Got me a lathe!

[DanClarke]

I am doing a little "Happy Dance" because the lathe rev-counter is now working 100%.
The item bought from Amazon came in a box with "Zero/Zilch/Denada" info as to "how" it should be installed.
I've been struggling all day with ferrite noise suppressors etc. etc. all to no avail.
Then I did a google search online and up popped an e-bay link to a similar product to mine (AC powered RPM meter) but it offered 2 variants. Unshielded sensor, or "Shielded Sensor". Now I just added a shield to my sensor yesterday and it made NO difference at all to the outcome.

But, when reading this e-bay seller ad it became clear that for usage where there is possibly RFI/EMI from a VFD you should buy their shielded version and attach the sensor shield NOT TO EARTH but to the -ve terminal of the sensor connection to the tacho.

Boom! Problem is solved, the RPM readings are as steady as a rock and I am a very happy man.
So the cheap £69 VFD isn't so bad after all.

 

[My Old Landy]

I am doing a little "Happy Dance" because the lathe rev-counter is now working 100%.
The item bought from Amazon came in a box with "Zero/Zilch/Denada" info as to "how" it should be installed.
I've been struggling all day with ferrite noise suppressors etc. etc. all to no avail.
Then I did a google search online and up popped an e-bay link to a similar product to mine (AC powered RPM meter) but it offered 2 variants. Unshielded sensor, or "Shielded Sensor". Now I just added a shield to my sensor yesterday and it made NO difference at all to the outcome.

But, when reading this e-bay seller ad it became clear that for usage where there is possibly RFI/EMI from a VFD you should buy their shielded version and attach the sensor shield NOT TO EARTH but to the -ve terminal of the sensor connection to the tacho.

Boom! Problem is solved, the RPM readings are as steady as a rock and I am a very happy man.
So the cheap £69 VFD isn't so bad after all.

Glad you solved it

 

[Pete.]

I am doing a little "Happy Dance" because the lathe rev-counter is now working 100%.
The item bought from Amazon came in a box with "Zero/Zilch/Denada" info as to "how" it should be installed.
I've been struggling all day with ferrite noise suppressors etc. etc. all to no avail.
Then I did a google search online and up popped an e-bay link to a similar product to mine (AC powered RPM meter) but it offered 2 variants. Unshielded sensor, or "Shielded Sensor". Now I just added a shield to my sensor yesterday and it made NO difference at all to the outcome.

But, when reading this e-bay seller ad it became clear that for usage where there is possibly RFI/EMI from a VFD you should buy their shielded version and attach the sensor shield NOT TO EARTH but to the -ve terminal of the sensor connection to the tacho.

Boom! Problem is solved, the RPM readings are as steady as a rock and I am a very happy man.
So the cheap £69 VFD isn't so bad after all.

Great bit of detective work there.

 

[minimutly]

After a while you won't use the rev counter anyway - you'll develope a "feel".
Of all the things on my list of needs a rev counter is nowhere to be seen. DROs though..., but I have a lathe and three mills...

 

[DanClarke]

After a while you won't use the rev counter anyway - you'll develope a "feel".
Of all the things on my list of needs a rev counter is nowhere to be seen. DROs though..., but I have a lathe and three mills...

Yes, I am sure this is true. I was just anxious to please Tubal Cain et-al.
As well as thinking I could be lazy and play with a potentiometer instead of getting down on my creaking knees to change belt position.
I realise that dropping speed without changing the gearing can mean inadequate torque.

 

[My Old Landy]

Yes, I am sure this is true. I was just anxious to please Tubal Cain et-al.
As well as thinking I could be lazy and play with a potentiometer instead of getting down on my creaking knees to change belt position.
I realise that dropping speed without changing the gearing can mean inadequate torque.

It's what I do one the smart & brown. It has been in 2nd gear since owning it!

 

[DanClarke]

I have been "tinkering". First I decided the 3-jaw chuck was "tarnished and grubby", so I done cleaned her up with WD40 and scotchbrite pad.
You can see the difference when the 4-jaw independent is sat alongside it.
Then I did the 4-Jaw. That's when I found that the 4-Jaw is a bit broken. Previous owner along the line since new has tried to overtighten the jaws on 2 of the 4.
One has burst the chuck key socket's wall out and it is missing a section; another is cracked across two opposite corners.
It is a shame, I am not sure if they can be repaired. Maybe the cracked one can be welded to close the cracks?
The one that is missing a whole section (quadrant) of the socket is a whole different matter.
As it is so old (and doubtless imperial" spares may be hard/impossible to come by.

