Don’t say that. I need this to work all the time without too much fussEnjoy the sweet feeling of success - while it lasts!!
On the cables I found the under bed cables weren’t routed correctly. At assembly I corrected this by dismantling a few things at the bottom and rerouting the bundle of cables.It would appear that the Z axis switch needs to be higher. Even at factory setting, the bed fouls on the rear servo and the bed’s heater wiring. I have set my switch as follows:
View attachment 302846
you can’t really see the problem in the photo, but get your eyes to that level and run the bed back and forth.
View attachment 302848
Agreed, they are very clear on assembly but could be better on set up, calibration and initial useThe instructions are a bit vague, the picture shows the bottom of the switch mount and the bottom of the beam it connects to, flush. This gives lots of room to move the switch down later.
I put the switch at its lowest position and that was too low and the bed hit the nozzle.
There should be a note on adjusting it really, it has a big impact on print adhesion.
If you move the homing switch higher then you might find that you need to pack out the springs with washers to maintain spring pressure. I moved mine lower a little by twisting off the stop lug with a pair of pliers.
That then causes the bed to foul the rear servo, so I had to go the other way.
Some craft glue spread on the bed before heating seems to be helping my adhesion issue.
If your bed is hitting the y-axis stepper you have the limit switch set too far back. Move it forwards.
It is some distance. Also the heating element wiring is a long resined lump underneath, that fouls too if the Z limit is lowered.