- Thread starter Kram
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dobbslc
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I think pushing or pulling on the door while trying to unlock it both with the key/remote or the rods might get you in but DON'T shut the bloody door again.
Moral of the story is if you know you have a **** lock get a new one and fit that before all this happens.
Moral of the story is if you know you have a **** lock get a new one and fit that before all this happens.
gaz1
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from what i can see theres only 2 main points that hold that lock together
now before i damage the outside door panel id rather drill the internal panel with the seat laid right back aiming for those 2 mechanism holders close to the lock
the door lock looks to be just plastic even a good melting with a blow lamp would melt alot of that plastic
now before i damage the outside door panel id rather drill the internal panel with the seat laid right back aiming for those 2 mechanism holders close to the lock
the door lock looks to be just plastic even a good melting with a blow lamp would melt alot of that plastic
Kram
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I have already said that. Im happy to drill the inner door skin from the inside, it will never be visible.
Incorrect. The moral is reassemble correctly! The lock functioned well before hand. I believe it was jamming the rod on the anti theft plate that has done the damage and chances are, it would have happened anyway if I'd have bought a new lock unit!
There is a second problem although minor and unrelated (incorrect closing of boot I think, my dad did it..). I think my boot lock has lost its position as the button on the boot no longer unlocks it (boot is always locked when car unlocked). So now, the only way to open boot is the button on the fob that pops it up. Theres no button inside the car either.
Tried that, hesitant to be more forceful as if the latch is locked it could bend the B pillar.
Incorrect. The moral is reassemble correctly! The lock functioned well before hand. I believe it was jamming the rod on the anti theft plate that has done the damage and chances are, it would have happened anyway if I'd have bought a new lock unit!
There is a second problem although minor and unrelated (incorrect closing of boot I think, my dad did it..). I think my boot lock has lost its position as the button on the boot no longer unlocks it (boot is always locked when car unlocked). So now, the only way to open boot is the button on the fob that pops it up. Theres no button inside the car either.
The mechanicals are the same derived from the 626 and I did read the long version but judging by the posts it wasn't long enough e.g which car and confused some, thankfully you have sent us more information and more importantly pics.
Kram
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Almost a month! Its been a great annoyance having to jump over the passenger side. I bought a spare lock and would have done this earlier had I found the original YT video I saw, which shows the insides.
Today found another video and heres a couple stills from it. Unlocked:
Locked. Thats essentially the difference between the two states. Its not locked in what I consider the proper meaning of the word - the lever being unable to move, rather than the other bit just being out of position and missing the catch.
When locked, the lever is moved to the right. Pulling the handle lifts the lever, but it doesnt hit the metal release lever. If the lever is pushed to the left and raised with the handle, it will release the door catch.
I confirmed this on my spare lock by shining a light through it, this told me where I needed to attack to open the door.
The issue with my lock, I hoped, was the lever not moving left and right, some other part of the mechanism was bad.
I took the cover off spare lock and confirmed that pushing the metal tab would be effective. You can see some of the lever and tab.
I then tried to work out how to access the release tab or the lever. 35mm from the bottom of black connector and as close as I could to the trim, 20mm holesaw.
Had to snip the handle wire, luckily the spare lock came with its own cables and interior handle. Shining a light shows the lever in the locked position.
And that is the lever. I bent a peice of 3mm steel rod to push it with. Pulling the lever and pushing kn the door had it open!
Quite happy now, I thought the difficult bit was done. It was a pain getting it reassembled as I forgot a block of foam, then the trim clips kept falling off. Finally I have it reassembled.
With one missing screw for the armrest bolt and I tried, but the door open bulb holder/wire has fallen somewhere inside the trim. Likely to rattle at every opertunity, I imagine.
Today found another video and heres a couple stills from it. Unlocked:
Locked. Thats essentially the difference between the two states. Its not locked in what I consider the proper meaning of the word - the lever being unable to move, rather than the other bit just being out of position and missing the catch.
When locked, the lever is moved to the right. Pulling the handle lifts the lever, but it doesnt hit the metal release lever. If the lever is pushed to the left and raised with the handle, it will release the door catch.
I confirmed this on my spare lock by shining a light through it, this told me where I needed to attack to open the door.
The issue with my lock, I hoped, was the lever not moving left and right, some other part of the mechanism was bad.
I took the cover off spare lock and confirmed that pushing the metal tab would be effective. You can see some of the lever and tab.
I then tried to work out how to access the release tab or the lever. 35mm from the bottom of black connector and as close as I could to the trim, 20mm holesaw.
Had to snip the handle wire, luckily the spare lock came with its own cables and interior handle. Shining a light shows the lever in the locked position.
And that is the lever. I bent a peice of 3mm steel rod to push it with. Pulling the lever and pushing kn the door had it open!
Quite happy now, I thought the difficult bit was done. It was a pain getting it reassembled as I forgot a block of foam, then the trim clips kept falling off. Finally I have it reassembled.
With one missing screw for the armrest bolt and I tried, but the door open bulb holder/wire has fallen somewhere inside the trim. Likely to rattle at every opertunity, I imagine.
Kram
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Is that a common problem? Not one I've heard about. Shes only at 38k miles so hopefully a lot of life left!
MetalMonkey
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It worked for Mr. beanI think I’d hack the lock out and fit a simple garden gate bolt lock on the outside, if I’d had to go through all that.
pedrobedro
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Stick a grommet in the hole to make it look legit
Kram
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Nothing of the sort was applied and as far as I care that trim panel is never coming off again. Unlikely the inner skin will significantly rust I think and if it does, before the car is scrap, I'm happy to do some welding or buy a new door.
Same for the grommet. Now if you both posted a few days in advance Id have sorted that properly!
I did consider tack welding a small disc over it but I dislike welding to vehicles, I'd likely kill the computers or something expensive.
Thanks!
Nomad
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Gaffa tape is fine to cover that type of hole, at least it will keep any water where it should be if the window seals fail in the future... 
I'd recommend black as silver might look odd. A shame they don't make a wider choice of colours.
A mate used silver to patch up a crack on his black motorcycle fairing, I never did get a good explanation why he didn't use black that would have been invisible from 6ft away..
I'd recommend black as silver might look odd. A shame they don't make a wider choice of colours.
A mate used silver to patch up a crack on his black motorcycle fairing, I never did get a good explanation why he didn't use black that would have been invisible from 6ft away..
This thread made me think of one of the brain cell challenged techs I work beside.
Van side door not unlocking, so he smashed the lock to get it unlocked, which was fair enough as there's no other way to get them open if the lock fails.
Ordered a new lock.
Fitted the new lock.
Shut the door.
Locked the van.
Turned out the lock wasn't the problem.
Van side door not unlocking, so he smashed the lock to get it unlocked, which was fair enough as there's no other way to get them open if the lock fails.
Ordered a new lock.
Fitted the new lock.
Shut the door.
Locked the van.
Turned out the lock wasn't the problem.
Gaffa tape is fine to cover that type of hole, at least it will keep any water where it should be if the window seals fail in the future...
I'd recommend black as silver might look odd. A shame they don't make a wider choice of colours.
They do..lol
