Help pleasssse

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I would start with that stray wire in your last photo.

Yup.

Found here
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/transmig-140-down-on-power.30225/

 

[sarahweld]

I get this with tester nothing on l3 if I push the green button in the welder sounds on

 

[sarahweld]

Photos with where the THING has blown off

 

[sarahweld]

Yup.
View attachment 180708
Found here
https://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/threads/transmig-140-down-on-power.30225/

That's it what is,that called

 

[eLuSiVeMiTe]

I get this with tester nothing on l3 if I push the green button in the welder sounds on

Need something like this check there Rated for mains
https://www.toolstation.com/tis-258...MIs7rj1cDI4gIV55XtCh0EtA1_EAQYASABEgLaYvD_BwE

Never trusted those pens

 

[sarahweld]

I have a,multimeter I just wanted to see if I'm getting power the easy safe way before sticking my ends in...
If I press the green bit in on that block the machine goes louder x

So I'm getting power to the on off switch.then power to l1 and l2 .power to the coils ..

I'm not getting the fan coming on the trigger isn't working if I press in on the front of the l1 and l2 block thing the welder hums twice as loud.. But still no difference.. Why did it work perfectly up until yesterday and the only visual thing is that yellow bit .. What exactly does that do..
How much would it cost to put in a shop to be fixed.. I do have my filcord which I love using anyway.but its nice to have a back up.
With the amount of welding that I do I need a back up and would prefer to use the murex all the time.having my filcord as my back up. I'm unhappy with not being able to fix it myself lol. I do like that feeling of fixing something potentionally that's going to cost £100's in a shop

 

[gaz1]

thats 2 capacitors

to further this post

rifa pme 260 ab 0.22uf

PME 260 General Purpose Metallized Paper Capacitor PME 260 General Purpose AC/DC Capacitor · , 695-2-2 IEC 68-2-3 Test Ca +40°C and 90 - 95% R.H.

https://www.datasheetarchive.com/RIFA PME 260-datasheet.html

rifa metal caps was renowned for failure

 

[sarahweld]

thats 2 capacitors

to further this post

rifa pme 260 ab 0.22uf

PME 260 General Purpose Metallized Paper Capacitor PME 260 General Purpose AC/DC Capacitor · , 695-2-2 IEC 68-2-3 Test Ca +40°C and 90 - 95% R.H.

https://www.datasheetarchive.com/RIFA PME 260-datasheet.html

rifa metal caps was renowned for failure

I've just entered the world of blonde with that link.... I'm like I need help what am I looking for on that..
Gaz is that a link to that yellow thing x

 

[sarahweld]

Oh I see now yes its a link to the part thank you gaz1 xx

 

[sarahweld]

I cant find a 260 on ebay.. I can only find 261 0.22uf will these be the same .
I will change both and will it work then do these cause the fan and trigger not to work if not..what about the semi conductors on the pcb. I'm seeing that these go also a trigger relay I've had a pm saying ... Gently take the cover off and clean the contacts and check the pcb for dry joints . Luckily I can use a soldering iron so might re do all the joints.but honestly if the welder was working yesterday morning am I just wasting my time.. Shall I go to my local electrics shop and buy a new l1 l2 switch.. I can see a eliminating process till I hit the jackpot and £££££'s spent.. If it had no sentimental link to me id bin it and buy a new up go date boc or better

 

[Wozzaaah]

You have a missing component Sarah, there’s absolutely no point in doing any other fault-finding until you’ve replaced it.
You will quite likely find that’s all that’s wrong with it, if not then at least you know the fault lies elsewhere.

 

[Wozzaaah]

Would have been more helpful if whoever sent you the PM offering advice had replied to the thread instead.

 

[MattH]

You have a missing component Sarah, there’s absolutely no point in doing any other fault-finding until you’ve replaced it.
You will quite likely find that’s all that’s wrong with it, if not then at least you know the fault lies elsewhere.

I disagree, you are mixing up cause and effect. That cap did not blow up of its own accord (there was a short through it) and it would not be causing a complete lack of power to the unit.
If it is replaced before fault finding the unit then it will just blow again.

Start at the beginning and work through the unit until something incorrect is found.

 

[sarahweld]

You have a missing component Sarah, there’s absolutely no point in doing any other fault-finding until you’ve replaced it.
You will quite likely find that’s all that’s wrong with it, if not then at least you know the fault lies elsewhere.

Hi thanks yes I think I'm just going to buy the rifa pme component first. I'm Just hoping that the fault I that. As I am getting power to the welder. Also with it working yesterday I cant see everything going. Although I'm curious as to know why the rifa blew in the first place. I weld a lot of custom racking. Also have restoration cars brought to me and alike. So the welder does get a lot of hammer.would this eventually lead to the rifa melting cracking and blowing apart or will there be a more sinister fault that will blow them as soon as I fit them. Maybe I should buy a bag of 10 lol .. There may be trouble ahead

 

[sarahweld]

I disagree, you are mixing up cause and effect. That cap did not blow up of its own accord (there was a short through it) and it would not be causing a complete lack of power to the unit.
If it is replaced before fault finding the unit then it will just blow again.

Start at the beginning and work through the unit until something incorrect is found.

You got there first with " WHAT BLEW THE RIFA " where should I start looking do you think.. Like I say the murex blew as I began welding I pressed the trigger and it shut down before weld begun..
I dont mind spending a few hours with a meter.
Im going to do a bit of reading first as I know how to use a meter as what function does what. I just don't know what component should be reading what. Such as how to test a semi conductor also resistence etc

 

[brightspark]

I get this with tester nothing on l3 if I push the green button in the welder sounds on

I wouldn't rely on results testing with one of those there only a rough indicator. confirm power with a cheapo multimeter for voltage if you haven't one already

 

[sarahweld]

I dont mind any help though lol.

 

[sarahweld]

I wouldn't rely on results testing with one of those there only a rough indicator. confirm power with a cheapo multimeter for voltage if you haven't one already

I dont use that for testing components .i use it to see if there is power from the plug to the device. And around places there should be power. If I know there's power to places I will start with the multi tester. But still learning how to use one. so the bleeper just helps in little ways.

 

[MattH]

Think of the unit as two separate circuits. One is the main welding power cct.

Power comes in, is controller via the main contactor, then goes to the main transformer, from this to the rectification diodes and the output smoothing caps and then on to the torch.

The second cct is the control circuit, this is powered by the smaller transformer and controls the wire speed and energises the main contactor when the trigger is pulled.
Power is controlled via the switches that select different tappings on the main power transformer (this is basic switching nothing more).

If you push in the main contactor you will be energising the torch.
So a simple test is to hook a meter to the torch and then push the contactor in. If you get welding voltage then you know that the main power cct is working and the issue is in the control cct. Or visa versa.

 

[sarahweld]

On the moeller switch what is l3 used for and when should it be live. Is it like a light switch say.. When I press the trigger does this send a signal down to the moeller to say stay in till I unpress the trigger. I'm asking thinking if I manually press it in myself. Should my wire feed start to work and fan as it dosnt ????