I wasn't totally sure to be frank, but put it back anyway. They are on both ends of the sills. My conclusion is that it is some sort of lifting point for the factory jack. Even substantially repaired, I am not sure I would want to use it though!
Think I would have left that jack thingy off...seems a perfect place for mud to gather. But it's easy to say looking at pictures...as we all know the person driving gets to make the choice themselves!
Nice welding on a very difficult area...I hate repairing inner arches!
Nearside completed now. Picture taken before refitting the gate latch. That didn't go too well, mainly due to the new welder (not being used to it). Had the power too far down, then gas was intermittent for some reason,. Still, a passing pigeon helped and a grinder and a smear of filler disguised the evidence.
I got the repair sections but wasn't impressed with the quality so decided to make my own repair patches. I did the other side's inner wing repair first...
I had to refix the shield bracket to the repair piece I had made before fitting...
Then welded it in. Filling the blow holes once again was the longest part of the job...
nice job on the patching and welding....I like to cut a bit more out to be sure I get to nicer metal....less blow through...but I understand not wanting to cut too much out.....
Next issue is the radiator. In a nutshell, the original is not available from anywhere so I have put in a smaller one for now. Problem with that is no fan switch is fitted to it, so I have had to link it out just to use the car. It is a two stage switch so needs sorting. Plan A is to build an Arduino temperature switch, operated off the temperature gauge sender. I have already started building that.
Plan B is where you guys come in... I could fit the switch into a top hose adapter like this:
32mm hose tails but the sender thread needs to be 22x1.5mm which is not an off the shelf option. Anyone care to make me one please?
Core is no longer available and nor is the tooling. Only option left there is a custom build at around £500. Just the same as the exhaust system in fact.
I think the problem is that it is too old for mainstream suppliers, but too new for classic suppliers to be interested. Plus the low numbers built makes life "interesting".
I still have issues around the fault codes:
It gets more and more interesting and nobody seems to be ale to explain why I am getting code 76! The car is a bug eye 12V 2.9i Scorpio with Aircon and automatic box. The ECU fitted is a 90GB-12A650-HB.
Code 76 refers to the air flow meter which this car doesn't have. The specialist in Cheltenham says that aftermarket FCRs are no good and the only option is for them to do a code read at £55.00 thankyou very much! I am tempted only if to prove that it is nonsense as it is clearly being generated by the ECU.
Symptoms are that the idle is fast at 1100RPM and poor. Performance is a bit sluggish and it uses a lot of fuel.
Removing the TPS plug drops the idle to 800 ish. Replacing the TPS has changed nothing. Plug has been cleaned and wiring checked.
Removing the ISCV plug causes it to stall immediately. I have replaced the valve and cleaned both to no avail.
The mechanical stop on the throttle body appears unaltered and is not holding the throttle open.
Butterfly area has been cleaned out with brake cleaner.
O2 sensor for cylinders 4-6 has been replaced.
Code read KOEO gives 76
Code read KEOR gives 12 followed by 92. (ISCV and O2 sensor left bank reporting rich)
Ford specialist in Cheltenham was unable to connect to the car, quelle surprise. ;-)