ronan
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- Thread starter The_Yellow_Ardvark
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graffian
Seer unto the end of his beard
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A mate used to do the manganese blacking when he was an apprentice, he used
to cook up a batch on the stove in their canteeen and black whatever parts the
toolmakers wanted blacked. After blacking the parts were dipped in dewatering fluid
and then duck oil to make them rustproof?
My local platers does blacking, the parts get dipped in duck oil after blacking.
I looked online and found loads of recipes. The chemicals for most recipes were not
hard to find.
I asked a place that sell metal finishing stuff, the salts they sell work at a lower temp than the
potasium chlorite recipes I found. I will dig out the prices and the product sheet.
to cook up a batch on the stove in their canteeen and black whatever parts the
toolmakers wanted blacked. After blacking the parts were dipped in dewatering fluid
and then duck oil to make them rustproof?
My local platers does blacking, the parts get dipped in duck oil after blacking.
I looked online and found loads of recipes. The chemicals for most recipes were not
hard to find.
I asked a place that sell metal finishing stuff, the salts they sell work at a lower temp than the
potasium chlorite recipes I found. I will dig out the prices and the product sheet.
I'm going to be following this with interest, had a look at the frosts kit and just don't know if it will be worth it or not, wanting to redo the barrels on my AYA 12bore. I had used the birchwood casey stuff before and it seemed ok but it's getting very light now.
Anybody looked at the Durablue? I think it's made by plastikote, seen a couple of videos on YouTube of guys doing firearms with it and it looked a good easy job, goes on like spray paint.
Anybody looked at the Durablue? I think it's made by plastikote, seen a couple of videos on YouTube of guys doing firearms with it and it looked a good easy job, goes on like spray paint.
ronan
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Would you not try the stuff from Brownells Rob ? I hear it works well, all you really need is way to immerse the barrels in boiling water for a few minutes to convert the rust.
https://www.brownells.co.uk/16-oz-EXPRESS-BLUE-1-MARK-LEE-575200016
Please note that it requires heating the part to a high temperature, There is a similar browing solution by Brownells , I used it once & it looked pretty awful. Worth bearing in mind that many shotgun barrels are soft soldered together & there is a severe risk of them coming apart if a heated bluing system is used. The caustic bluing techniques are used in mass production because they are fast & basically one shot & its done, Iirc the chemical solution is boiling at well over 150 degrees C .This is why English guns use slow rust bluing.
daedalusminos
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Gateros Plating sell a blackening kit at £25:
https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/metal-treatments/blackening/gp-cool-black-blacking-kit
I've had excellent results with their plating kits and superb customer service.
https://www.gaterosplating.co.uk/metal-treatments/blackening/gp-cool-black-blacking-kit
I've had excellent results with their plating kits and superb customer service.
Perry Owens
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The best cold blue I have found is from Laurel Mountain Forge.As with all bluing you need to highly polish the parts and degrease with acetone. It needs a high humidity atmosphere to work so I hang the barrel in the bathroom, heating on max and shower running. The treated parts come out brown as the product is intended for antique guns but if you want blue-black just immerse in boiling water for a few minutes. There's no UK retailer but you can purchase direct.
ronan
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Its says it needs to be 160-200 degrees fahrenheit to work. 200 degrees f is about 93 degrees c, not hot enough to boil water and safe with soft solder.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Kit ordered today from Frost.
Should be with me by Thursday, so I am told.
Should be with me by Thursday, so I am told.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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I do that my self.
But I need something were heat is not needed.
The Frost kit does tell you that the "blue" needs to be sealed, as it is not rust proof.
But I need something were heat is not needed.
The Frost kit does tell you that the "blue" needs to be sealed, as it is not rust proof.
DennisCA
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I have done all kinds of bluing. Hot bluing (caustic solution), cold bluing, heat bluing and rust bluing & carding. I've also done phosphating though that is not bluing.
The easiest and fastest is the cold blue. Then the hot caustic blue, rust bluing is the strongest but it takes the most work. It's probably easier to rig up at home though if you use the fume bluing method.
I think I will just use cold blue myself for most stuff for the ease of it, don't like keeping the caustic lye solution at hand and it's too wasteful to mix up and discard for one offs.
The easiest and fastest is the cold blue. Then the hot caustic blue, rust bluing is the strongest but it takes the most work. It's probably easier to rig up at home though if you use the fume bluing method.
I think I will just use cold blue myself for most stuff for the ease of it, don't like keeping the caustic lye solution at hand and it's too wasteful to mix up and discard for one offs.
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Over Size box arrived today.
All the weight at the bottom.
Lego figures for scale.
Inside was this.
Watch this space.
All the weight at the bottom.
Lego figures for scale.
Inside was this.
Watch this space.
See if it tells you to warm the parts to boiling and brush the blacking on which will form a rust. Wipe it off, heat back up and consequent numerous rustings to get desired satin depth. Called cold blacking not to be confused with cold black with the likes of Birchwood Casey crap just cosmetic at best.
8ob
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The_Yellow_Ardvark
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The kit looks ok.
Few improvements could be made.
Funnels, the containers are not designed to allow you to pour the liquids back into the bottles after use.
gloves, just a few to see what type they recommend, no details listed in the instructions.
Printed instructions, not some "N"th generation photo copy.
Containers what the lid the instructions say can be sealed actually fit and seal.
For the money spent the above improvements will go along way.
First set of items I am following the instructions, were readable.
The next back I will "experiment"
Few improvements could be made.
Funnels, the containers are not designed to allow you to pour the liquids back into the bottles after use.
gloves, just a few to see what type they recommend, no details listed in the instructions.
Printed instructions, not some "N"th generation photo copy.
Containers what the lid the instructions say can be sealed actually fit and seal.
For the money spent the above improvements will go along way.
First set of items I am following the instructions, were readable.
The next back I will "experiment"
The_Yellow_Ardvark
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Todays volunteers.
I volunteered them.
Bothe de rusted.
There is a 3 step procedure to follow in the kit.
Stage one.
Alkaline de-greasing. I had wiped them over with a de-greasing cloth before hand. as I know how dirty my play pen is.
Stage 2
The Blackening. almost immediate effect.
30 sec immersion and we have a result.
Stage 3
De-watering oil. This is meant to seal the blackening and prevent rusting.
Time will tell.
Drying off.
As you can see a nice deep black.
I volunteered them.
Bothe de rusted.
There is a 3 step procedure to follow in the kit.
Stage one.
Alkaline de-greasing. I had wiped them over with a de-greasing cloth before hand. as I know how dirty my play pen is.
Stage 2
The Blackening. almost immediate effect.
30 sec immersion and we have a result.
Stage 3
De-watering oil. This is meant to seal the blackening and prevent rusting.
Time will tell.
Drying off.
As you can see a nice deep black.
