- Thread starter pleej
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Bobtail4x4
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And you are SURE this wont need a SVA?
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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SVA is gone, it's about 3 times dearer and called IVA now. If the floor pan is altered it should really be tested and probably re-registered but if it looks standard enough and passes MOT it may get away with it. What have you replaced the double skin round the gearbox tunnel with?. Insuring it may be another matter completely.
update time and the first of many problems
the problem ive ran into is, as the cradle sits now were it needs to be so the wheels are in the center of the wheel arch the engine will sit in side the car by about 3inch mmmmm
so do i cut away and have the engine more inside the car witch will make the balance of the car amasing BUT i would need to make my own tunel , move the seat back and have to use a floor mounted pedal box OR do i make my own engine mounts up that moves the engine 3inch forward thus fitting in the bay and not needing alot of work ???????
the problem ive ran into is, as the cradle sits now were it needs to be so the wheels are in the center of the wheel arch the engine will sit in side the car by about 3inch mmmmm
so do i cut away and have the engine more inside the car witch will make the balance of the car amasing BUT i would need to make my own tunel , move the seat back and have to use a floor mounted pedal box OR do i make my own engine mounts up that moves the engine 3inch forward thus fitting in the bay and not needing alot of work ???????
the subframe has to be there to line the wheels up in the arch, there is nothing wrong with the subframe im using .
way i see it is i can eather use the subframe engine mounts to mount to the engine but i have to make engine mounts to move the engine 3inch forward or mount the engine to the frame i made out of box section so its not even attached to the subframe at all .
way i see it is i can eather use the subframe engine mounts to mount to the engine but i have to make engine mounts to move the engine 3inch forward or mount the engine to the frame i made out of box section so its not even attached to the subframe at all .
pedrobedro
Man at Matalan
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- CX near Chesterfield
The thing that determined my engine and gearbox position was where the gear lever ended up. Make a propshaft to fit with the rear wheels in position so they looked right in the rear arches.
this part was realy important, the geometry of the front end had to be like oem , just took time setting every thing up ,there was alot of angles that i had to think about , if i moved the shocker by a couple of cm the wheel was out of line .im buying all the adjustable arms but i still wanted it to be spot on .
the shocker tops will be double plated to add strength
the offset of the oem wheels is mint meaning i can stick some 8" or 9" on the front
the shocker tops will be double plated to add strength
the offset of the oem wheels is mint meaning i can stick some 8" or 9" on the front
stuvy
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i highly recommend them, whilst your at this stage id stick them on now, two plates with lots of holes for infinate adjustment, changing the geometry like your potentially doing can be a nightmare to set up the suspension properly.
Will it be yourself or a specialst tuning company?
Will it be yourself or a specialst tuning company?
stuvy
Member
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- 9,304
make em! you can still get them for all the ford range of cars, its basically 2 plates with lots of holes for the adjustment, then you can rotate the top movable one so the lower plate is fixed to the body and the top one has bolts to fix it to your desired location
remember if you make your own to factor in the eccentric top sections
remember if you make your own to factor in the eccentric top sections
