Harrison 600 Milling Machine

[Carl Wilson]

Because in the real world where Joe Bloggs is screwing a bracket onto his milling machine, interchanging BSW and Unified makes not a jot of difference, the tolerances make sure of that.

I'm also in aviation and wouldn't dream of using the wrong thread system at work, at home in the workshop it's not always so easy to differentiate between 55° and 65° on a 1/8" diameter fastener...and some manufacturers have BOTH systems!!

You are getting all worked up about thread systems and paying no mind to the other critical part of fastener makeup...material. it's just as important for a fastener material to have the same physical properties as the one it is replacing but you've very little chance of finding that information most of the time.

You wouldn't have used soft solid rivets in place of hard and vice versa (unless of course your maintenance documentation allows for such)

I can categorically promise you I'm not getting "all worked up" about thread systems. "In the real world" I'm currently stuck in the US and I cannot get back home to the UK where my family is, in the middle of this unmitigated hell we are all currently living through. So fasteners are the least of my problems.

I've been through much worse though. So I'm sure it will turn out fine in the end.

 

[Carl Wilson]

This os my green lady.
Made for Germany.

I don't have this handle for the motor clutch.

Really nice. My one doesn't have the clutch either. It was an option. The Harrison mills used L5 lathe mechanical parts and I'm told it is possible to retrofit a clutch from a Harrison L5 lathe to these machines. I do not know how true or otherwise that is.

The red locking handles look to be a modification; the originals aren't like that. Have you got the overam support and arbor to enable you to do horizontal milling?

 

[grim_d]

I've been through much worse though. So I'm sure it will turn out fine in the end.

Life will go on but will be far from fine, but it was far from fine beforehand. Humanity once again embarrassing itself to the rest of the universe.

 

[Carl Wilson]

It depends what your definition of fine is. Life has already taken from me the most precious thing anyone can lose. So anything else is fine by me.

 

[grim_d]

My definition of fine is far different to the accepted norm we have found ourselves in. Which will be far different to that of 100 years ago.

Unfortunately nobody gets through unscathed. You are not alone.

Enough thread derailment.

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

Really nice. My one doesn't have the clutch either. It was an option. The Harrison mills used L5 lathe mechanical parts and I'm told it is possible to retrofit a clutch from a Harrison L5 lathe to these machines. I do not know how true or otherwise that is.

The red locking handles look to be a modification; the originals aren't like that. Have you got the overam support and arbor to enable you to do horizontal milling?

Hi Carl,
Yes I can do both varation of milling. ...just need the tools for that.
But it is just a metter of time.
I will have a look for the right handles.
Carl I have another question. Just in case any sealing or besrings are gone, are they in metric or inch to?
Cheers
Alex

 

[Carl Wilson]

Bit of a mixture. Some I measured came out to exact metric dimensions. Others were clearly inch. I had no trouble getting new ones.

Most bearing shops online seem to specify the bearings they sell in metric dimensions regardless. A lot of them have an online search where you can put in the dimensions you have and a list of suitable bearings comes up.

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

Hi Carl,

thanks Mate.

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

Hi Carl,

I hope you are well. Yesterday I had a close look on my miller again. I did lubricate the machine and now the z-spindle and the linked knee is running more smoothly.


But I am still thinking to dismantle the x-table, Y-table and the knee for a proper maintenance and cleaning. I had a look at the spare part drawing. Some items are missing there.

My question is, how can I adjust the knee guiding? On my miller I have three screws either side of the knee. But these are not simple once. I can see a middle bolt with a hexagon socket, but there is a second fixing element there. It looks like a threaded ring with a slot. On the back side of the dove tail I have small ledges installed. I am guessing that the ring is just to fix the bolt in postion.

What is on your machine used?

I have attached a photo showing that bolts and the spare part drawing as well.


Cheers
Alex

 

[Carl Wilson]

Hello Alex,

I'm pleased to know that lubricating your z axis improved it.

