Hardfacing

[Craig-SM]

After looking into the cost of them (none in the stores at work at all), thats what i decided on. Made up the anchor and hardened the shackle, quenching it in oil. Its a good thickness anyway so am confident in it, just the fact it's there.
The chain itself is either Chromoly or Chrome Vanadium one or the other and the links are 14mm thick so should be ok. If someones going to nick it, its going to happen, just wanted to make it as awkward as possible so acting as a deterrent if anything.

A 14mm chain is no deterrent as it will be cropped pretty quickly and offer no problem to an angle grinder.
If you want to keep your bike then invest in some proper security with an Almax or Pragmasis chain and ground anchor. I would also recommend a security pin if you can use one on your bike. Try not to have the chain on the floor to avoid freeze and hammer attacks.
My uncle lost his HD Fatboy to thieves who made easy work of the huge 25 tonne shackle he used for a ground anchor and with little noise so not to disturb the neighbours during the day. Due to this I upgraded my bike security to Almax chain, anti pinch pin and Torc ground anchors. With the bike tight up to the wall the chain is secured to the bike three times and to two separate ground anchors. Their is no space to attack with a meaningful size hammer, oversized for hand operated bolt croppers and even though an angle grinder would still get through them eventually the access to so is very restricted. Even with all the fixing points it only takes 5 minutes to secure or remove the chains with the use of bungee hooks to store the chain when not in use. Since then I have invested in CCTV due to an attempted house break in, sash jammers prevented access, and now a large Alaskan Malamute.

 

[TechnicAl]

I'm cheap and nobody nearby has hardfacing rods or are to expensive to me , because I'm hobbyist etc
So I use 308L rods and I quench the bead , for what I need it works well

Quenching 308L will either do nothing or soften it.....1050 oC quench is the annealing treatment

 

[Memmeddu]

Quenching 308L will either do nothing or soften it.....1050 oC quench is the annealing treatment

Ok so what is the correct procedure to harden stainless deposit?
I'm very interested about

 

[TechnicAl]

Ok so what is the correct procedure to harden stainless deposit?
I'm very interested about

You can only work harden stainless...no heat treatment will affect it....hit it with a hammer and you may harden it a bit.

 

[Richard.]

Ok so what is the correct procedure to harden stainless deposit?
I'm very interested about

You can work harden it as al said
Rubbing it with a file will do it as well but very little point as it doesn’t take much to anneal it back soft again.

 

[Memmeddu]

You can only work harden stainless...no heat treatment will affect it....hit it with a hammer and you may harden it a bit.

You can work harden it as al said
Rubbing it with a file will do it as well but very little point as it doesn’t take much to anneal it back soft again.

This open my mind because I was thinking that it work as for drilling it so more you heat it and harder it becomes

 

[slim_boy_fat]

Is there space aboard these bikes to secret a tracker? [genuine question - I don't do bikes ]

 

[Richard.]

This open my mind because I was thinking that it work as for drilling it so more you heat it and harder it becomes

When your drilling it, if your unlucky enough to let the drill bit rub and cause a hard spot yes it will produce heat and yes it will stay hard because your not generating enough heat to anneal it. However a simple portable blow torch applied to get it cherry red will take it back to its annealed soft drillable state so it’s not really a good consumable for hard facing as it’s very easily and quickly softened again.

 

[merryman]

Is there space aboard these bikes to secret a tracker? [genuine question

Yes, I am an "accredited" Tracker fitter, I only do Quads, and not many of them, because the subscription is expensive, but the training showed them being fitted to Motorcycles, and even portable generators. Our local thieves now steal bikes, hide them in the woods and if the owner doesn't find it them a few days, they assume no Tracker and come back for them.

You can only work harden stainless...no heat treatment will affect it

How do they harden stainless steel ball races?

 

[Richard.]

Yes, I am an "accredited" Tracker fitter, I only do Quads, and not many of them, because the subscription is expensive, but the training showed them being fitted to Motorcycles, and even portable generators. Our local thieves now steal bikes, hide them in the woods and if the owner doesn't find it them a few days, they assume no Tracker and come back for them.



How do they harden stainless steel ball races?

Are they not chrome nickel plated.

 

[BarrieJ]

Yes, I am an "accredited" Tracker fitter, I only do Quads, and not many of them, because the subscription is expensive, but the training showed them being fitted to Motorcycles, and even portable generators. Our local thieves now steal bikes, hide them in the woods and if the owner doesn't find it them a few days, they assume no Tracker and come back for them.



