daedalusminos
Member
- Messages
- 2,215
- Location
- Norwich
You probably don't need the detail on the back except for the charger contact positions (unless it's wireless - even easier)You make it sound so easy.
You probably don't need the detail on the back except for the charger contact positions (unless it's wireless - even easier)You make it sound so easy.
Agreed 110%the amount of time I've wasted trying to work out how the flippin' 'eck some f**kwit has manged to create something in some excessively complicated, over-the-top, time consuming way! I swear one of our recently retired contractors, when sat working from home during Covid was working out ways to make things as incomprehensible and slow to work with as possible for the next poor sod to work with it! Features constrained to planes, positioned with dimensions, when a simple dimensioned sketch worked better.
Last week, I could not work out how another colleague who started, and left, during Covid (so I never met him) had modelled something - just incomprehensible and I've been using NX for well over a decade! Another respected colleague couldn't figure it out either. But then again, the ex-colleague has masters and CEng . . (not yet met one who could actually do anything sensible practical, including a life-long mate of mine!), so what do I know ?
We won't mention flipping dimensions like 22.9mm, when for what he was doing 23, or 22, or even better 20 or 25, would have worked fine (I personally like to stick to sensible whole numbers if I know it will be made by a person with a rule, centre-punch and a hand drill - just quicker/easier to mark off). I often find the "real" dimension in the model is 22.8789876543210001112999 because the clown used the synchronous function to drag stuff around approximately, rather than nailing down with a proper, sensible dimension, rounding off in the drafting side of things to get semi-sensible numbers.
And use the "hole" function if has one - then the poor sod editing it later can quickly and easily edit, rather then mucking around with the extruded circles, especially buried in some other extruded sketch - and in most CAD systems, the hole command allows assembly patterns to be used to throw fasteners in quick and easily, patterns that then respond to changes in dimensions.
I still don't really get this 3D printing thing - spend hours modelling, hours printing, using a good few quid of material and power . . . for a two quid part that will be better, last longer and fit . . . but then I have full multi-million quid machine shop at my disposal (sort of ), and people who know how to operate it
Much like welding, where you need to get some hood time, in this case, "Seat time"You make it sound so easy.
Does that work??Agreed 110%
I swear some people build solid models not by using a keyboard and mouse, rather they short 2 wires together repeatably until
something appears on the screen......
Apparently......Does that work??
You need to select the 'modelled' check boxThreads...
I have designed a simple replacement desk foot. 40mm high, chamfered top edge and a 30mm M8 thread. It all looks OK in the Fusion design but when it is converted to .stl, the thread vanishes!
What am I doing wrong please!
Ah, I wondered what that was for! Most grateful to you.You need to select the 'modelled' check box
If you're chamfering the end of the thread, check to see how Fusion has done it....it may not be what you're afterAh, I wondered what that was for! Most grateful to you.
If you're chamfering the end of the thread, check to see how Fusion has done it....it may not be what you're after
Try editing the hole on the timeline