mick Annick]

That’s patina, leave it alone…

 

[JOEPRO]

That’s patina, leave it alone…

Maybe clear laquer it like Gas Monkey Garage?

 

[Agroshield]

Any ideas on how best to remove several mm worth of old paint?

Any places near you that do hot caustic soda baths for door stripping?

 

[JOEPRO]

Some progress tonight




Tomorrow night I will dress back the welds and drill the holes for the chemical anchor bolts