How do they harden stainless steel ball races?

My son has a copper friend who tells him pretty much the same thing, thieves steal bike/car park it up in a side street, if they're still there in a few days and haven't been found - then it'll be gone for good.

 

[highseas]

My son has a copper friend who tells him pretty much the same thing, thieves steal bike/car park it up in a side street, if they're still there in a few days and haven't been found - then it'll be gone for good.

yep weve found a old dumper and a 3cx down a very rural lane past some woods... spoke to the farmer who went and let tires down and parked 2 full muck spreaders at the back of them..the rang the police they took over a week to come and have a look and they had been stolen 15 miles away

 

[Kev@1969]

Just use old box cover over lock where you can only get hand and key in

 

[Munkul]

Ok so what is the correct procedure to harden stainless deposit?
I'm very interested about

Here:

http://www.stainless-steel-world.net/basicfacts/stainless-steel-and-its-families.html

Hardfacing rod has high chrome and relatively high carbon, which creates martensitic deposits, which are hard to start with and may be hardened further.

308/L rod contains high chrome, but ALSO high nickel, and low carbon, which creates austenitic deposits, which are soft, cannot be heat treated, but can be work hardened (i.e. with a rubbing drill bit as most of us have found out). Still nowhere near as hard as martensitic.

Basically you had half the picture, but not the full picture...

Hardened stainless ball bearings are usually martensitic stainless AFAIK, not sure about the races...

 

[TechnicAl]

The hardfacing Im talking about are the 25-30 Cr and about 5 Carbon.....Chromium Carbide.....you cant heat treat it.......its just hard and tough.....the welds usually crack on the surface (check cracking) which is good as the alternative is to crack under the deposit and then spall off.....a layer of this stuff is as good as it gets. It what they use to make wearplate.

 

[Memmeddu]

Here:

http://www.stainless-steel-world.net/basicfacts/stainless-steel-and-its-families.html

Hardfacing rod has high chrome and relatively high carbon, which creates martensitic deposits, which are hard to start with and may be hardened further.

308/L rod contains high chrome, but ALSO high nickel, and low carbon, which creates austenitic deposits, which are soft, cannot be heat treated, but can be work hardened (i.e. with a rubbing drill bit as most of us have found out). Still nowhere near as hard as martensitic.

Basically you had half the picture, but not the full picture...

Hardened stainless ball bearings are usually martensitic stainless AFAIK, not sure about the races...

Ok so now thinking little bit as an insane can do
What could happen if someone decides to put to electrodes in the electrode holder and melt them together to make something happen?
So 308+7018 for example

 

[TechnicAl]

Ok so now thinking little bit as an insane can do
What could happen if someone decides to put to electrodes in the electrode holder and melt them together to make something happen?
So 308+7018 for example

Instead of 18/8 you would end up with something like 9/4 ie diluted by half.......Like adding a pint of water to a pint of beer the alcohol content would half......at 9/4 you would have possibly a martensitic / ferritic structure so it could be harder than both the originals

 

[Richard.]

The hardfacing Im talking about are the 25-30 Cr and about 5 Carbon.....Chromium Carbide.....you cant heat treat it.......its just hard and tough.....the welds usually crack on the surface (check cracking) which is good as the alternative is to crack under the deposit and then spall off.....a layer of this stuff is as good as it gets. It what they use to make wearplate.

It is if you want to take a grinder to it.
Chromium carbide Wires that cross check are immensely brittle and a good clump with a hammer can soon take chunks out

 

[TechnicAl]

It is if you want to take a grinder to it.
Chromium carbide Wires that cross check are immensely brittle and a good clump with a hammer can soon take chunks out

I worked in a wearplate mill....you would be surprised how much work they will take......the plates are rolled into a can first........this is then covered in weld.....and then rolled flat again.....all without losing any of the CrC coating

 

[Richard.]

I worked in a wearplate mill....you would be surprised how much work they will take......the plates are rolled into a can first........this is then covered in weld.....and then rolled flat again.....all without losing any of the CrC coating

They’ll withstand rolling and flattening if the radius is half decent. Most places make it with 6m of plate (2x3m length) rolled, cladded then flattened.
The point I’m making is they don’t like an impact. I’ve been involved in the past with certain wear plates under different conditions and they are extremely good for abrasion but quite poor on high impact. I remember many years ago gouging off a load of CrC plate that was fitted to a huge bucket for mining in Norway as it was falling apart in seconds. It was all replaced with hard ox