View attachment 190228
An example.
The sheet is building site sheet, wood was ripped down from pallets. Screws saved from the packing creates, psu battery charger car boot.[/QUOTE
Don't take this the wrongway, but I wonder what you would say if you saw someone at one of the many sites you frequent having a setup like that?
Or even one of the know it alls at your MIS?
I accept it's not "work" but some of the unfortunates you delight in belittling probably don't know any better, where as, you know everything.
Pot and kettle springs to mind.
Having said that it's probably exactly what I would do.
View attachment 190228
An example.
The sheet is building site sheet, wood was ripped down from pallets. Screws saved from the packing creates, psu battery charger car boot.
Seriously, you need to re-assess your H&S standards, that charger is so close to falling into that bath.....
Or are you winding us all up?
I've got a single pan induction hob that I want to use for brewing stuff up before electroplating, but most stainless pan's I've seen say not suitable for use with induction hobs? Any ideas on that? Obviously if I had a free one I'd just find out the easy way.
View attachment 190228
The sheet is building site sheet, wood was ripped down from pallets. Screws saved from the packing creates, psu battery charger car boot.
I've used both and the citric acid was a revelation
I don't use heat (I'm in no rush) just a 25l jar with the top cut off sitting outside.
It been great for tube and the like.
@Parm has said it doesn't etch the steel.
I thought it did as it left a lovely grippy finish for painting but it might have been just exposing a grit blast finish under the surface rust.
Has anybody had similat experiences?
I need to experiment a bit more.
Only difference I do to what has been said on here is, I use liquid citric acid. It came in a 25l container. It seems pretty concentrated and I didn't dilute it too much.
Maybe it's too strong but boy does it work.
Certainly cuts down on the amount of grit blasting I need to do.
I put a really rusted scrap steel bar in a couple of days ago, (half in half out)
I don't know how it's turned out but I'll post a photo when I get back home at the weekend
TYA, I am noticing a pattern emerging in your photos. Mains powered power supplies precariously balanced just above tanks of liquid, how often does one fall in?
I've used both and the citric acid was a revelation
I don't use heat (I'm in no rush) just a 25l jar with the top cut off sitting outside.
It been great for tube and the like.
@Parm has said it doesn't etch the steel.
I thought it did as it left a lovely grippy finish for painting but it might have been just exposing a grit blast finish under the surface rust.
Has anybody had similat experiences?
I need to experiment a bit more.
Only difference I do to what has been said on here is, I use liquid citric acid. It came in a 25l container. It seems pretty concentrated and I didn't dilute it too much.
Maybe it's too strong but boy does it work.
Certainly cuts down on the amount of grit blasting I need to do.
I put a really rusted scrap steel bar in a couple of days ago, (half in half out)
I don't know how it's turned out but I'll post a photo when I get back home at the weekend
That and a bigger home made tank was used to clean a Land Rover 88 chassis.