Enthusiasts for flue liners seem to think that burning logs is an exact science. It isn't, on a windy day you may get far more draw, wind direction and where your chimney is in relation to other higher buildings and trees, makes a big difference on chimney draw, I would guess at far more difference than how wide your chimney is. As others have pointed out, log size, how dry it is and type of wood, all contribute to the speed of burn, also where you have the air control set. I would guess those who go for "all night burns" will get more soot, but most people let the fire go out when they go to bed, and as I wrote before, burning wood seems to make far less soot than the open coal fire did.
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DennisCA
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I would fit a stove that was sized to work with the chimney flue size. A 450x450mm sized chimney flue sounds very large, unusually so, in that case I would probably have to reconsider? I don't think you'd find that on a brick chimney here, they're more likely to be built to have multiple smoke passages of sizes around 200mm -ish (based on brick size). Each fireplace would be connected to it's own channel.
I wouldn't fit a liner because the house wasn't build for that in mind and the chimney is meant to be warmed to some degree. So you are altering the function of the house and making the chimney colder. This has led to mold issues when it wasn't compensated for in the past. At least in a finnish house. There's also cost and longevity, metal liners don't last as long. I would only fit one if it was needed like the chimney is in bad shape. Ideally I'd rebuild the chimney.
Cold chimney mass hasn't really been a problem if the house uses firewood to actually get heat even with typical finnish masonry heaters that have a low flue gas temp. If it's only occasionally heated for recreational purposes then it might be a different issue.
Blobber
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When we fitted our burner we just followed the manufacturers recommendations which was a 6 inch liner, our chimney was in a bit of a poor state and massive, the liner was about 4.5mtrs long and it took 7 big bags of vermiculite to back fill the chimney, I dont think I would have wanted to run the burner without a liner as my understanding would be the flue gasses would have been too lower temperature? anyhow it works great and were warm!
Erie Fred
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Buy this, install camera to xmit fire "View" into house, put properly sized monitor in old hearth/fireplace:
en.wikipedia.org
Outdoor wood-fired boiler - Wikipedia
gaz1
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really both regulations are covered by the same regs
check the chimney is .....
and as quoted in the above article fit a liner something that ive been saying all along
from your above quote
You also appear to be suggesting lining Leaking chimneys- that is very dangerous advice my friend. If in doubt at all get a qualified pro in to inspect the chimney, your chosen stove and make recommendations.
In any case do what you will this is my advice based on 20 years of being a chartered construction professional and also fitting 2x in my own home successfully.
We have a Clearview Pioneer 400, it's and amazing stove. It will run 24/7 easily without having to put coal/coke in and the glass stays clear if you have decent wood. I can light it with a decent dry log and some cardboard. They aren't cheap but I would buy another tomorrow. Woodburners are great but it gets old pretty quick if you have no control and have to re-light it every day.
JOEPRO
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Really?
It thought you picked up my post and were disagreeing about any need fit a liner citing the limited cases below:
We fitted a secondhand charnwood stove about ten years ago. We had a liner fitted because the old yellow stock chimney was leaky. We had the liner & stove installed by a Hetas installer so got it signed off ok. Had to put two vents into the room from underfloor. Most installers wont touch old gear as its more money for them to sell you a new stove.
Its worth remembering that if you havent had it signed off properly your house insurance will be worth nowt if it burns the house down!
Its worth remembering that if you havent had it signed off properly your house insurance will be worth nowt if it burns the house down!
I didn't about the house insurance. I might as well cancel that as its invalid and save myself £100.
cheb
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Is the house insurance thing as true as them not paying out if you don't have an valid MOT test. I fitted a stove when I rebuilt the house 20 years ago and the council inspector who signed the house off, plumbing, electrics, gas etc didn't even mention the stove. Nor did he suck his teeth and mutter about my installing all the services despite having no qualifications in any of them. Neither have any insurance companies ever asked if there's a stove or open fire in the building.
This place is very good at answering questions, and even better about over complicating things to the nth degree.
This place is very good at answering questions, and even better about over complicating things to the nth degree.
Gritineye
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Ditto, also fitted a few Clearviews for clients, not registered installer, just signed off by BC.
I've got three of those so what with the DIY fitted woodburner the house insurance is definitely void.I trust you all have Building Control sign off for your oil tanks too as your supposed too
James1979
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For what it’s worth, NFU just asked what means of heating I used.
Told them. They provided a quote. I accepted and that was that.
Didn’t tell then I’d illegally fitted it myself
JOEPRO
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Didn’t tell then I’d illegally fitted it myself
That was a minor detail!!
But did they even ask who fitted it?
James1979
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Nope.That was a minor detail!!
But did they even ask who fitted it?
When I moved in we had electric heating. On renewal last year she said has anything changed? I said yes - wood stove.
Ok - here’s the price….
addjunkie
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They quote, you pay, whopee….great cover then after a fire, if the investigation shows incorrectly installed, faulty wiring etc. they dont pay. So really it's a gamble, if your installation is un approved you open the door to them not paying unless you can prove competency and it was correct.For what it’s worth, NFU just asked what means of heating I used.
Told them. They provided a quote. I accepted and that was that.
Didn’t tell then I’d illegally fitted it myself
NFU wouldnt cover my barn conversions until they were signed off by building control, except under a project policy. Even though the original buildings were covered on my existing NFU policy
James1979
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I suppose it was a bit unfair of me not to post that building control signed it off. The point was that the insurance didn’t ask or care who had fitted it.
I took loads of photos during the install for the inspector in case he wanted to see them but he wasn’t bothered. Can’t bloody win!
Plan A was for the HETAS chap my mother used to sign it off as he guided me through it, along with the link I posted. He hadn’t been able to get over so just said I may as well get BC in to do it. Can’t remember what it cost. Wasn’t a lot.
addjunkie
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My building control guy was the young I need a piece of paper mentality. Could have built the place with cheese as long as it had bits of paper. The boss who came to sign it off, demonstrated far more common sense, he accepted my class 1 Chief Engineers ticket as good enough to connect a new oil tank to an oil fired boiler. As the heating engineer who did the heating system wasnt OFTEC only gas safe. All madness really!I suppose it was a bit unfair of me not to post that building control signed it off. The point was that the insurance didn’t ask or care who had fitted it.
I took loads of photos during the install for the inspector in case he wanted to see them but he wasn’t bothered. Can’t bloody win!
Plan A was for the HETAS chap my mother used to sign it off as he guided me through it, along with the link I posted. He hadn’t been able to get over so just said I may as well get BC in to do it. Can’t remember what it cost. Wasn’t a lot.