Anyone got any advice/guidance?

 

[Stupoty]

I have been "tinkering". First I decided the 3-jaw chuck was "tarnished and grubby", so I done cleaned her up with WD40 and scotchbrite pad.
You can see the difference when the 4-jaw independent is sat alongside it.
Then I did the 4-Jaw. That's when I found that the 4-Jaw is a bit broken. Previous owner along the line since new has tried to overtighten the jaws on 2 of the 4.
One has burst the chuck key socket's wall out and it is missing a section; another is cracked across two opposite corners.
It is a shame, I am not sure if they can be repaired. Maybe the cracked one can be welded to close the cracks?
The one that is missing a whole section (quadrant) of the socket is a whole different matter.
As it is so old (and doubtless imperial" spares may be hard/impossible to come by.

Anyone got any advice/guidance?

View attachment 439044 View attachment 439045

Is it just the screws that are broken ?

Stu

 

[DanClarke]

Is it just the screws that are broken ?

Stu

Yup!
I looked online and can't find any.

 

[Agroshield]

Anyone got any advice/guidance?

Good pictures of the broken parts would be useful.

Do you know how to remove the screws from the chuck?

What is the model number of the chuck?

Rotagrip have a Burnerd spares catalogue on their website as a huge pdf. If you can find the part number of the screw, that would help.

Measure the diameter and measure the thread pitch. A useful search term is '4 jaw chuck screw'.

 

[DanClarke]

It looks to me like the model number is 1540-91601, and the serial number is BP72/17281
Yes, I can strip it down easily enough and take the measurements (if I can clear a workspace Ha! Ha!).

 

[Agroshield]

Everything you need to know is in the Rotagrip document. It is 8Mb so not uploadable here.

Chuck was made between pre-1956 to 1994.

Screw part number is 2540-14365.

Similar parts are being sold by Rotagrip on eBay for £62 each, so that might influence your next move.

Appears to be unavailable, but call Rotagrip for confirmation:

https://www.rotagriponline.com/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage-ask.tpl&product_id=4851&category_id=39&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=29&redirected=1&Itemid=29

You could also try Nobilla Machine Tools.

 

[Seadog]

Sit down before looking at the prices

 

[DanClarke]

OK, found some online and bought two ....."OUCH"!

 

[RichardM]

Have a look at the thread, old Crown 4 jaws were 1/2" whit if I remember right, I replaced them with grub screws and machined the centre groove.

 

[DanClarke]

Have a look at the thread, old Crown 4 jaws were 1/2" whit if I remember right, I replaced them with grub screws and machined the centre groove.

Now you tell me! LOL
All bought and paid for now. Thank you DWP for this months gift.

 

[RichardM]

You're just too quick for me!

 

[DanClarke]

It can now be confirmed that I am a dopey barsteward. LOL
The lathe screws arrived from the seller (rotagrip's presence on e-bay) and though they are the same part number, they were for the 10" chuck so a tad "oversize".

I have sent them back. That'll teach me..... or not.
Maybe I should just buy a new Sanou or similar 4-jaw and have done with it. But I doubt the modern stuff from abroad is as good as the old stuff.

 

[Erie Fred]

It can now be confirmed that I am a dopey barsteward. LOL
The lathe screws arrived from the seller (rotagrip's presence on e-bay) and though they are the same part number, they were for the 10" chuck so a tad "oversize".

I have sent them back. That'll teach me..... or not.
Maybe I should just buy a new Sanou or similar 4-jaw and have done with it. But I doubt the modern stuff from abroad is as good as the old stuff.

All chucks (3 or 4 jaw) wear.
A new imported 4 jaw won't have wear in the slides, allowing the jaws to rock.
A used 3 jaw will have that wear, along with a scroll worn un-even.

 

[dave h 2]

Those screws get busted by numb nuts hitting the chuck key with a hammer to unscrew the chuck from the spindle closely followed by the teeth off the bull wheel