Flint Panel Edging

[Gritineye]

Hydrated lime will be fine for that job, use a stiff mix using sharp grit sand around 2:1. For a yellower look add some builders sand.

Depending on exposure, lime will weather off over time and leave the grit showing if you avoid trowelling the joints smooth, use the edge of your trowel and just rake them.

Put a board across the front and place flints against it to keep them from drooping, fill all at the back and around each flint.

Do both all panels at the same time, alternating between them.

By the end of the day, they will have gone off enough to remove the board and strike off the excess mortar.

Lightly brush any nibs off the next day, but not too hard.

Move boards up and repeat, by the time you reach the top course you will have got the hang of it and be able to place them in freehand.

Most important thing it not to rush, nothing worse than watching it all flop onto the ground cos it's too wet to support the next course.

It wouldn't hurt to use a couple of stainless screw in ties in each panel.

Size the flints in proportion to the panels, you only need small ones for that, place them touching, as the joints get wider towards the front.

One I did earlier..

 

[Onoff]

Hydrated lime will be fine for that job, use a stiff mix using sharp grit sand around 2:1.

Cheers. You mean 2 of sharp sand to 1 of hydrated lime? No OPC then?

 

[Gritineye]

Yep, no OPC needed at all and it will ruin the colour.

 

[Onoff]

Yep, no OPC needed at all and it will ruin the colour.

Sorry to come back on this but it says here it won't set:

Myth #1: Hydrated Lime Mortar | Conserv®

Lime mortar is commonly confused with the use of hydrated lime in modern cement mortars. Lime mortars are 100% natural and traditional, they don't contain any cement or hydrated lime.

www.lime-mortars.co.uk

 

[Gritineye]

Sorry to come back on this but it says here it won't set:

Myth #1: Hydrated Lime Mortar | Conserv®

Lime mortar is commonly confused with the use of hydrated lime in modern cement mortars. Lime mortars are 100% natural and traditional, they don't contain any cement or hydrated lime.

www.lime-mortars.co.uk

I built that house for a typical farmer, I told him it would require proper lime putty type mortar, and lots of it.

He wouldn't pay the asking price for that, went off and made a few phone calls to some experts and suppliers, came back insisting hydrated would be fine.

As the whole job was on labour only daywork there was no risk to me if it didn't work.

I was surprised that it set up fairly quickly, much quicker than I thought it would.

The house was built in 2001 and still looks fine, and he field picked the flints for free.

 

[Onoff]

Two pier caps done as seen in "what I've made today". Wait for them to cure and fit them. I'll have to rope a mate in to help lift them into position mind.

Before then I do have to access inside the pillar tops and clean out any debris. Then do the final tightening of the M16 safety bolt (back up in case the weld on the L shape box section give up). I'll need some fancy plastic caps to go over the nut come to think of it. Think I can rustle up some white ones and spray them. I want a Gothic esque, thick washer there too...something to mull over...



I also have to decide how and where to run conduit for my aerial coax and indeed where to mount the aerial for the gate controller. Probably atop the horizontal section of box with a CB style mount.



I did half consider a fancy moulding at the apex of the pillar cap to put the aerial right at the top.....but decided not to.

I've also to fill these (deliberate) gaps around where the box comes out of the pillar with foam strip then figure some cover plates or the birds will peck it all out.



The box section needs painting black at some time too.

Flint infills can happen soon hopefully, I need to knock up a little stainless enclosure to mount/protect the video intercom one side and put some studs in to mount the coach lanterns too.

Another couple of years then!

 

[Onoff]

I need to turn this picture into a DXF.

Basically the door hinges from our church. No idea if they're original or repro ones. Plan is to have big ones laser or water jet cut to go on our sliding gate as faux hinges. No holes req'd just plain. I'll drill later to match the coach bolts in the gate.

Inkscape for the DXF conversion maybe?

 

[Aff]

I needed to procrastinate so sketched it up.

