Fitting Defender doors h Help!

[OJCar]

Thanks John, am back to work tomorrow, so will get a risk then

Isn't it risky resting at work...


Glad you got here with the door, takes a while to get them right.

 

[Rannsachair]

Isn't it risky resting at work...


Glad you got here with the door, takes a while to get them right.

I am a desk jockey.

I hope I am quicker on the next one.

 

[Rannsachair]

Did the drivers door today, night and day easier, almost a good fit without bending.

New window channels, door seals and central locking actuators:

 

[addjunkie]

Good to see Triggers broom living on, far more environmentally friendly than scrapping so called green electric cars at 7 and 8 years due to cost of bits

 

[Migmac]

Looks good Tom

 

[Rannsachair]

Looks good Tom

Thanks, was quite a bit time, running drills and taps through holes, filing out square holes for fittings and hole for door handle because on the galvanizing.

Still to drill the door bottoms for the bottom seals, am fitting the later puma type seals, supposed to be better.

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

The Puma seals are shaped to fit around the curved pressing of the Puma door bottom, not sure how they will fit with the old type door.

 

[Rannsachair]

The Puma seals are shaped to fit around the curved pressing of the Puma door bottom, not sure how they will fit with the old type door.

I found this article on someone fitting them as upgrade and thought now was the time to try it:
http://defender90xs.blogspot.com/2014/08/upgraded-door-bottom-seals.html

 

[lotus_esprit_s1]

I found this article on someone fitting them as upgrade and thought now was the time to try it:
http://defender90xs.blogspot.com/2014/08/upgraded-door-bottom-seals.html

They are fitting them to Puma doors to replace the earlier seals which were originally carried over from the old type doors before they redesigned the lower seal, I don’t think you will be able to fit them to the old type doors.

I have retro fitted them to both my Pumas, they are improved but they do cause the door not to shut quite flush with the tub at the bottom edge

 

[Rannsachair]

They are fitting them to Puma doors to replace the earlier seals which were originally carried over from the old type doors before they redesigned the lower seal, I don’t think you will be able to fit them to the old type doors.

I have retro fitted them to both my Pumas, they are improved but they do cause the door not to shut quite flush with the tub at the bottom edge

I had a google, a few folk have fitted them to TD5's, so may not be as neat a fit, though still an improvement.

 

[Rannsachair]

Meant to include a pic of the driver's door, similar to passenger

Plus top frame cracked and welded twice was cracked through again.

 

[tom2207]

when I repair that bit that always breaks i use one piece of flat and go from one channel to the other ,,, fold a right angle lip on the bottom and drill the original door then spot the two layers together ,, as well as repairing the original bit too ,, use 1.2mm and it seems to do well , not had one come back yet ,,, dont get carried away round door lock knob or its a pain to get it to fit . ,, may help someone

 

[julianf]

when I repair that bit that always breaks i use one piece of flat and go from one channel to the other ,,, fold a right angle lip on the bottom and drill the original door then spot the two layers together ,, as well as repairing the original bit too ,, use 1.2mm and it seems to do well , not had one come back yet ,,, dont get carried away round door lock knob or its a pain to get it to fit . ,, may help someone

Have you got a photo of one?

It's a fix that I need to do at some point and I follow photos way better than words.

 

[tom2207]

Have you got a photo of one?

It's a fix that I need to do at some point and I follow photos way better than words.

hi , no i dont have ,,, i never take my phone to work as it fills up with dust ,,, Ill take some pics next time ,,, but the flat against the back of the profile and spot welded top and bottom turns the whole x piece into a ribbed box section , and the bottom lip helps too , the whole door firms up so much its a big change , hope my description made sense.

 

[pedrobedro]

I helped fit some new doors to a Series 2A which had a new galvanised chassis and we had to elongate the hinge holes in the pillars to get them anywhere near.

 

[Bobupndown]

Assume they're brand new doors you've fitted?
The originals weren't too bad in reality, I'd have considered repairing, or having them repaired? Suppose new is easier, make sure you get suitable preservative of your choice lashed inside them.

 

[Rannsachair]

Assume they're brand new doors you've fitted?
The originals weren't too bad in reality, I'd have considered repairing, or having them repaired? Suppose new is easier, make sure you get suitable preservative of your choice lashed inside them.

New doors are all steel and galvanized, I have waxed the inside of them with Noxudol 700.

 

[Rannsachair]

Finally got all the central locking and electric windows done then the door cards were a nightmare, I bought new ones from SP4X4, they were all plastic, unlike the composite originals, every time I fitted the retainers , they popped out again. Eventually I gave up and repaired the original door cards drilling the broken fittings in the card and fitting small self tapers to retain the fittings! I think the new plastic door cards were a waste of money.

Landy looking more like it used to: