- Thread starter Richard.
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As you have discovered, Myford use a variety of threads on their lathes. On my ML7 I have found metric, UNF, UNC, BSW, BSF and BA. It's a nightmare for replacing missing or damaged fasteners and equally difficult getting the correct spanner.
But stick at it, you've come a long way in a few days and you seem to have a knack for it. I really need to get back to my lathe, finish the restoration and get making things. Other projects seem to have jumped the queue as often happens.
But stick at it, you've come a long way in a few days and you seem to have a knack for it. I really need to get back to my lathe, finish the restoration and get making things. Other projects seem to have jumped the queue as often happens.
Richard.
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Thank you mate that's very kind.Richard, as you're getting so excited about screwcutting, if you message me your address, I'll send you this book.....I've had it 20 years, but think I've havn't looked at it since the week I got it. its much easier to use taps and dies.
I'll ping it across this afternoon when I get chance to sit down.
Much appreciated Optima.
You're getting a really good finish on those threads Richard, so you must be doing something right. The next bit of fun is to have a go at a 3/8" bsp thread, 19tpi - I actually can't do that on my imperial Boxford lathe easily as it doesn't appear on the thread charts. That's when playing with the formula using your available gears to get the closest match comes in handy (or using one of the screwcutting programmes talked about earlier in this thread).
Glad you're pleased with your choice of machine - there are loads of extras that have been designed for it that you can make yourself, as well as plenty of spares available (yes some of them are expensive, but at least you can get them).
Glad you're pleased with your choice of machine - there are loads of extras that have been designed for it that you can make yourself, as well as plenty of spares available (yes some of them are expensive, but at least you can get them).
Richard.
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Thanks mate appreciate the kind words
I'm a little depressed I can't touch the bloody thing this week as I'm working away but that sounds like an interesting challenge.
I'm going to make an internal and external thread perfect match up as my next challenge. And to make it harder I've making both tools myself from some hss tool bar. As I'm very keen on learning how to properly make my own tools.
With my next challenge though the thread isn't just it. I'm going to machine both bits exactly to size. I'm going to put a exact size recess on it and chamfers etc. I'm going to produce a drawing first then clallenge myself to see how close I can get it without messing it up. We shall see but yes I've come on with it. I really enjoy it so learning is more fun.
I'm a little depressed I can't touch the bloody thing this week as I'm working away but that sounds like an interesting challenge.
I'm going to make an internal and external thread perfect match up as my next challenge. And to make it harder I've making both tools myself from some hss tool bar. As I'm very keen on learning how to properly make my own tools.
With my next challenge though the thread isn't just it. I'm going to machine both bits exactly to size. I'm going to put a exact size recess on it and chamfers etc. I'm going to produce a drawing first then clallenge myself to see how close I can get it without messing it up. We shall see but yes I've come on with it. I really enjoy it so learning is more fun.
dobbslc
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That makes me feel sick!
I've had my lathe 3 years and still can't reliably turn a bit of steel bar that looks any good! ( I'm blaming the lathe this time) I'm looking at a ML7 soon so maybe my troubles will end......
Richard.
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If I could help I would but I really don't know what I have done that's different. I just chuck em in the chuck and spin em up. After watching some videos, reading my book and speaking with you guys.
How is your lathe effecting your finish.
How is your lathe effecting your finish.
dobbslc
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I can't reliably get that shiny smooth finish on things most of the time, I've had it apart and replaced a few worn bushings etc and played with the gib and adjusted it every which way but there's still something not right, I just don't have the knowledge to diagnose the problem.
Pete.
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If you have a smaller machine, use higher top rake tools. Grind a hss tool at 30 degree top rake and use it on aluminium or plastic, and there will be very little load on the motor. Keeping a razor sharp edge might require a few touch-ups but the benefit will be apparent right away.
Richard.
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Mate hijack away please.I have been re adjusting for every job checking tool height etc but still being a PITA!
I don't want to hijack Richard's post so I'll go into the garage with a large ballpeen hammer for a while......
I find the trouble shooting and problem solving is only beneficial to me as a novice so fill your boots I'm reading with interest.
Kram
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dobbslc get some carbide inserts that are designed for aluminium with high rake. They have a very sharp edge and give me a mirror finnish on pretty much anything (copper and brass is great). I've also abused one on stainless and so far its ok.
This is just an example www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281503939542 I would be getting a bigger size. The ones I use are Walter branded CCMT0903, but I prefer the 1204 size. Kennametal are easy to search for - any KC5410 with positive rake will do well. No idea what other brands are similar grade/polished edges.
This is just an example www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281503939542 I would be getting a bigger size. The ones I use are Walter branded CCMT0903, but I prefer the 1204 size. Kennametal are easy to search for - any KC5410 with positive rake will do well. No idea what other brands are similar grade/polished edges.
dobbslc
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Thanks for the highjack pass Richard!
Kram I've already got carbide insert tools plus hss and tct, some days it's ok with one type some days another!
The alloy I've not had to much trouble with I can get a good finish on that, it's the mild steel that's the trouble and I have bought new stock from a couple of different places so I don't think it's the stock itself.
I know it's not me being a plonker so it's either machine set-up or a machine problem, I haven't worked out what yet.
Kram I've already got carbide insert tools plus hss and tct, some days it's ok with one type some days another!
The alloy I've not had to much trouble with I can get a good finish on that, it's the mild steel that's the trouble and I have bought new stock from a couple of different places so I don't think it's the stock itself.
I know it's not me being a plonker so it's either machine set-up or a machine problem, I haven't worked out what yet.
Pete.
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Best to check your headstock bearing adjustment. It sounds like the extra load of cutting steel is causing the bearings to chatter. Put a mag base on the headstock with an indicator on the chuck. Stick a bar in the chuck and pull it about. You'll get some movement on a mini lathe but if the needle flicks any amount you might want to adjust the bearings.
Richard.
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Getting a tooled finish is the one thing I didn't struggle with right from the off. That to me suggests the machine needs attention cod if I can do it in a day or two any one can
Ive been playing a lot with the gearing to get my feed speed as perfect as I can.
Alu is the best material for learning the art of finishing IMO. This is what I have mine down at now.
Ive been playing a lot with the gearing to get my feed speed as perfect as I can.
Alu is the best material for learning the art of finishing IMO. This is what I have mine down at now.
the snooper
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well I see this is another thread that stayed on topic 
dobbslc
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Pete I've put a dti on the chuck mounted on a mag base stuck to the bed and got absolutely no movement, I didn't put a bar in the chuck though so will give it a try.
I'm thinking it could be the tool post is flexing as its a tall one, the centre height is about 240mm.
I'm thinking it could be the tool post is flexing as its a tall one, the centre height is about 240mm.