Hope you don't mind.

 

[Onoff]

I needed to procrastinate so sketched it up.

Hope you don't mind.

View attachment 295575

You're a true gent! Is that good enough to use for laser/water jetting?

 

[Aff]

Ye, you'll want to scale it to whatever size you need and scale the holes to your bolts (or just remove them/change them to pilots). I think it's about 350mm long in that DXF.


:edit: or if you know the size you want it I could quickly scale it.

 

[Onoff]

Ye, you'll want to scale it to whatever size you need and scale the holes to your bolts (or just remove them/change them to pilots). I think it's about 350mm long in that DXF.


:edit: or if you know the size you want it I could quickly scale it.

Now I have the DXF I can mess around in AutoCAD thanks.

I've not yet opened it up but is that a raster to vector conversion as in it retains all the "imperfections" of the original? Great if so, no problem mind if you've drawn from scratch. (Did you use Inkscape?).

Feelers out at the mo for someone to cut these for me. I don't want them so thin as to look like tin foil stuck to the gate! Thinking maybe 6mm minimum in 304.

 

[Onoff]

Hmmm...this one hasn't come out as well as the first so far. The corner where the 15mm copper was set too deep needs repair for a start:

 

[Onoff]

I needed to procrastinate so sketched it up.

Hope you don't mind.

View attachment 295575

Opened this earlier but it wasn't a continuous polyline. Using PEDIT and JOIN in AutoCAD and I couldn't make it one either.

Question then, for a laser or water jet does it need to be a continuous, unbroken polyline? I've always thought so and always given any DXF to fabricators as such whether it be plasma/laser or water jet I've had done.

Back in the dim and distant, circa AutoCAD 2000 and 2000i I'm sure I once knew a command whereby it would "track" round a polyline and find gaps.

Anyone? Cheers.

 

[Onoff]

Top of the uncapped pillar (round hole for the orange flashing strobe):





This is the aerial and length of RG-59/U coax:



I'm thinking to drill a hole atop the box section horizontal arm and fit a removable mounting plate:



Conduit will come along inside the box section for the coax. Will look something like this:



Nice big ground plane!

 

[Fraserb]

Opened this earlier but it wasn't a continuous polyline. Using PEDIT and JOIN in AutoCAD and I couldn't make it one either.

Question then, for a laser or water jet does it need to be a continuous, unbroken polyline? I've always thought so and always given any DXF to fabricators as such whether it be plasma/laser or water jet I've had done.

Back in the dim and distant, circa AutoCAD 2000 and 2000i I'm sure I once knew a command whereby it would "track" round a polyline and find gaps.

Anyone? Cheers.

I'm far from an expert but on the programmes I use if it's a closed shape it recognises it as such so knows to cut on tbe outside to get the correct finished size, if it's an open shape it will follow the line exactly so in the case of my plasma would take 0.75 of a mm off the sizes

 

[Onoff]

One hole drilled.

A quick holding coat:

Can't for the life of me find my one Starrett arbour that has the impact driver fitting to go in my DeWalt right angled drill adapter!

 

[Onoff]

I'm far from an expert but on the programmes I use if it's a closed shape it recognises it as such so knows to cut on tbe outside to get the correct finished size, if it's an open shape it will follow the line exactly so in the case of my plasma would take 0.75 of a mm off the sizes

There are a couple of gaps I've noted on the DXF. Easily closed.

Do you cut stainless there?

 

[Fraserb]

There are a couple of gaps I've noted on the DXF. Easily closed.

Do you cut stainless there?

I'm just a hobbyist with a cnc plasma, I've cut stainless before though.

 

[Onoff]

I'm just a hobbyist with a cnc plasma, I've cut stainless before though.

Right, so guessing you don't hold it it stock though?

 

[Fraserb]

Right, so guessing you don't hold it it stock though?

No, stainless I just buy in when needed, too expensive for me to have lying about.