I'm afraid I can't be of much help to you in adjusting the z axis guides. I haven't got as far as taking that apart yet. And yours looks different to what I have on mine. I'm not near my machine so I can't look to check.

There is a member on here who has done it and advised me on my thread. I will find his name and post it here.

Carl.

 

[Carl Wilson]

Hello Alex,

@Mark Davison is the chap who advised me on adjusting the z axis gibs. He should be able to help.

Carl.

 

[Mark Davison]

I'd think twice before removing the knee!! It is not easy to adjust. As is my way with most things the first thing I did was strip my machine down to parts, to clean it, as you are contemplating. I thought it was too tight, in hindsight I'm not sure it was. I dont regret removing it as the gears for the vertical screw were caked in gunk, the thrust bearing needed replacing and the knee casting was full of coolant (I should have drilled a drain hole at the bottom).

With 'normal' gibs you can feel whilst adjusting. With these you have to unbolt the back plates to adjust, and as a result there is nothing to 'feel'. You then bolt the back plates back up and see what it feels like. Very hit and miss.

I tried using clamps and pry bars to put pressure on the back plates when unbolted in an attempt to feel when the adjuster contacted the back plate. I had some success doing this to find a starting point. I then mounted a dti and measured the movement in the table. Problem is trying to get the middle one right as the top and the bottom ones are the only ones that affect the measurement. A better way may be to measure everything and set the adjusters on the bench before fitting, but you'd need to compensate for the compression force on the adjusters that comes from bolting the back plates on.

I'd be interested to hear how you get on.

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

Thanks Carl for your help. It sounds tricy.

I did not start to dismantle it. I don't have time yet.
But my be will will leave the knee on and just clean the z-gear.

I keep you posted.
Cheers
Alex

 

[Dieselman 63]

I suspect that the majority of fasteners will be BSW (Whitworth), BSF or UNF. I quite merrily substitute the same-pitch BSW and UNC fasteners if I need to.

Whilst they are not common in the UK, they are not difficult to find. If you need any just shout and I'm sure someone will oblige.

Made in 1980 is might even have metric bolts.

My 1975 Colchester is all imperial BSW despite being a metric machine, and my power hacksaw has all UNC fittings. Old machines are a funny old world!

 

[grim_d]

My 1975 Colchester is all imperial BSW despite being a metric machine, and my power hacksaw has all UNC fittings. Old machines are a funny old world!

I've always assumed that they wouldn't change all the fasteners just because a machine had gone metric.

My Harrison l5a was made just before things went all metric with the 140, it has metric dials but an imperial lead screw, the fasteners are all imperial.

I suspected @doubleboost 140, an all metric machine, will still have imperial fasteners holding it together?

 

[doubleboost]

I've always assumed that they wouldn't change all the fasteners just because a machine had gone metric.

My Harrison l5a was made just before things went all metric with the 140, it has metric dials but an imperial lead screw, the fasteners are all imperial.

I suspected @doubleboost 140, an all metric machine, will still have imperial fasteners holding it together?

All the nuts and bolts are imperial UNC

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

Hi all,

the time is running, and it took a little while to move forward on my milling overhaul. But now I am nearly finished with.

I did clean up all guides and adjust it. I replaced missing bolts and the electrical equipment partly. And finally, I did paint it in a fresh new RAL6011.


This was the original colour on that machine.

Cheers
Alex

 

[Guzzi Fuzzi]

...sorry I did upload the pictures twice...

One question I have. I would like to change the oil. On the main gear it is not a problem, I can see the level in the inspection glass. But I can't see the level on the vertical head because of the dirty glasses. Does anybody know the amount of oil which is needed for the vertical head and the offset gear on the head?

Cheers
Alex

 

[daleyd]

What a cracking job you’ve done there

 

[slim_boy_fat]

I can't help with the oil question, but fully agree with what dale says ^^